Well I have had my car apart for about two weeks. After I installed the FP Green, I noticed the banjo bolts for the coolant lines were leaking. So I had to take everything apart and redo the install of the turbo. It took two weeks because I don't have time to dedicate to just working on my car. My job owns me, so I can only work on it when I get the chance, plus I had to order a new LICP so I was waiting on that. I removed the radiator, UICP, LICP, Exhaust manifold, and the downpipe. I DID NOT mess with anything on the aqumist setup other than removing the lines from the UICP and the Flow sensor.

Well everything is back together and now my aquamist pump won't turn on when the car is on. I gauge lights up, and all of the fuses are good. The wires are all soldered to the ecu wires and nothing seems to be loose. I do notice that the light where the fuse is back by the pump is not turning on. I tried a different relay, but that didn't seem to help. Anybody have any ideas ? I'm so frustrated right now I can hardly see straight. I've been waiting to get everything setup right so I can drive my car and now this crap happens...End Rant! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

To start

Check wires at the junction box for bad connection and check the ground at the pump.

At the junction box wiggle it wire to see if it falls out......if one or more does re hook them up.

For the pump make sure the pump ground is good = bare metal.

 

I would try to figure out if the problem is power/ground to the pump, or a problem up front with DDS3/flow sensor. With the key turned all the way forward (so the dash lights up) and the motor off, you should be able to get the pump running by shorting one of the relay pins in the junction box (sorry, can't remember which one) to ground. That will at least rule out the power wire for the pump, the relay and the ground wire for the pump.

 

Ok I checked a few things with a voltage meter and now I have a few questions. The ground on the pump is good. I know because if I bypass the relay then it turns on. I also took voltage readings where the relay plugs in and I was getting 12 volts on both the red and blue small relay wires that go up to the DDS3 box. I was also getting 12 volts from the larger power supply wire. The wire that connects to the pump is not getting any voltage. So now I need to know if the small red a blue relay wires are suppose to read 12 volts or not. For some reason the relay isn't switching over the connection for the power supply to get to the pump wire. Is there anything or anytime when the pump is suppose to shut off other than when the power is killed to the vehicle? Can I just bypass the relay all together and hard wire the pump to be on when the car is on? We checked the resistance of the relay and it read 90. I purchased a similar relay at an autoparts store and it read 70. So I'm thinking that the relay is good.

 

Can I call you today to do a tele-diagnosis, please arm yourself with a DVM. If it is possible, please pm me your phone number and best time to call. I am at GMT.

 

pm sent!

 

I will do what I can without the help of a DVM.

A DVM is about $10-12 dollars from Radioshack, a useful tool to invest.

 

Everything working great! Thanks Richard!

 

So what was the problem? I have the same thing going on.

 

As things turned out, there wasn't a problem.

hgorden,

Can I call you to do some diagnostic work? It would be handy if you have a DVM.

 

Yeah, that would be great, my number is 303-669-5744