Shiv,

I remember reading a post you made in another thread about controlling these three things - fuel, ignition, and boost. And how having all 3 customizable is the best combination. Then you concluded that because of that, holding constant boost (e.g., 19-20psi) to redline would be a compromise.

Is this because, while holding a certain level of boost, it is restraining the amount of fuel available, and also retarding timing, in order to uphold the amount of boost?

So in theory, you are saying that by NOT holding constant boost, you can alter fuel/ignition for the best combination of the three that will provide the most power? (meaning, constant boost is not the best possible combination)

If this is the case, what should I do with my boost controller if I want to get a XFlash (still awaiting more info on the XFlash Tuner module )? Would I just use the stock boost solenoid again?

Thanks!

 

And as I understand it, in terms of performance,

XFlash = XEDE + XEDEFlash (an XFlash but only for boost/rev)

Except that XEDE provides user customizability and the XFlash does not.

 

I was in the exact same boat you were a little while back. I went to a stage 1 with XFlash and cam gears, and dumped my SAFC in the process. Judging by roll-on races with some of my friends, it was a tremendous improvement!

Also, I have a lot of faith in the map on the XFlash to not be too lean in spots. I don't know if you WBO2 tuned your SAFC or just used e-settings, but this is a lot better.

Regarding the manual boost controller, I used mine off and on for awhile, but it definitely is a compromise.. Here's why: Upon WOT tip in, the XFlash is mapped to see ~23psi in the midrange where our 16G is the most efficient. And it is a MAJOR acceleration kick. My Hallman, conversely, was set at 19psi. It would hit and hold there, but loses so much midrange power due to the fact that it misses out on a 4psi bump to get the car really scooting.

The XFlash tuner will be out shortly, and you'll be able to tweak and add a race gas map, but until Shiv is ready to launch it, specific information remains sketchy. IMO, it is greatly worth it to sell the SAFC and get an XFlash for $400. You goin better boost control, retain good+safe air:fuel control, raise the rev limiter, and get timing advance. The timing control makes a gigantic difference especially. I smoked some unsuspecting guy's doors off in an LS1 Z28 on the way to work this morning. After suspecting some easy kill on a ricey winged import, he was pretty disappointed to say the least.

 

Noize,

That's awesome to hear. I've been having a lot of trouble finding someone who actually *knows* how to tune the SAFC well around my area. Everyone seems to have conflicting info on what is/isn't a good tune, and while it's a good entry level tool it just can't get the job done! There's too much guessing going on and I don't have the equipment (wb02) or the money to go to the dyno all the time. As of this point in time, after two dyno sessions, the thing still isn't dialed perfectly. So far the XFlash just sounds like the best way to go.

I see what you mean about midrange boost - I never thought of it that way, and that does sound pretty good! So did you just end up selling your MBC, and reconnect your stock boost solenoid? (I thought the stock boost solenoid was limited to 19psi? or not...)

EDIT: I mean, so the XFlash controls boost through the stock boost solenoid? You have to have the boost pill removed though, right?

 

I'm holding on to my MBC, because you never know when you'll want to use it for something.

Basically, you reinstall the factory T fitting. There is a brass pill inline to the hose that goes to the compressor, so you'll need that. The line that goes to the wastegate actuator arm has nothing inside it, and then you replace the line from the T that goes to the factory BCS with one Vishnu supplies. Installation is a snap. The first time I pulled the boost lines off, I took the shielding off the bottom of the car, because they were stuck fast. Now, I just reach down in there and can swap boost lines for MBC/factory boost control in like 30 seconds.

But yes, XFlash controls boost through the stock BCS, but since you replace the main line that goes to the BCS with the Vishnu line, it has a small plastic piece in line that takes care of the boost level. It is pretty much a set it and forget it solution, which is nice.

The reason I like XFlash over other reflashes, is that Shiv tunes open and closed loop, and you get a gas mileage bump in addition to more horsepower! Also, that midrange kick is unbelievable. Trust me in that I researched this for a long time before committing to Vishnu. I'm elated with the results! Now hurry up and put that SAFC in the for sale forum so you can get your XFlash!

 

D'oh... there's a brass pill in the compressor line? Hmm... see, I never knew about any boost pill thing, so I just threw away all the factory hoses when I installed my EBC. Uh oh. What now?

 

DUDE! For shame.

You'll be alright. You can get the small lines and T fitting from for pretty cheap. I'm sure someone knows the part number, but I do not.

 

Here's the pic that I used to install my EBC (yeah it was for MBC but it's the same concept):



Do they sell connectors for vacuum tubing? I cut the hose going from intake to the BOV line as per the diagram... So i guess it's that bottom hose that I need? The T-line going from the solenoid to the turbo and actuator...

 

By the picture, I can tell that you installed yours TOTALLY differently than I installed mine. I capped the line to the BCS and sent the ball side of the MBC to the compressor housing and the spring side to the wastegate actuator arm. I didn't tee into the BOV line at all; there is a difference of theory there, and I followed the old DSM way, as well as I installed my WRX MBC in the past as well. Works like a champ and you don't have to cut any lines. Your EBC would work my way as well, but you can probably recuperate 100% of your cost by selling it and the SAFC to upgrade to an XFlash and get a good amount of the cam gears paid for as well.

You can buy a ton of assorted tubing connectors at a place like Lowe's or Home Depot for $2 a box. You can piece meal everything back together no problem, your only need is to get the brass pill back in the line to the compressor housing so everything will work together.

I really think you'd be very happy with an XFlash instead, because the added boost and timing help out so much for power. If you continue to have technical questions about putting this back together, I am willing to PM you my cell phone number so we can talk through this while you are looking under the hood. The phone is always easier than trying to type in text.

 

Well, I've got TONS of vacuum tubing. No worries there.

Yeah, I did the same with my EBC at first actually. One end to the turbo, the other to the actuator. I was having some spiking problems though, and I heard that using this method was supposed to be more stable (according to AMS and Buschur and some other places).

The only things I need to get are vacuum hose connectors (non T connectors, so that I can reconnect the BOV line), and the brass pill. I somehow doubt the guy at the parts counter will know what I'm talking about when I tell him. I need to get a parts # from somewhere...

Yeah, you're totally right about recuperating costs. The SAFC + harness + EBC will hopefully be at least $500.

 

i thought when you do xflash, shiv takes out the brass pill? he took a brass pill out of one my hoses but i do not know which hose it is. all i know was he took out a brass pill :-)

 

You remove the line to the BCS; it has a pill in it as well. You don't pull the pill out of the line that goes to the compressor housing, however.

 

The harness was my best selling point. I refused to separate it from the SAFC and apparently they were on national backorder when I was trying to sell mine.

Funny you mentioned Buschur. Tym over there told me to use the compressor to the WGA arm method. I got absolutely no spiking with that method and the Hallman. It would jump up, hit 19psi, and stay there.

 

The part number for the whole hose assembly that has the pill in it is MN143555. I actually ordered a replacement because my line was damaged. I had to call in the order to Josh at mitsubishipartsstore.com, his number is (414)727-2900, it's actually a dealers parts department. I think it was about $13.

Lacoste

 

so basically if you are going to get a Xflasher you dont need a AFC or Boost controller?