Top Hats -- Going Nuts
Top Hats -- Going Nuts
Hi All!
I'm the proud recipient of a set of Ohlins "Road and Track Coilovers." I've been able to procure WORKS front and rear top hats / front camber plates.
The removal of the original top hats was pretty straight forward. However the reinstallation of the WORKS components is causing me a hard time.
The nut that holds the whole assembly together is spinning the damper shaft on the rears. There was not manufactured a flat on the Ohlins damper shaft to hold it while a top nut is spun on and torqued.
When WORKs sees such a situation, what is the best way to hold the shaft while a top nut is torqued down?
Am I likely to have the same problem on the front where the shaft over an inch larger in diameter?
Cheers,
~j.
I'm the proud recipient of a set of Ohlins "Road and Track Coilovers." I've been able to procure WORKS front and rear top hats / front camber plates.
The removal of the original top hats was pretty straight forward. However the reinstallation of the WORKS components is causing me a hard time.
The nut that holds the whole assembly together is spinning the damper shaft on the rears. There was not manufactured a flat on the Ohlins damper shaft to hold it while a top nut is spun on and torqued.
When WORKs sees such a situation, what is the best way to hold the shaft while a top nut is torqued down?
Am I likely to have the same problem on the front where the shaft over an inch larger in diameter?
Cheers,
~j.
I think that's one of the best options there.
Another option is an impact wrench on the very very lightest setting and about three short blats.
Hopefully the calibrated wrist does the trick.
Thanks for the suggestions.
~j.
Another option is an impact wrench on the very very lightest setting and about three short blats.
Hopefully the calibrated wrist does the trick.
Thanks for the suggestions.
~j.
Hi All,
1.) Put air in the air compressor.
2.) Put air gun on the very lowest setting.
3.) Align top hat.
4.) Blat five extremely short bursts to seat the nut.
5.) Blat once more once the nut is seated.
6.) Apply a very small drop of green locktite.
7.) Smile a great smile of satisfaction.
These hints were shared by a tech that's done a ton of R&T Ohlins.
Hopefully somebody else likes changing their springs as much as I do.
~j.
1.) Put air in the air compressor.
2.) Put air gun on the very lowest setting.
3.) Align top hat.
4.) Blat five extremely short bursts to seat the nut.
5.) Blat once more once the nut is seated.
6.) Apply a very small drop of green locktite.
7.) Smile a great smile of satisfaction.
These hints were shared by a tech that's done a ton of R&T Ohlins.
Hopefully somebody else likes changing their springs as much as I do.
~j.
The Ohlins typically have a allen/hex opening at the top of the shaft. Ideally, you want your torque wrench and the proper hex bit along with the correct closed-end wrench (I'll vote again for the GearWrench option). After the hardware is aligned, slide the wrench into place and then put the torque wrench (set to "loosen" rather than the normal "tighten" direction) assembly inside the shaft. As you tighten the nut, the torque wrench keeps if from rotating and will let you know when the proper torque is applied.
Thanks Jamie ...
after looking closely, the thing I'm afraid of is playing with or hitting the adjuster hex which is much smaller inside of the shaft. However I think if I take it slow and keep things aligned I won't touch that adjuster.
Its tricksy, but doable.
~j.
after looking closely, the thing I'm afraid of is playing with or hitting the adjuster hex which is much smaller inside of the shaft. However I think if I take it slow and keep things aligned I won't touch that adjuster.
Its tricksy, but doable.
~j.



