Recommendations for HPDE...
Recommendations for HPDE...
Hi guys. I sent you an email with some questions, but perhaps this is a good place to ask them in case others are interested in the answers.
I have an Evo IX with WORKS P2R tuned for 93 octane, Exhale HFC, and 3" cat-back exhaust. I'm thinking about participating in a couple HPDE's this spring/summer, and since you guys do alot of road racing, who better to ask these questions than WORKS.
Is your 'blue' brake pad a good pad to use for a novice on the racetrack? Would it also be suitable for a daily driver, as well? I still have the OEM pads (in good condition) all around. Would you recommend replacing both front and rear, or could I get by with just the fronts? And are the stock rotors (in good condition, of course) up to the task?
Is an ATE Dot 4 fluid (wet boiling point 356F, dry boiling point 500F) suitable for this application?
Are the OEM Mitsubishi brake cooling guides a worthwhile addition?
Fuel pump-- I've done alot of reading, and many say the stock IX pump is up to the task with your basic bolt-ons. Because I would be spending more time in the higher RPM's on the track, would you guys recommend I stick with the stocker, or do you feel the Walbro 255 is a necessity? I would assume the new pump would require a reflash, correct?
Perhaps a stupid question, but do you think an average driver would get the brakes hot enough to turn the Brembo's brown or black at a first HPDE?
I simply would like to learn to be a better driver, without spending alot of cash on unnecessary items. And like many, my wife has me on a budget
In stock form, I feel the car is phenomenal, and I'd hate to compromise the drivability and reliability too much.
Your thoughts on these questions are much appreciated!
I have an Evo IX with WORKS P2R tuned for 93 octane, Exhale HFC, and 3" cat-back exhaust. I'm thinking about participating in a couple HPDE's this spring/summer, and since you guys do alot of road racing, who better to ask these questions than WORKS.
Is your 'blue' brake pad a good pad to use for a novice on the racetrack? Would it also be suitable for a daily driver, as well? I still have the OEM pads (in good condition) all around. Would you recommend replacing both front and rear, or could I get by with just the fronts? And are the stock rotors (in good condition, of course) up to the task?
Is an ATE Dot 4 fluid (wet boiling point 356F, dry boiling point 500F) suitable for this application?
Are the OEM Mitsubishi brake cooling guides a worthwhile addition?
Fuel pump-- I've done alot of reading, and many say the stock IX pump is up to the task with your basic bolt-ons. Because I would be spending more time in the higher RPM's on the track, would you guys recommend I stick with the stocker, or do you feel the Walbro 255 is a necessity? I would assume the new pump would require a reflash, correct?
Perhaps a stupid question, but do you think an average driver would get the brakes hot enough to turn the Brembo's brown or black at a first HPDE?
I simply would like to learn to be a better driver, without spending alot of cash on unnecessary items. And like many, my wife has me on a budget
In stock form, I feel the car is phenomenal, and I'd hate to compromise the drivability and reliability too much. Your thoughts on these questions are much appreciated!
The WORKS Blue brake pads are geared towards street driving. They are a more aggressive compound than the OEM Brembo pad and can hold up to auto-x duty and some light track work. If you’re a moderate to heavy braker, I’d look at the Endless CC-X as a potential double-duty or WORKS Orange compound for track use. Otherwise, you could consume the Blues at a higher rate than you might like. We do like the Blue pad in the rain when temps are generally lower and braking not as aggressive. We do like to use similar compounds at both axles, but you can stagger the setups slightly. While most prefer more bite out of the front, others want the bias to shift to the rear. If you do stagger, keep in mind the different operating temps could lead to some unpredictable/undesirable characteristics. (The Blues up front with an OEM pad in the rear would be OK, but I wouldn’t run the Oranges up front with the OEM rear.)
The other option is to use one pad compound on the street with another reserved for track use. The swap is relatively painless, especially if you’re going to be switching out wheels for a track day. (We would suggest something more aggressive than the Blues when using an R-compound tire.)
We do recommend a brake fluid with higher boiling points when hitting the track. The ATE Super Blue/TYP 200 works well, but the Motul RBF 600 and Endless RF 650 are even better. The latter two need a more frequent bleed, but most track guys tend to do this with nearly each event. I run the ATE in my own EVO and would pair it up with the Blue pads. If you’re running a more aggressive compound, I’d switch to the Motul or Endless fluid to better hold up to the higher temps.
Yes, the Mitsubishi brake air guides do improve cooling and WORKS does recommend them. While not as effective as a dedicated ducting kit or an F1 heat extractor, they do help out and are easy to install. The original Brembo rotors work well and would use them until they begin to warp or become too thin. Upgrade when it comes time to need the replacement.
The WORKS Brain Flash software should not need any changes, nor should a fuel pump (and subsequent software upgrade) be necessary. Some of our customers will mix in a little 100+ octane unleaded in with their pump gas just to add a little bit of a cushion. While not required, it does help to deal with the elevated temps usually common when flogging on the car for 20+ minutes at a time.
I wouldn’t say there’s a specific temperature that turns the Brembos brown (or in extreme cases black). When using an oven, it’s possible to burn items even at low temps, yet you can sneak your hand in there at very high temps and not get singed. Like the oven, it’s a combination of both time and temperature that can lead to the color change. You can probably get a few track days in before anything becomes noticeable, but beyond that you’ll probably pick up on the white logo not looking so white anymore.
For your first couple of events, you could head out there on all the OEM parts. I’d expect some brake fade, etc… to kick in towards the end of the session (or sooner as the day wears on), but it will give you a good indication as to what the car can do and what areas it needs to be improved upon to match up with your driving habits.
The other option is to use one pad compound on the street with another reserved for track use. The swap is relatively painless, especially if you’re going to be switching out wheels for a track day. (We would suggest something more aggressive than the Blues when using an R-compound tire.)
We do recommend a brake fluid with higher boiling points when hitting the track. The ATE Super Blue/TYP 200 works well, but the Motul RBF 600 and Endless RF 650 are even better. The latter two need a more frequent bleed, but most track guys tend to do this with nearly each event. I run the ATE in my own EVO and would pair it up with the Blue pads. If you’re running a more aggressive compound, I’d switch to the Motul or Endless fluid to better hold up to the higher temps.
Yes, the Mitsubishi brake air guides do improve cooling and WORKS does recommend them. While not as effective as a dedicated ducting kit or an F1 heat extractor, they do help out and are easy to install. The original Brembo rotors work well and would use them until they begin to warp or become too thin. Upgrade when it comes time to need the replacement.
The WORKS Brain Flash software should not need any changes, nor should a fuel pump (and subsequent software upgrade) be necessary. Some of our customers will mix in a little 100+ octane unleaded in with their pump gas just to add a little bit of a cushion. While not required, it does help to deal with the elevated temps usually common when flogging on the car for 20+ minutes at a time.
I wouldn’t say there’s a specific temperature that turns the Brembos brown (or in extreme cases black). When using an oven, it’s possible to burn items even at low temps, yet you can sneak your hand in there at very high temps and not get singed. Like the oven, it’s a combination of both time and temperature that can lead to the color change. You can probably get a few track days in before anything becomes noticeable, but beyond that you’ll probably pick up on the white logo not looking so white anymore.
For your first couple of events, you could head out there on all the OEM parts. I’d expect some brake fade, etc… to kick in towards the end of the session (or sooner as the day wears on), but it will give you a good indication as to what the car can do and what areas it needs to be improved upon to match up with your driving habits.
Thanks for taking the time to answer (in detail) all of my questions, Jamie! Sounds like your blue pads are worth a shot. You guys have a great day, and I'll be placing my order soon!
