$13 FailSafe Idea
With the SMC kit, is there any way to wire in a fail safe signal. I know they have the lowel fluid level light and I have heard something about monotiring the psi to determine if it is working or not.
Basically is there any way to hook up something to the SMC that can give an electrical output if the thing fails?
Basically is there any way to hook up something to the SMC that can give an electrical output if the thing fails?
Originally Posted by dudical26
C6C6CH3vo - can you post bigger pics, those ones are hard to see
I had some concerns about the bleed port on the MBC, but without trying my idea I was not completly sure how it would effect the system.
Thanks
I had some concerns about the bleed port on the MBC, but without trying my idea I was not completly sure how it would effect the system.
Thanks

Here is a quick clip with fuse in as a control just as a reminder of how quick our cars spool and importance of getting solid air to the actuator

Bleeding off the air would make the psi spike, the last thing you want without spray
This is nothing new. Our local performance shop has been doing this of late. They're basically putting a pressure sensor in the alky line and running it to a solenoid just like you are describing. If the pressure drops it triggers the solenoid which dumps your boost.
The only flaw in your system is that you expect the alky injection kit spray signal to be a worthy sign of failure. Its not. It can think its spraying just fine and tell you so, but if the pump is weak or failing and not delivering the pressure you won't know. Thats why its best to install an inline pressure sensor for this failsafe to work.
The only flaw in your system is that you expect the alky injection kit spray signal to be a worthy sign of failure. Its not. It can think its spraying just fine and tell you so, but if the pump is weak or failing and not delivering the pressure you won't know. Thats why its best to install an inline pressure sensor for this failsafe to work.
Last edited by teknishnIX; Nov 9, 2006 at 03:50 PM.
C6C6CH3vo correct me if I am wrong, but the diagrams you posted on the first page of this thread. Your new setup is the same as the setup on the right side of the first picture you posted. It is hard for me to tell with the small pictures but is that correct?
Yes, instead of the parallel config with a 2 way solenoid, which bleeds the emergency air, it uses the MBC outlet and NO ports of 3 way sol to run in normal. And in failsafe, it uses the energized ports of the same solenoid which are blocked from bleeding
It works so much better than the parallel config
It works so much better than the parallel config
Originally Posted by teknishnIX
This is nothing new. Our local performance shop has been doing this of late. They're basically putting a pressure sensor in the alky line and running it to a solenoid just like you are describing. If the pressure drops it triggers the solenoid which dumps your boost.
The only flaw in your system is that you expect the alky injection kit spray signal to be a worthy sign of failure. Its not. It can think its spraying just fine and tell you so, but if the pump is weak or failing and not delivering the pressure you won't know. Thats why its best to install an inline pressure sensor for this failsafe to work.
The only flaw in your system is that you expect the alky injection kit spray signal to be a worthy sign of failure. Its not. It can think its spraying just fine and tell you so, but if the pump is weak or failing and not delivering the pressure you won't know. Thats why its best to install an inline pressure sensor for this failsafe to work.
the ideal situation is to install an inline flow sensor, not pressure sensor - and be able to set the "upper and lower" flow rate.
Pressure sensor is not a good way to determine if engine is getting her drink. Unless you drive your car in a class 10,000 cleanroom under HEPA with less than 1 part per billion particulate counts
Last edited by C6C6CH3vo; Nov 9, 2006 at 09:38 PM.
that point of my post was to talk about the meathod of cutting boost asuming that you already have a working failsafe signal. This is simply for talking about how to wire in a solenoid or relay to cut boost
Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
Pressure sensor is not a good way to determine if engine is getting her drink. Unless you drive your car in a class 10,000 cleanroom under HEPA with less than 1 part per billion particulate counts
good place to be in if you got allergies


