Almost new member of the Stage 1+ club
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From: Inland Empire, CA
Almost new member of the Stage 1+ club
It is Wednesday night. My car is sitting at Road Race Engineering with my 264/272 cams in their boxes on the passenger seat. My Xede bank 0 has my Stage 1 91octane loaded, and bank 1 has the 1+ 91 map loaded. I'll put them wires together when I pick it up and I'll be ready to go....
They will be installing them tomorrow (Thurs) sometime and I told them to set the cam gears at -2/-2. However, RRE said they usually retard them more than that. Well, should I?
You guys know me: I don't even know how to road race (yet) but I like to go out to the drags. Knowing this, should I go with -3/-3 or even -4/-4? Would that give me a little more top end? Is the difference so minimal that I'm being stupid? I suppose I could just play with them later and test the different setting on the butt dyno.
Shiv, Eric, David, Mark, EZ76, others, please chime in.
They will be installing them tomorrow (Thurs) sometime and I told them to set the cam gears at -2/-2. However, RRE said they usually retard them more than that. Well, should I?
You guys know me: I don't even know how to road race (yet) but I like to go out to the drags. Knowing this, should I go with -3/-3 or even -4/-4? Would that give me a little more top end? Is the difference so minimal that I'm being stupid? I suppose I could just play with them later and test the different setting on the butt dyno.
Shiv, Eric, David, Mark, EZ76, others, please chime in.
Taking safety into consideration it'd probably be prudent to set them at what Shiv suggests (-2 or -3), since his base maps are tuned around that. Sure RRE may set them with greater retard, but also realize that their 'state of tune', not to mention management system aswell may also be very different than Shiv's. If you were to compare logs of each tuners parameters you could spot out the differences.
In any event if you end up retarding the gears it would be a good idea to turn the crank a couple of times by hand to make sure the settings don't cause interference with the valves and pistons. Sure you can go off what others are running, but hey... it's your motor not theirs. Be safe. Do you know how far + or - you can go without interference? Once you know what that is you can play in between with some peace of mind.
In any event if you end up retarding the gears it would be a good idea to turn the crank a couple of times by hand to make sure the settings don't cause interference with the valves and pistons. Sure you can go off what others are running, but hey... it's your motor not theirs. Be safe. Do you know how far + or - you can go without interference? Once you know what that is you can play in between with some peace of mind.
Last edited by n00dle; Feb 11, 2004 at 11:06 PM.
Originally posted by n00dle
Taking safety into consideration it'd probably be prudent to set them at what Shiv suggests (-2 or -3), since his base maps are tuned around that. Sure RRE may set them with greater retard, but also realize that their 'state of tune', not to mention management system aswell may also be very different than Shiv's. If you were to compare logs of each tuners parameters you could spot out the differences.
In any event if you end up retarding the gears it would be a good idea to turn the crank a couple of times by hand to make sure the settings don't cause interference with the valves and pistons. Sure you can go off what others are running, but hey... it's your motor not theirs. Be safe. Do you know how far + or - you can go without interference? Once you know what that is you can play in between with some peace of mind.
Taking safety into consideration it'd probably be prudent to set them at what Shiv suggests (-2 or -3), since his base maps are tuned around that. Sure RRE may set them with greater retard, but also realize that their 'state of tune', not to mention management system aswell may also be very different than Shiv's. If you were to compare logs of each tuners parameters you could spot out the differences.
In any event if you end up retarding the gears it would be a good idea to turn the crank a couple of times by hand to make sure the settings don't cause interference with the valves and pistons. Sure you can go off what others are running, but hey... it's your motor not theirs. Be safe. Do you know how far + or - you can go without interference? Once you know what that is you can play in between with some peace of mind.
The stage 1+ is as big of jump for my butt dyno as the stage 1 was. You will love it and knowing you put it to good use
What ever Shiv says. I know the amount of Dyno time he used to figure that out. -2 or -3 really can see there being a huge diffrance but what you don't want to do is lose power or retard to much that there is no more power gain over -2 or -3.
Eric
Eric
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From: Inland Empire, CA
Originally posted by limey
Hey Smog is RRE installing a walbro for you also?, as this is also recommended for the 1+
Hey Smog is RRE installing a walbro for you also?, as this is also recommended for the 1+
Last edited by Smogrunner; Feb 12, 2004 at 10:32 AM.
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From: Inland Empire, CA
"Hey Smog - if you are running the Stage 1+ 91 octane map I sent you, I think it was tuned with -3/-3 and a XEDEFlash in mind."
I haven't had time to fully analyze those two maps, but I think you may have mistakenly sent me the Stage 1 maps, instead of the Stage 1+. (They were named "Stage 1 91 with xedeflash" In any case, no big deal. I have the baseline 1+ maps installed which should work fine until I sort things out.
I haven't had time to fully analyze those two maps, but I think you may have mistakenly sent me the Stage 1 maps, instead of the Stage 1+. (They were named "Stage 1 91 with xedeflash" In any case, no big deal. I have the baseline 1+ maps installed which should work fine until I sort things out.


