Single injector Drivers?
Another question, I know I need a stainless steel style injector to withstand the rusting from a water injected system but what if i were to run 100% denatured alcohol or methanol? Would a "flex fuel" injector designed for E85 be able to do this I believe Delphi makes E85 specific injectors.
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Nov 17, 2007 at 01:16 PM.
I think you have already got all the answers to your questions from post #13. I can only help you so far - you have to do some work yourself.
I don't known the answers to your last post, well over my head. Sorry.
Again, research more.
I don't known the answers to your last post, well over my head. Sorry.
Again, research more.
So I think I've decided to make this setup solely for Denatured Alcohol and not for water. My main goal was to increase my octane rating more than just lower combustion temps so a 100% denatured alcohol setup will do that just fine. I basically want to increase the ethanol percentage in the gas (there is already up to 10% by volume in our gas here) to roughly 30% with the aid of the alcohol injection.
I posted info regarding the octane ratings of ethanol and methanol along with the average mixtures of ethanol into unleaded gas in the U.S. today HERE. California, uses no higher than 91 octane AKI (anti-knock index- this is how the U.S. rates their octane with the (RON+MON)/2 method) and is scheduled to have a maximum of 10% ethanol in all blends by 2009 statewide.
Increasing 91 octane AKI gas (with 10% ethanol) to a 30% ethanol mix = 96 octane
Increasing 93 octane AKI gas (with 10% ethanol) to a 30% ethanol mix = 98 octane
After researching my butt off, I've decided that a standard performance fuel injector can withstand the rigors of ethanol well enough for me to continue. I would suggest using viton o-ring seals since the o-rings are the weakest link here and it wouldn't hurt to replace them every 6 months or so for routine maintenance.
I really dislike the standard alky kits and their uncontrolled fuel pressures and nozzle flow/atomization characteristics. Running an inline walbro fuel pump with a 1:1 AFPR allows there to be a constant fuel flow even when boost pressure is introduced. This, along with the atomization qualities of a fuel injector allow MUCH lower fuel pressures for consistent atomization...every time. Not to mention the fact that the injector shuts off immediately so there is no vacuum issue or dribbling effect like some cheaper alky kits.
Here is a cool octane mixing calculator I came aross that I'd share with whoever hasn't seen it already.
http://www.serioussolutions.com/evo/octcalc.htm
Since I designed my injector driver circuit to mimic whatever the stock injectors pulse width is, once you dial in the alcohol injection kits fuel injector size and fuel pressure it will ALWAYS be a specific percentage of the total fuel volume. You simply reduce the ECU fuel maps to achieve the desired air/fuel ratio that works best with a 30% ethanol mixture (I'd strive for 12.5:1 as a "goal").
Example:
Adding a 640cc injector running at 43.5psi static pressure would increase the fuel ratio to 70% unleaded gas and 30% alcohol when using the stock injector size of 560cc's.
Updated:
I posted info regarding the octane ratings of ethanol and methanol along with the average mixtures of ethanol into unleaded gas in the U.S. today HERE. California, uses no higher than 91 octane AKI (anti-knock index- this is how the U.S. rates their octane with the (RON+MON)/2 method) and is scheduled to have a maximum of 10% ethanol in all blends by 2009 statewide.
Increasing 91 octane AKI gas (with 10% ethanol) to a 30% ethanol mix = 96 octane
Increasing 93 octane AKI gas (with 10% ethanol) to a 30% ethanol mix = 98 octane
After researching my butt off, I've decided that a standard performance fuel injector can withstand the rigors of ethanol well enough for me to continue. I would suggest using viton o-ring seals since the o-rings are the weakest link here and it wouldn't hurt to replace them every 6 months or so for routine maintenance.
I really dislike the standard alky kits and their uncontrolled fuel pressures and nozzle flow/atomization characteristics. Running an inline walbro fuel pump with a 1:1 AFPR allows there to be a constant fuel flow even when boost pressure is introduced. This, along with the atomization qualities of a fuel injector allow MUCH lower fuel pressures for consistent atomization...every time. Not to mention the fact that the injector shuts off immediately so there is no vacuum issue or dribbling effect like some cheaper alky kits.
Here is a cool octane mixing calculator I came aross that I'd share with whoever hasn't seen it already.
http://www.serioussolutions.com/evo/octcalc.htm
Since I designed my injector driver circuit to mimic whatever the stock injectors pulse width is, once you dial in the alcohol injection kits fuel injector size and fuel pressure it will ALWAYS be a specific percentage of the total fuel volume. You simply reduce the ECU fuel maps to achieve the desired air/fuel ratio that works best with a 30% ethanol mixture (I'd strive for 12.5:1 as a "goal").
Example:
Adding a 640cc injector running at 43.5psi static pressure would increase the fuel ratio to 70% unleaded gas and 30% alcohol when using the stock injector size of 560cc's.
Updated:
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Nov 19, 2007 at 09:34 PM.
Ah, good point,lol. I will have a boost source connected to a 2-25 psi adjustable boost activation switch in my circuit. I will probably have it set for around 12psi to start aiding just before peak load and to avoid triggering the system during light/moderate driving. I would prefer to even have it triggered by the ECU over a certain load condition but I will have to see if any of the ECUFlash guys can figure out a way to create a 'load output trigger' somehow. The nice thing is it wouldn't FLOOD the engine if you accidentally hit 12psi like a basic alky kit would since its pulse width will only be as large as the stock injectors at any given point.
I probably should have added that to my little diagram,lol.
I probably should have added that to my little diagram,lol.
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Nov 19, 2007 at 09:36 PM.
since your system is going to be a IDC based injection system, how about having it come on at say ~X % idc rather than boost...smoother fueling transistion?
DIY ftw!
DIY ftw!
Well, as you lean out the system you would essentially be altering the point where it would begin. If I can't trigger it with a load adjustable output wire from the ECU, I will still be content with a boost switch I think.
I am working on a very similar system but no meth, just 100% water for me, I will mix 5% of soluble oil (CNC powder to mix with water) in my water tank to protect pump and injector...
Should install it soon...I'll let you know...
Should install it soon...I'll let you know...
Also, don't forget that even that small of an oil content will lower your effective octane rating so make sure your percentage of added water is enough to make the gains worth it.
If you like to know how a proportional valve works, go to the link below:
Clippard Electronic proportional valve: EVP made by Clippard
(please note Cooling's valve may not be sourced from Clippard.

Clippard Electronic proportional valve: EVP made by Clippard
(please note Cooling's valve may not be sourced from Clippard.

I suggest using PWM valve instead of a proportional valve. The cost of PWM is nearly half of the proportional valve, but it is made of non-stainless by will work well with water/methaniol mix. Not suitable with 100% water.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=277163&page=4 (post #54)
As the drive signal is going to be PWM, the proportional valve will not work well if PWM signal is less than 250Hz. the Proportional Valve (PV) is designed to work with DC current or very high frequency chopped DC only. There are other issues with using a proportional valve for this kind of application.
I think the following configuration can be a good alternative to a PWM system:
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/show...=388723&page=4
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=277163&page=4 (post #54)
As the drive signal is going to be PWM, the proportional valve will not work well if PWM signal is less than 250Hz. the Proportional Valve (PV) is designed to work with DC current or very high frequency chopped DC only. There are other issues with using a proportional valve for this kind of application.
I think the following configuration can be a good alternative to a PWM system:
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/show...=388723&page=4
Last edited by Richard L; Nov 27, 2007 at 03:08 AM.



