ECU Reflashing - more to come?
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ECU Reflashing - more to come?
Dear anybody at WORKS;
First came the P1, then the P2. Is this the end of the reflashing?
I know their are specific add-ons for exhaust and such, but how about overall?
Just wondering if something was under development or not. I'm looking to see where my next mod $$ are going to be spent.
Please reply ASAP.........
Sincerely,
A current WORKS customer.
First came the P1, then the P2. Is this the end of the reflashing?
I know their are specific add-ons for exhaust and such, but how about overall?Just wondering if something was under development or not. I'm looking to see where my next mod $$ are going to be spent.
Please reply ASAP.........
Sincerely,
A current WORKS customer.
The P1 and P2 upgrades are different software stages in themselves. There are however many different programs in each stage, based on what other upgrades you have and what octane of fuel you are running.
From the basic level P1 for a stock EVO, to a P2 flashed EVO with every upgrade we offer (cams, water injection...) each program is tuned for your specific setup.
-TylerO@WORKS
From the basic level P1 for a stock EVO, to a P2 flashed EVO with every upgrade we offer (cams, water injection...) each program is tuned for your specific setup.
-TylerO@WORKS
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From: Springfield, IL
So lets say I have a P2 93 Octane flash. This is very common is states outside of California!
Assuming I don't have any other mods - is this ECU technology at it's limit? Like will there every be a P3 or 4 or ??
Assuming I don't have any other mods - is this ECU technology at it's limit? Like will there every be a P3 or 4 or ??
There is a max amount of safe power you can get out of a car without any other mods by adjusting fuel maps, timing maps, etc... (P2) Beyond that other parts have to be modified or replaced.
There are no immediate plans for a "P3" upgrade. But that doesn't rule it out of future possibilities...
-TylerO@WORKS
There are no immediate plans for a "P3" upgrade. But that doesn't rule it out of future possibilities...
-TylerO@WORKS
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From: Springfield, IL
Originally posted by TylerO@WORKS
There is a max amount of safe power you can get out of a car without any other mods by adjusting fuel maps, timing maps, etc... (P2) Beyond that other parts have to be modified or replaced.
There are no immediate plans for a "P3" upgrade. But that doesn't rule it out of future possibilities...
-TylerO@WORKS
There is a max amount of safe power you can get out of a car without any other mods by adjusting fuel maps, timing maps, etc... (P2) Beyond that other parts have to be modified or replaced.
There are no immediate plans for a "P3" upgrade. But that doesn't rule it out of future possibilities...
-TylerO@WORKS
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Got a question. I know the P2 is designed to allow for a possible spike, then hold steady at 19psi. According to my boost guage, that is exactly what is happening to me...
My question is, what if I wanted to hold that boost at a higher level? Could I add in like an MBC or something to hold it at 21psi or something?
Would this be ok with the P2 flash?
Would this be safe on the engine itself?
Just curious...
My question is, what if I wanted to hold that boost at a higher level? Could I add in like an MBC or something to hold it at 21psi or something?
Would this be ok with the P2 flash?
Would this be safe on the engine itself?
Just curious...
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yes, you can raise the boost to 21psi with the MBC.
However, the P2 program is set to run 19-20psi. At 21 psi you might see issues. Try it if you want, be sure to use the best gas you can get and if you detect any problems or issues, drop the boost accordingly.
Safe for the engine? There are to many factors for me to just say yes or no.
However, the P2 program is set to run 19-20psi. At 21 psi you might see issues. Try it if you want, be sure to use the best gas you can get and if you detect any problems or issues, drop the boost accordingly.
Safe for the engine? There are to many factors for me to just say yes or no.
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Originally posted by TylerO@WORKS
yes, you can raise the boost to 21psi with the MBC.
However, the P2 program is set to run 19-20psi. At 21 psi you might see issues. Try it if you want, be sure to use the best gas you can get and if you detect any problems or issues, drop the boost accordingly.
Safe for the engine? There are to many factors for me to just say yes or no.
yes, you can raise the boost to 21psi with the MBC.
However, the P2 program is set to run 19-20psi. At 21 psi you might see issues. Try it if you want, be sure to use the best gas you can get and if you detect any problems or issues, drop the boost accordingly.
Safe for the engine? There are to many factors for me to just say yes or no.
You'll know you've gone too far on your boost if you hit fuel cut (not rev limiter - common mistake). When I spoke to Pete he said you guys left the fuel cut intact so I could just have that safety mechanism incase I overboost.
there are other things you can do to your car to get more power. i used to tune my blown mustang (13 aftercooled psi) with a laptop and spent a lot of time ironing out the driveability and getting the timing and fuel just right for the most power vs. a decent safety margin for bad gas, hot weather, etc.
you can usually get 2 or maybe 3 degrees of timing by running a step or two colder spark plug. not sure if the evo has cold plugs to begin with, but considering they ship the same plugs to cold *** states, im sure they're hot enough for 0 degree weather. warm climate owners should try to recoup some of their warm air losses.
you can also increase your cooling reserve. artificially with a lower temp thermostat (could increase oil pollution too, so you might need more frequent changes) and/or physically with a larger radiator or other cooling system upgrades.
Pulling my mustang up a long hill from third to the top of fourth (~120) really was the best test. if I could do that without pinging, it would be safe for the hardest driving i could throw at it whenever i wanted, even in the heat and climbing a mountain with the AC on.
One of the frustrating things for me was the mustang's front end. by the time i added in the blower kit (10 rib belt) and the aftercooler system (heat exchanger|condensor|BeCool thick *** radiator), there was hardly any room for air to flow in and out. i put a larger air dam under the rad support and that alone blew my mind. it made a huge difference. i think that alone got me a couple of degrees on my tuning hill.
-shamelessly peddling my idea-
the Evo has the natural advantage (and another source for my love of the car) of a nearly straight air path through the radiator and out the hood. it cools far better both at stop and on the go.
IMO, and I have stated the idea to Works, they (or someone)should somehow develop a carbon fiber (or something suitable) hood vent lip that sits atop and exaggerates the stock hood's lip. such a device would create a huge increase in the vacuum at the hood vent and pull the hot air out, which would bring a HUGE benefit to high-speed tuning conditions. this is a problem area because of the Evo's heat soak issues, which is just a natural snafu of big HP/small-mass engines.
some little add-on aero part could bring several degrees of timing (nothing insignificant) or allow a leaner AFR. the only disadvantage is that it would need to be road tuned for a truly accurate resetting of the HP Curve (which will get more benefit the higher the speedo goes) and then left on the car all the time, so it would have to look really cool.
just some ideas...
you can usually get 2 or maybe 3 degrees of timing by running a step or two colder spark plug. not sure if the evo has cold plugs to begin with, but considering they ship the same plugs to cold *** states, im sure they're hot enough for 0 degree weather. warm climate owners should try to recoup some of their warm air losses.
you can also increase your cooling reserve. artificially with a lower temp thermostat (could increase oil pollution too, so you might need more frequent changes) and/or physically with a larger radiator or other cooling system upgrades.
Pulling my mustang up a long hill from third to the top of fourth (~120) really was the best test. if I could do that without pinging, it would be safe for the hardest driving i could throw at it whenever i wanted, even in the heat and climbing a mountain with the AC on.
One of the frustrating things for me was the mustang's front end. by the time i added in the blower kit (10 rib belt) and the aftercooler system (heat exchanger|condensor|BeCool thick *** radiator), there was hardly any room for air to flow in and out. i put a larger air dam under the rad support and that alone blew my mind. it made a huge difference. i think that alone got me a couple of degrees on my tuning hill.
-shamelessly peddling my idea-
the Evo has the natural advantage (and another source for my love of the car) of a nearly straight air path through the radiator and out the hood. it cools far better both at stop and on the go.
IMO, and I have stated the idea to Works, they (or someone)should somehow develop a carbon fiber (or something suitable) hood vent lip that sits atop and exaggerates the stock hood's lip. such a device would create a huge increase in the vacuum at the hood vent and pull the hot air out, which would bring a HUGE benefit to high-speed tuning conditions. this is a problem area because of the Evo's heat soak issues, which is just a natural snafu of big HP/small-mass engines.
some little add-on aero part could bring several degrees of timing (nothing insignificant) or allow a leaner AFR. the only disadvantage is that it would need to be road tuned for a truly accurate resetting of the HP Curve (which will get more benefit the higher the speedo goes) and then left on the car all the time, so it would have to look really cool.
just some ideas...
Last edited by Turbocake; Mar 12, 2004 at 01:34 AM.


