Dyno Results: Stage 1 vs. Stage 0 Mail In Xflash
Originally Posted by Jorge T
it looks fine the wide angle lens makes it look otherwise...
I looked again, the ribs of the belt dont line up relative to the notch on the v/c for the intake cam relative to the white paint mark.....I do wear glasses, maybe I need a new pair!?
Besides, the other photo showing the tdc mark for the crank, the mark is slightly before tdc, so if you just slightly rotated the crank & put it on tdc, the ex mark will line up perfectly & the int will be advanced.
I thought the white marks are referencing the "straigh-up" tooth location of the gear, despite where you set the adjustability aspect of the cam.
Good luck with your results
Last edited by Aby@MIL.SPEC; May 9, 2005 at 10:45 AM.
By retarding both cams by 5 degrees you will induce more lag and a loss of low end torque. The benefit? Improved top end, which you have. There is no way to make a cam flow more any other way than by changing the grind, but what you can do is optimize that grind for power in a certain rev range. By installing the cam gears on the stock cams at -5/-5 that's exactly what you've done.
SuperHatch,
I understand exactly about the top end with the cam gears. It's the boost graph that is bothering me. Look at it on the first page. Even if I am loosing bottom end the boost should still hit at 3500rpm. It is hitting at 4000rpm.
I understand exactly about the top end with the cam gears. It's the boost graph that is bothering me. Look at it on the first page. Even if I am loosing bottom end the boost should still hit at 3500rpm. It is hitting at 4000rpm.
Did you even see the picture with the lines I posted???


Originally Posted by WOT
?? If the illusion is due to the camera lense, why doesnt the ex cam look advanced, since the photo looks to be taken in the middle of the 2 cams?
I looked again, the ribs of the belt dont line up relative to the notch on the v/c for the intake cam relative to the white paint mark.....I do wear glasses, maybe I need a new pair!?
Besides, the other photo showing the tdc mark for the crank, the mark is slightly before tdc, so if you just slightly rotated the crank & put it on tdc, the ex mark will line up perfectly & the int will be advanced.
I thought the white marks are referencing the "straigh-up" tooth location of the gear, despite where you set the adjustability aspect of the cam.
Good luck with your results
I looked again, the ribs of the belt dont line up relative to the notch on the v/c for the intake cam relative to the white paint mark.....I do wear glasses, maybe I need a new pair!?
Besides, the other photo showing the tdc mark for the crank, the mark is slightly before tdc, so if you just slightly rotated the crank & put it on tdc, the ex mark will line up perfectly & the int will be advanced.
I thought the white marks are referencing the "straigh-up" tooth location of the gear, despite where you set the adjustability aspect of the cam.
Good luck with your results
I guess you are right. I went back to the dyno shop and no dice. Same ramp up rates and load. I'd have to say that this kinda sucks to lose 500rpm of spool up. I guess I will have to get cams and a 10.5 hotside to get more low end back and more top end.
What I really want is a set-up that hits full boost at 3000rpm and pulls strong to 7500rpm. What do I need to add to get this? Anybody?? Shiv?? Vishnu???
What I really want is a set-up that hits full boost at 3000rpm and pulls strong to 7500rpm. What do I need to add to get this? Anybody?? Shiv?? Vishnu???
Originally Posted by SuperHatch
I see that, the cam timing won't only effect where the powerband is, but it will also effect where the turbo spools, hence why you have later spoolup.
- Steve
- Steve
I never personally experienced the loss of spoolup that you have, because I added cams and gears at the same time. Cams alone will get you back to where you were with your stock spoolup and increase your top end pull. The stock 16G will become very inefficient at high boost levels and high RPMs, however it will still make boost at 7500RPMs.
What I would suggest is the 10.5 hotside, or even an entire TME turbo, cams (272s or 280s), and a new custom tune. I have a stock 03 turbo with a 10.5 hotside and very minimal mods. My car pulls very well to 7500RPMs and has the same spool as stock if not better.
- Steve
What I would suggest is the 10.5 hotside, or even an entire TME turbo, cams (272s or 280s), and a new custom tune. I have a stock 03 turbo with a 10.5 hotside and very minimal mods. My car pulls very well to 7500RPMs and has the same spool as stock if not better.
- Steve
Shiv, wouldn't that essentially put him at a Stage 0+ instead of a stage 1? Or are you just making sure that the cam gears are indeed the cause of the lost spoolup and not another problem like the turbo, etc.?
- Steve
- Steve
Originally Posted by Jorge T
Did you even see the picture with the lines I posted???
Big deal, you drew 2 lines, both that were drawn @ 2 different angles. Doesnt prove a thing.
Keep up the good work
Do as shiv suggested above, by putting the timing back to "0" & take your car for a spin.
Last edited by Aby@MIL.SPEC; May 10, 2005 at 12:58 PM.
You either have horrible visualization skills and don't realize that those lines are drawn exactly where they should be, or you just don't want to admit someone else is right. The lines are fine, his cams are set fine...
- Steve
- Steve
Shiv,
I would be willing to do that. It will cost me another $125 at least.
That is what DynoComp suggested I do to check. Will the mail in stage 1 xflash tune be ok with the cam gears to 0? Also, what mark do I set the cam gears to?
I would be willing to do that. It will cost me another $125 at least.
That is what DynoComp suggested I do to check. Will the mail in stage 1 xflash tune be ok with the cam gears to 0? Also, what mark do I set the cam gears to?
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
Would you consider going back to the dyno and setting the cam gears at zero? This would pretty much eliminate all other variables.
What do I torque the cam gear bolts to? Thanks for your help!
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu
Would you consider going back to the dyno and setting the cam gears at zero? This would pretty much eliminate all other variables.


