DIY retrofitted headlamps
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DIY retrofitted headlamps
Thought I’d post up a little project I was working on. In my efforts to find better lighting solutions and update the lighting to more modern day technology rather than the old 90’s stuff, I bought a set of clear glass headlamps and was going to put an aftermarket HID kit in them. Being unsatisfied with the poor output and glare it would like many you see running around out there (annoying, unsafe and blinding for others), I took another avenue to make a true HID system. True HID systems consist of using true HID projectors not halogen projectors with HID lighting to achieve true HID. I like many found out the hard way that ebay projectors headlamps were pathetic units, so those were returned in a heartbeat. Reason for this is the manufacturers do not utilize a true HID projector and the projectors lens vary in types of design to mimic HID color band and outputs. Basically you pay for what you get. Ultimately because they are not authentic HID projector the headlights would cause even poorer output than OEM lighting. Ultimately to do it right you got to do it yourself, so off I went. So my headlamp setup is TSX projectors with E46 replica shrouds, Phillips 85122+ bulbs and an aftermarket 55 watt ballast HID kit.
Hope ya'll like, enjoy
Here is my DIY guide for the Mirage/Summit/Colt/Evo or practically any car retrofit guide.
Lists of tools and parts needed:
Parts:
- Clear lens headlamps either with glass lens or plastic lens.
- Authentic HID projectors (depending on your setup bi-xenon, single beam projector, dual single beam projector etc.)
- Bolts and nuts vary on amount depending on how you decide to mount your projector.
- Shrouds (optional) can be aftermarket, OEM or make your own shrouds.
- Butyl silicone (optional) used to reseal headlight if needed but the stock sealant in the channel should be sufficient
- 100% silicone (used to seal the perimeter of housing and if you like shrouds)
- JB weld (optional) used to secure shroud, bolts, nuts etc.)
- Loctite (optional) used to secure nuts and bolts)
Tools:
- Oven, baking sheet, oven mitts
- Black permanent marker
- Dremel with cutting discs, grinders etc. basically everything in a Dremel kit will assist you do the job. Lastly patience, take your time and never rush anything.
- Flat head screwdriver
- Philips screwdriver
- Clamps (optional) used to seal up the lens and housing
- 600-800 grit sandpaper (optional) if you want to paint your housing.
- Rubbing alcohol
- Q-tips
***methods mentioned below work well for a inner housing that has a flat bottom***
1. Remove any clips around the perimeter of the headlight housing once you have removed your headlights from the car.
2. Place a baking sheet in the middle of the oven
3. Preheat oven to 250-300 degrees FARENHEIT (depends on your oven)
4. Once it has reached the desired temperature place one headlamp at a time glass lens facing down on the rack unless if its plastic then just put the base facing down, leaving it in there for 4-7 minutes depending on your oven. This is done to loosen the glue so you can separate the front lens front the back of the housing.
5. Once it has reached the desired temperature cautiously remove the headlamps using your oven mitts because it’s HOT.
6. Take your flat head screw driver and begin to pry the front lens apart from the back housing going around the perimeter of the housing, starting at the corners is a good idea. You might have to put it back in the oven if you can’t pry it apart to loosen the glue again because the glue can get hard really fast.
7. Do steps 1-6 for the other side headlamp.
8. Now that it’s separated you need to remove the inner housing, take your Philips screwdriver and unscrew the adjusting screws that hold the inner housing. ***NOTE once the screws are screwed all the way out, usually there is a clip still holding the inner housing, pulling out on the inner housing will release the clip.***
9. Make straight line marks with your permanent marker on the inside and outside of the inner housing showing the direction of the original bulb. You will want to mount your projector using these lines to ensure your projector is straight.
10. Make a guide on the back of the inner housing of where you intend to cut with your dremel probably ¾ of an inch around the original mounting of the bulb.
11. Start dremeling the back of the housing!
12. Once the dremeling is done you can now try and test fit your projector.
13. Depending on how you decide to mount your projector either by L brackets or long bolts just make sure the projector is aimed straight, no different that how the OEM bulb was facing. Do not be concerned with leveling as the adjustment screws will take care of that later; just make sure you mount the projector STRAIGHT!
14. Being satisfied that things are in order make your marks where you intend to mount the projector and then drill your holes.
15. Test fit everything again to ensure it’s all copasetic this time putting your bolts and nuts to hold the projector in the housing.
16. You can choose to install a shroud at this point so I won’t get into this much as it’s a whole lengthy discussion, possibilities are limitless for this. (You can be creative I know you can do it.)
17. You can also paint your housing at this point with the projector out. Up to you if you want to prep the surface by sanding, which I always recommend before painting anything. 600-800 grit wet sanding will do.
18. Secure the projector with your nuts and bolts.
19. Test fit your retrofit on the car making sure the orientation of the projector is straight.
20. Permanently secure your projectors with JBweld or Loctite on the bolts and nuts.
21. If you used shrouds use 100% silicone or JB weld to secure it to the projector or inner housing. Allow JB weld or silicone to cure then proceed to #22.
22. Clean your projector lens, front lens and everything else clean with q-tips and rubbing alcohol or whatever you think will ensure its clean
23. You can begin prepping the oven with steps #2 and #3 again. The stock butyl glue on the housing if usually good enough otherwise if you think you need more, put butyl glue into the channel before proceeding to step # 24.
24. Once the oven has reached correct operating temp. put the front lens on the back of the housing and repeat step #4.
25. Take the headlights out and press them together, you can use your clamps at this point to hold things together.
26. Apply 100% silicone around the perimeter of the headlights smearing it to ensure a good seal. This will prevent any leaking or seeping.
27. Put your retrofitted headlamps back on your ride, and begin leveling your projectors with the stock adjustment screws at the back of the housing.
28. Stand back and enjoy the pleasures of your work.
Now you have your own guideline on how to begin retrofitting your ride. Best of luck ya’ll
If ya'll have any questions please feel free to ask.
Hope ya'll like, enjoy
Here is my DIY guide for the Mirage/Summit/Colt/Evo or practically any car retrofit guide.
Lists of tools and parts needed:
Parts:
- Clear lens headlamps either with glass lens or plastic lens.
- Authentic HID projectors (depending on your setup bi-xenon, single beam projector, dual single beam projector etc.)
- Bolts and nuts vary on amount depending on how you decide to mount your projector.
- Shrouds (optional) can be aftermarket, OEM or make your own shrouds.
- Butyl silicone (optional) used to reseal headlight if needed but the stock sealant in the channel should be sufficient
- 100% silicone (used to seal the perimeter of housing and if you like shrouds)
- JB weld (optional) used to secure shroud, bolts, nuts etc.)
- Loctite (optional) used to secure nuts and bolts)
Tools:
- Oven, baking sheet, oven mitts
- Black permanent marker
- Dremel with cutting discs, grinders etc. basically everything in a Dremel kit will assist you do the job. Lastly patience, take your time and never rush anything.
- Flat head screwdriver
- Philips screwdriver
- Clamps (optional) used to seal up the lens and housing
- 600-800 grit sandpaper (optional) if you want to paint your housing.
- Rubbing alcohol
- Q-tips
***methods mentioned below work well for a inner housing that has a flat bottom***
1. Remove any clips around the perimeter of the headlight housing once you have removed your headlights from the car.
2. Place a baking sheet in the middle of the oven
3. Preheat oven to 250-300 degrees FARENHEIT (depends on your oven)
4. Once it has reached the desired temperature place one headlamp at a time glass lens facing down on the rack unless if its plastic then just put the base facing down, leaving it in there for 4-7 minutes depending on your oven. This is done to loosen the glue so you can separate the front lens front the back of the housing.
5. Once it has reached the desired temperature cautiously remove the headlamps using your oven mitts because it’s HOT.
6. Take your flat head screw driver and begin to pry the front lens apart from the back housing going around the perimeter of the housing, starting at the corners is a good idea. You might have to put it back in the oven if you can’t pry it apart to loosen the glue again because the glue can get hard really fast.
7. Do steps 1-6 for the other side headlamp.
8. Now that it’s separated you need to remove the inner housing, take your Philips screwdriver and unscrew the adjusting screws that hold the inner housing. ***NOTE once the screws are screwed all the way out, usually there is a clip still holding the inner housing, pulling out on the inner housing will release the clip.***
9. Make straight line marks with your permanent marker on the inside and outside of the inner housing showing the direction of the original bulb. You will want to mount your projector using these lines to ensure your projector is straight.
10. Make a guide on the back of the inner housing of where you intend to cut with your dremel probably ¾ of an inch around the original mounting of the bulb.
11. Start dremeling the back of the housing!
12. Once the dremeling is done you can now try and test fit your projector.
13. Depending on how you decide to mount your projector either by L brackets or long bolts just make sure the projector is aimed straight, no different that how the OEM bulb was facing. Do not be concerned with leveling as the adjustment screws will take care of that later; just make sure you mount the projector STRAIGHT!
14. Being satisfied that things are in order make your marks where you intend to mount the projector and then drill your holes.
15. Test fit everything again to ensure it’s all copasetic this time putting your bolts and nuts to hold the projector in the housing.
16. You can choose to install a shroud at this point so I won’t get into this much as it’s a whole lengthy discussion, possibilities are limitless for this. (You can be creative I know you can do it.)
17. You can also paint your housing at this point with the projector out. Up to you if you want to prep the surface by sanding, which I always recommend before painting anything. 600-800 grit wet sanding will do.
18. Secure the projector with your nuts and bolts.
19. Test fit your retrofit on the car making sure the orientation of the projector is straight.
20. Permanently secure your projectors with JBweld or Loctite on the bolts and nuts.
21. If you used shrouds use 100% silicone or JB weld to secure it to the projector or inner housing. Allow JB weld or silicone to cure then proceed to #22.
22. Clean your projector lens, front lens and everything else clean with q-tips and rubbing alcohol or whatever you think will ensure its clean
23. You can begin prepping the oven with steps #2 and #3 again. The stock butyl glue on the housing if usually good enough otherwise if you think you need more, put butyl glue into the channel before proceeding to step # 24.
24. Once the oven has reached correct operating temp. put the front lens on the back of the housing and repeat step #4.
25. Take the headlights out and press them together, you can use your clamps at this point to hold things together.
26. Apply 100% silicone around the perimeter of the headlights smearing it to ensure a good seal. This will prevent any leaking or seeping.
27. Put your retrofitted headlamps back on your ride, and begin leveling your projectors with the stock adjustment screws at the back of the housing.
28. Stand back and enjoy the pleasures of your work.
Now you have your own guideline on how to begin retrofitting your ride. Best of luck ya’ll
If ya'll have any questions please feel free to ask.
#2
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Heres another retrofit I finished recently for a friend, the output it amazing, cutoff is colourful. Its an 04 accord.
Btw you will never see my riding or driving anything without a true HID system from now on hehe
Btw you will never see my riding or driving anything without a true HID system from now on hehe
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HID projectors can be found from the bmw's, tsx's, tl's, murano's, fx's, audi's etc.
HID ballasts can go either OEM from those types of cars or aftermarket ballasts.
HID bulbs you can also go with OEM or aftermarket but for the most part those projectors take only one type of bulb (D2S).
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well I am getting my headlamps back from homieG, I may turn around and sell them on ebay . they would be good for someone planning a retrofit / projector design. one is damaged moderately while the other just has a few scratches. this is from the accident. a while back
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not sure mate as I have never measured the inside housing of the 05 evo, but from the looks of it for later and earlier evos it looks like it can be done. the projectors you should be using from like bmw's, mercedes, acuras audis etc. all take d2s bulbs.
I got a bunch of PM from locals who want me to do thier retro fits so I will pm ya'll tomorrow as I'm really tired and need to get some shut eye. just aheads up though is that I don't do this for the $$ so if you want to pay me anything at all its up to you.
peace
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