An unfortunate customer had a rear strut bar installed in just about the poorest way possible here's a picture:



Not very pretty huh? I call that the hack/slash method.

Here's how we like to install them:



Much nicer.

So if you are local and want it done right, give us a call, we still have a few GT spec bars left!

And for anyone not local ordering GT-Spec Rear Bars, feel free to take this as an example. I'd love to see some more clean installations if you got them.

 

Very nice!!

How about guess what car and color Tyler drives and win a GT Ti rear strut bar.

 

Honda civic!

 

how mutch for the bar?

 

In the interest of a cleaner installation it seems that your bar could have been inserted through a much smaller hole in the carpeting and a grommet used. Why was your bar heated to the blue point?


Looking at the bolts attaching the bar to the tower brackets it appears from your pics that Flex points exist at points a and b (fig.1)

0---------------0
^ ^
a b
Fig. 1

The bolted joints seem to suggest that the design is subject to some degree of parallel angular displacement. My assumption is that there a third point of contact with the supestructure not shown. Going only by the pic.s, the "hack and slash" installed bar looks to be a more ridgid design.

 

The hole size was determined to gain access to the mounting nuts and the top adjuster for the ZEALS and Ohlins. We can cut to whatever size you want.
The bluing is part of the Titanium bar color.
Come by and check them out. We'd love to discuss statics with you.

 

$150ish to $330ish depending on Al, CF, or Ti

http://www.worksevo.com/store/produc...roducts_id=177

 

Thank you for your response and the offer to discuss your design model. One my cousins is a former bridge engineer for Cal Trans and Director of Public works here in Redding. As such, he is very experienced in critiquing support structures. If you have a more complete picture it would more than adaquate information.

 

I agree 100% with WildRice - that's why I bought the Ralliart one-piece bar. This doesn't necessarily means it's correct but I've never seen a professionally built race car with hinged strut bars.

I'd be very interested in keeping the discussion here on the forum =)

 

red civic dx 92-95, running a turbo.

 

Oh don't forget with a blow off valve that growls more than whoosh

Well you don't win a GT strut bar but you do win an used Pruven axle back if you live near by and need a temporary exhaust for your Evo. Just need to pick it (probably at Works) and clean it since it has some dirt build up around the can.

Just let me know

 

thank you for the response I will check them out online

 

That would be cool, but I'm already going to works today to get my works downpipe, works high flow cat, and hks carbon ti installed. Just knowing that I won is good enough for my ego.

 

WORKS does not have a "design" for a rear strut tower brace. But if we did, the bar would be more inline with the mounting plane (like the GT Spec) because it is much stronger in tension and compression than a "U" shaped bar (other) which has tall levers at each end.

Try squeezing
one of these ______________ vs. one of these |______________|

The hinge is not a factor if there is little or no Y component and ensures that the plate is sitting flat on the mounting surface since each vehicle has manufacturing tolerances. It also eliminates preload and fatigue on the bar like one-piece bolt-on designs often exhibit.

Professionally built race cars typically have their bars welded in this inline fashion space permitting.

 

Preach on....abolutely a no-no, there is nothing to be gained with that design. Looks pretty cool, but I would seriously doubt that it would make much difference.