I am planning on getting a Xede and my question is can Xede raise the rev limter?
TIA

 

Not by itself. To raise the rev limiter, you will need an XEDEflash (reflash of your ECU with raised boost and rev limits).

Shiv

 

Would the Xede reflash be detecable by Mitsibishi like a other flashes for a 05 ECU?

 

why are you worried? I am sure you are planning on doing more than just the Xede down the road, cant stop with 1 mod! I havent got my car "flagged" yet, and look at all my mods, go look at a picture of it! I drove it in to a dealership and said my 3rd gear is grinding, and they warrentied it!!!!!!!! schmooze them!

 

Any reflash is detectable by the dealer if they decide look and knock what to look for. But if you don't give them reason to look (other mods on your car), they wont. If it is big concern of yours, you can have your ECU flashed back to stock before you take it in. Regardless, if your warranty claim is unrelated to having a reflashed ECU, you have nothing to worry about.

Shiv

 

Shiv said what I was trying to say! enuff said.

 

I'm considering the XEDE and I'm not fully understanding...so seperately from the XEDE, one would need to send in the stock ECU to have it reflashed for raised RPM and boost? So by itself, the XEDE can optimize the fuel and timing maps up to the stock rev limit and boost limit?

 

You are correct! its like apple pie and baseball, you can just get the "XEDE flash, but both are much better. Dont consider getting the XEDE, JUST GET IT!!!!!!!!!!!!You'll thank me later!

 

Ok, so the ECU does have to be sent in...that'll be a problem for me. So will the XEDE alone keep the boost from dropping off past 5500 rpm? I'm looking at the full SMART system as well (although I'm not sure how more adaptive one could be with a MAF sensor, other than the greater accuracy of a true wideband 02 in the equation). I unfortunately appear to have a real A-hole of a service manager who'll use any excuse to void parts of the warranty depending on what part I modify. For example, I throw on a cat-back exhaust and I've just "bought" the entire exhaust system as he puts it. So if the header develops a crack, I'm SOL assuming I've put a cat-back exhaust on! I can only imagine what he'd say if I had an exhaust bung welded in the downpipe. But truth be told, I don't really have to take the car to Mitsubishi for service now do I? Any ASE certified tech could do the maintenance per Mitsu's schedule and they'd never know. I guess I'm really looking for a plug and play system. Just need to take advantage of the stock car's strengths. It honestly feels like a dog at this point but I haven't really wrung her out yet (550 miles!) and I'm also used to a 2600lb. single turbo third gen RX7 as my daily driver!

 

Call around to other mitshu dealers. I had the tranny warranty work done at a Indy dealership, but NOT the one I bought it from, as they wouldnt warranty it either, the mgr. is also an a-hole. Shop around and ask what the policy is on warranties and aftermarket parts. you'll find someone for sure. Call first.

 

It doesn't _have_ to be. You only need the flash if you want to run past the stock rev limiter or past the stock boost limits.

And for a lot of us. Those two ^^^^ features were never worth the hassle of sending my ecu in and having the car down for 2 days, so I haven't bothered. The Xede will work great by itself. At some point down the road, I might decide that I want to spin the engine a higher. At that time I can decide to get the flash.

Well. Yes and know. The Xede allows you to hold boost much better at higher RPMS. It won't be a flat line however. The factory turbocharger is less efficient above 6000 RPMS so almost any solution will still have _some_ taper as you approach redline.

However, it's not just the boost that you should look at. It's the whole package (boost, timing, fuel) that give you safe power. Almost everyone you'll find will attest that the top end power was much improved with just an Xede.

If I was in that position, I would simple look for another service dept. There are too many good ones out there to put up with a crappy one. Maybe somebody local can point you in the right direction.

I know exactly how you feel. You'll hear a lot people comment that after modifying they further appreciate just how good the stock car is. I mean, it's quiet, comfortable, reliable, and really fast. You don't _have_ to mod it to have a awesome car and you can always make the leap at 10k or 50k miles, after you've really gotten to know the vehicle.

d

 

If you want to run a race gas tune on the car, you will need the xede flash to kill the boost cut...otherwise, you can't run more than 22psi(for 2 seconds).

Also, if you are worried about downtime, and happen to live near someone else who can flash the ECU, they will likely flash it to remove the boost cust and raise the rev limit fairly cheap. So thats an option.

I know what you mean about the stock car feeling like a dog, i came from a 500whp TT car....you gotta get that exhaust breathing and add 2-3psi to wake her up.

 

Oh yeah, and as far as warranty work goes. Search for dealers in your area that will do it. I take my car to a dealer 1.5 hours away because they will do warranty work on my car with all my mods. Right now, they are rebuilding the tranny and putting on a new T-case for me with an aftermarket clutch in there.

 

... so when will we be able to XEDEflash the stock ECU past an 8000rpm redline ... cuz mine still cuts fuel at ~8050.

l8r)

 

Cool guys, thanks for the feedback I really appreciate it! I'm trying to catch up here rather quickly as I've been rotary only for so long! The systems and their "do's" and "don'ts" are quite different from the offerings in the rotary community. I guess the XEDE (base) with a cat-back exhaust would be ideal for me. I don't want any issues with running the car daily and I no longer wish to spend hours and hours tuning on the dyno/street/etc...just a hair more power, driveability and maybe a bit better gas mileage!

One other thing that surprises me about these cars is how rich everyone seems to run. I understand the engine is basically octane starved (esp. in the 91 octane states) and the richer a/f ratios help keep detonation at bay. But when I started reading discussions about a/f ratio, I thought everyone was talking rotary numbers! I see people throwing around low 11's and high 10's as safe. Heck, I run 11.6:1 as safe on my RX7 so it really surprised me. Are a/f ratios that rich really necessary on a mostly stock car to keep it reliable?