9MR Trans Cooler Complete & Data
Sep 3, 2012, 12:34 AM
#1
9MR Trans Cooler Complete & Data
I have some details on my trans cooler project and some data to let people draw their own conclusions.
The quick back story, for those have don't know it from other threads, is that I road race my car and last year I blew my TCase and 2nd and 4th syncros were already done. I was running barely 300HP then, and both failures are more user error, than 6 speed. However, heat was likely the key factor in all failures. When the TC went I decided to get everything addressed and sent the whole thing to ShepTrans for the built 6 speeds with gear set, and Final Drive swap.
More details in my build post when I finally get around to writing something up.
packed on pallet because the 6 speed is over the UPS freight limit.
As most of you can relate that led me down the spiral of modding....We'll since that is out and will be a while, why not pull the engine, oh then why not delete the balance shafts, oh and mod the diff, oh and.......One of the hundreds of things that ended up on that list is a mod to build a trans cooler, so when I got my rather pricey trans back I would be doing something to keep it from cooking itself again.
I purchased the Mishimoto radiator and fan kit, and an RB Motorsports pump and filter. The first key task was to fab up where this stuff was going to be mounted. Brackets, etc.
After much back and forth I opted for the passenger section behind the engine oil cooler. Why, because the ducting for the engine oil cooler was already there, there was enough space, and modding the brackets for the engine oil cooler to also accept the trans cooler setup was relatively simple. Also I figured the engine oil radiator would benefit from the fan I was adding to the system behind it.
Here is the setup installed behind the engine oil cooler.
Here is a shot of the engine oil radiator, Trans radiator and Trans radiator fan sandwich.
In another thread when I posted that I did get a bit of criticism or warning that mounting the cooler there would likely heat it more than cool it, since the engine oil cooler may operate at 280F, which I didn't know. The argument made sense and I started to second guess my choice.
More recently I pulled everything off of the front and decided that I would mount the radiator and fan in the drivers side behind the ACD pump. However, that required relocating the ACD pump 1.5 inches forward. I took everything out of the front corner and starting fabbing that up, however about part way in the snarl of steel brackets and other restrictions made me second guess that choice too. dammit. The fan was just causing too much of an issue mounted there as well.
It was at that point I rationalized that I probably don't need the fan, because the use of this system is really only from track driving, during which i will be at speeds that will greatly exceed the fan's ability to suck air. Duh, obvious, and then my options for locations opened up again. If I didn't need the fan, then the radiator would fit behind my IC and in front of the AC radiator in the grill. I could leave the ACD pump where it was and simply add some brackets to mount the RB pump there as well.
First up a quick fix was needed as the ACD bracketry was actually rubbing on my nesei IC pipe, so I had to grind down the brackets to create some good 3/8 inch clearance.
Here is the Trans radiator mounted. Two relatlivey simple fabbed up brackets to mount into strong existing threaded locations.
Here is the beginning of the first of two brackets that will hold the pump using strong existing locations. Stock flat aluminum is strong and very light, and when you bend it around its even stronger.
Here is the 3 brackets installed. The main twisted one located to the bottom two ACD pump bracket bolts, and two bolts on the left onto the frame rail (pre existing). The right twisted one locates to an existing thread in the upper fender, and finally the plate to hold the pump itself.
Here is the pump mounted (the photo is a bit washed out, because my iphone didn't survive my engine build that easily). The left side is in the Input and the right side is the Output.
Here is a view from the ground up at the Trans fill hole and the entry point of the cooled oil (top left), then the oil filter (in the red box), and then the exit point at the drain plug location.
The flow: Out of the Trans drain plug with a fitting that is 18mm by 1.5mm thread and AN6 (or better AN8) to fit a 90 degree AN fitting that has hose barb end. In my case 3/8 standard Trans cooler hose that rates to 300F. A small section of hose to the filter I purchased at RB, the filter needs NPT threaded pieces into it with hose barb ends. Then out the filter into the pump, which requires going from hose to another AN fitting with hose barb to AN6, then to AN6 piece with British parallel 3/8 (BP has a rubber Oring, is not tapered and required by the pump itself. Then out of the pump in the same manner of connections, to the radiator which thankfully has hosebarb on it, then out of the radiator and into the trans fill hole, which is a mirror of the setup for the drain.
Holy connectors batman. Yes,
I now know what NTP, AN, and BP are.
NTP - tapered, and you can find it at any hardware store as its standard.
AN - Is from an Army and Navy standard developed after WWII with all kinds of fittings, particularly bends that allow you to set the orientation and then tighten without moving the orientation. (NTP, doesn't allow for this, and the scenario where your fitting moves around is called clocking I believe).
BP - Is British Parallel and uses a relatively shallow set of threads with an ORing seal. The key here is its NOT tapered.
Now to some details. You'll see in this close up the number of connections needed, and therefore the number of possible points of failure of this setup.
Each arrow represents a possible leak point, and an oil system that before the cooling could really only leak from a trans that broke or maybe either the fill or drain plug failing now has 18 connection points. This is a key piece of information for anyone thinking of building something like this, because if I would have comprehended that I probably would not have gone forward and bought the parts for the mod.
In fact I nearly pulled the plug on the whole thing even after installing it all because of the risk involved for the sake of cooling the trans to some unknown benefit or safety margin. That had me thinking of needing to prove somehow the effectiveness of the setup to decide to leave it or remove it.
The quick back story, for those have don't know it from other threads, is that I road race my car and last year I blew my TCase and 2nd and 4th syncros were already done. I was running barely 300HP then, and both failures are more user error, than 6 speed. However, heat was likely the key factor in all failures. When the TC went I decided to get everything addressed and sent the whole thing to ShepTrans for the built 6 speeds with gear set, and Final Drive swap.
More details in my build post when I finally get around to writing something up.
packed on pallet because the 6 speed is over the UPS freight limit.
As most of you can relate that led me down the spiral of modding....We'll since that is out and will be a while, why not pull the engine, oh then why not delete the balance shafts, oh and mod the diff, oh and.......One of the hundreds of things that ended up on that list is a mod to build a trans cooler, so when I got my rather pricey trans back I would be doing something to keep it from cooking itself again.
I purchased the Mishimoto radiator and fan kit, and an RB Motorsports pump and filter. The first key task was to fab up where this stuff was going to be mounted. Brackets, etc.
After much back and forth I opted for the passenger section behind the engine oil cooler. Why, because the ducting for the engine oil cooler was already there, there was enough space, and modding the brackets for the engine oil cooler to also accept the trans cooler setup was relatively simple. Also I figured the engine oil radiator would benefit from the fan I was adding to the system behind it.
Here is the setup installed behind the engine oil cooler.
Here is a shot of the engine oil radiator, Trans radiator and Trans radiator fan sandwich.
In another thread when I posted that I did get a bit of criticism or warning that mounting the cooler there would likely heat it more than cool it, since the engine oil cooler may operate at 280F, which I didn't know. The argument made sense and I started to second guess my choice.
More recently I pulled everything off of the front and decided that I would mount the radiator and fan in the drivers side behind the ACD pump. However, that required relocating the ACD pump 1.5 inches forward. I took everything out of the front corner and starting fabbing that up, however about part way in the snarl of steel brackets and other restrictions made me second guess that choice too. dammit. The fan was just causing too much of an issue mounted there as well.
It was at that point I rationalized that I probably don't need the fan, because the use of this system is really only from track driving, during which i will be at speeds that will greatly exceed the fan's ability to suck air. Duh, obvious, and then my options for locations opened up again. If I didn't need the fan, then the radiator would fit behind my IC and in front of the AC radiator in the grill. I could leave the ACD pump where it was and simply add some brackets to mount the RB pump there as well.
First up a quick fix was needed as the ACD bracketry was actually rubbing on my nesei IC pipe, so I had to grind down the brackets to create some good 3/8 inch clearance.
Here is the Trans radiator mounted. Two relatlivey simple fabbed up brackets to mount into strong existing threaded locations.
Here is the beginning of the first of two brackets that will hold the pump using strong existing locations. Stock flat aluminum is strong and very light, and when you bend it around its even stronger.
Here is the 3 brackets installed. The main twisted one located to the bottom two ACD pump bracket bolts, and two bolts on the left onto the frame rail (pre existing). The right twisted one locates to an existing thread in the upper fender, and finally the plate to hold the pump itself.
Here is the pump mounted (the photo is a bit washed out, because my iphone didn't survive my engine build that easily). The left side is in the Input and the right side is the Output.
Here is a view from the ground up at the Trans fill hole and the entry point of the cooled oil (top left), then the oil filter (in the red box), and then the exit point at the drain plug location.
The flow: Out of the Trans drain plug with a fitting that is 18mm by 1.5mm thread and AN6 (or better AN8) to fit a 90 degree AN fitting that has hose barb end. In my case 3/8 standard Trans cooler hose that rates to 300F. A small section of hose to the filter I purchased at RB, the filter needs NPT threaded pieces into it with hose barb ends. Then out the filter into the pump, which requires going from hose to another AN fitting with hose barb to AN6, then to AN6 piece with British parallel 3/8 (BP has a rubber Oring, is not tapered and required by the pump itself. Then out of the pump in the same manner of connections, to the radiator which thankfully has hosebarb on it, then out of the radiator and into the trans fill hole, which is a mirror of the setup for the drain.
Holy connectors batman. Yes,
I now know what NTP, AN, and BP are.NTP - tapered, and you can find it at any hardware store as its standard.
AN - Is from an Army and Navy standard developed after WWII with all kinds of fittings, particularly bends that allow you to set the orientation and then tighten without moving the orientation. (NTP, doesn't allow for this, and the scenario where your fitting moves around is called clocking I believe).
BP - Is British Parallel and uses a relatively shallow set of threads with an ORing seal. The key here is its NOT tapered.
Now to some details. You'll see in this close up the number of connections needed, and therefore the number of possible points of failure of this setup.
Each arrow represents a possible leak point, and an oil system that before the cooling could really only leak from a trans that broke or maybe either the fill or drain plug failing now has 18 connection points. This is a key piece of information for anyone thinking of building something like this, because if I would have comprehended that I probably would not have gone forward and bought the parts for the mod.
In fact I nearly pulled the plug on the whole thing even after installing it all because of the risk involved for the sake of cooling the trans to some unknown benefit or safety margin. That had me thinking of needing to prove somehow the effectiveness of the setup to decide to leave it or remove it.
Last edited by fireroasted; Sep 4, 2012 at 11:42 PM. Reason: grammer
Sep 3, 2012, 12:35 AM
#2
So I ran a track day at CA Speedway without the pump setup, and I used an IR heat thermometer to measure the temperatures of the trans at the drain plug, the end casing, and the fill plug. These numbers are likely open for argument on the accuracy or even relevance as direct temperature values, but they will provide meaning when the same method is used to measure the temps with the pump running on another track day.
I measure those locations before and after each track session. Again, this is without the pump system and with factory drain and fill plugs, and slightly overfilled trans. Ambient temps are a high of 109F on this day.
So the generalization or take away from the above data is that I heated the trans or trans oil 60-70 degrees during each run. I had perfectly shifting trans for the whole day with no issues. A side note here is in the details of what broke and why, but its too long to bore you here. The clutch is now very well adjusted so there is no hint of lockout, and so no clutch drag and therefore expected no syncro issues. However my reading puts the trans oil effectiveness limit at about 250, maybe 280, so 230 was getting pretty close. I could conclude that these were the hottest conditions for this type of abuse, and that one track session with at least a 1 hour cool down back to 150F temps is a great long term solution. Theoretically therefore not requiring a trans cooling setup, as long as you track for one 25 minute session and provide amble cool down time. I used to run back to back to back sessions in the past to maximize my track time dollar. (I don't recommend this no matter what).
However, I bought it, so I finished building it, and then I tracked it. This last Saturday I did Big Willow Springs, another fast track, and this time used the pump. I was nervous as hell, since I spent more than a week chasing down leaking connections. Just wetness, no gushers, but leaks still the same. I also had to try and calculate a volume increase needed to keep the same amount of oil in the trans since much of it was now being pumped through pipes nothing to do with the trans.
So a few things are certain even if the method or actual F temps aren't that accurate. The trans cooler setup kept the temps much cooler than without. In my scale of measuring always under 180F, or about 60F less. Ambient temps on this day were 100F, so cooler than the previous track day, and its a different track. So its difficult to find absolutes, but the trends in the data show the cooler doing what its supposed to.
Now the question for anyone, and myself, is the cooler setup, with its added risk of trans oil loss worth the added thermal protection it provides. A couple of other things to think about, the RB pump is heavy. Its some kind of brass worm gear thing, and the housing is essentially a brass brick. The radiator weighs nothing, but there is the added oil hoses, and fittings. There is the paranoia of me always looking under the car for trans oil leaks. I contacted Jon and ShepTrans and he commented bluntly that if I lose a quart or so the trans is done, and if I hear it, its too late. The real striking comment which I didn't consider is, if you lose trans oil in a burst you will likely drive through it and go off track, and have lots more problems than just your trans. That puts a damper on the oil cooler party, doesn't it.
So far the performance of the setup has me back on track and wanting to keep the setup and just monitor for leakage.
This is the page for the pump.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
I am using the 1034 version, or medium size. If doing it again, and not being a full race car, I might opt to experiment with a cheapo tilton pump. The RB setup is awesome, but the receipt was 400 bucks after a couple of connectors, filter and pump.
I bought the mishimoto cooler and fan kit from MAP.
http://www.maperformance.com/mishimo...al-mmoc-f.html
If I was doing it again, I wouldn't bother. It was expensive, and nothing in it demands that cost from what I could tell. I checked several OReily and common big truck brand radiators, and they are exactly the same. I spent 150 or something like that, and those common parts store units are all 39 bucks or so. You can tell in many cases those radiator units came off of the same assembly line. Its likely a JDM markup thing from what I could tell. I am not sure the brand would have impacted my temp values in my experiment in a material way.
You'll need a 100 bucks in fittings, and I suggest googling the above mentioned connection types so you don't waste weeks like I did buying crap and ordering it online or driving all over to realize you don't know what the heck you are talking about or buying.
Places worth a mention:
http://mcfaddendale.incomsupply.com
Macfadden Supply was helpful for basic NPT stuff. Great place, but not for automotive guys really.
http://www.hillcofasteners.com/default.aspx
Hilco fasteners was awesome, they have everything as long as you know what the heck you need.
The place with the solution: TMR
This guys can make anything you would need, and is essentially a machine shop for racing folks. He had anything I asked for. I couldn't find the website, and maybe there isn't one, but here is the contact info.
(714) 771-1348
2346 N PACIFIC ST
ORANGE, CA 92865-2618
It does look mean like this though.....
I measure those locations before and after each track session. Again, this is without the pump system and with factory drain and fill plugs, and slightly overfilled trans. Ambient temps are a high of 109F on this day.
So the generalization or take away from the above data is that I heated the trans or trans oil 60-70 degrees during each run. I had perfectly shifting trans for the whole day with no issues. A side note here is in the details of what broke and why, but its too long to bore you here. The clutch is now very well adjusted so there is no hint of lockout, and so no clutch drag and therefore expected no syncro issues. However my reading puts the trans oil effectiveness limit at about 250, maybe 280, so 230 was getting pretty close. I could conclude that these were the hottest conditions for this type of abuse, and that one track session with at least a 1 hour cool down back to 150F temps is a great long term solution. Theoretically therefore not requiring a trans cooling setup, as long as you track for one 25 minute session and provide amble cool down time. I used to run back to back to back sessions in the past to maximize my track time dollar. (I don't recommend this no matter what).
However, I bought it, so I finished building it, and then I tracked it. This last Saturday I did Big Willow Springs, another fast track, and this time used the pump. I was nervous as hell, since I spent more than a week chasing down leaking connections. Just wetness, no gushers, but leaks still the same. I also had to try and calculate a volume increase needed to keep the same amount of oil in the trans since much of it was now being pumped through pipes nothing to do with the trans.
So a few things are certain even if the method or actual F temps aren't that accurate. The trans cooler setup kept the temps much cooler than without. In my scale of measuring always under 180F, or about 60F less. Ambient temps on this day were 100F, so cooler than the previous track day, and its a different track. So its difficult to find absolutes, but the trends in the data show the cooler doing what its supposed to.
Now the question for anyone, and myself, is the cooler setup, with its added risk of trans oil loss worth the added thermal protection it provides. A couple of other things to think about, the RB pump is heavy. Its some kind of brass worm gear thing, and the housing is essentially a brass brick. The radiator weighs nothing, but there is the added oil hoses, and fittings. There is the paranoia of me always looking under the car for trans oil leaks. I contacted Jon and ShepTrans and he commented bluntly that if I lose a quart or so the trans is done, and if I hear it, its too late. The real striking comment which I didn't consider is, if you lose trans oil in a burst you will likely drive through it and go off track, and have lots more problems than just your trans. That puts a damper on the oil cooler party, doesn't it.
So far the performance of the setup has me back on track and wanting to keep the setup and just monitor for leakage.
This is the page for the pump.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
I am using the 1034 version, or medium size. If doing it again, and not being a full race car, I might opt to experiment with a cheapo tilton pump. The RB setup is awesome, but the receipt was 400 bucks after a couple of connectors, filter and pump.
I bought the mishimoto cooler and fan kit from MAP.
http://www.maperformance.com/mishimo...al-mmoc-f.html
If I was doing it again, I wouldn't bother. It was expensive, and nothing in it demands that cost from what I could tell. I checked several OReily and common big truck brand radiators, and they are exactly the same. I spent 150 or something like that, and those common parts store units are all 39 bucks or so. You can tell in many cases those radiator units came off of the same assembly line. Its likely a JDM markup thing from what I could tell. I am not sure the brand would have impacted my temp values in my experiment in a material way.
You'll need a 100 bucks in fittings, and I suggest googling the above mentioned connection types so you don't waste weeks like I did buying crap and ordering it online or driving all over to realize you don't know what the heck you are talking about or buying.
Places worth a mention:
http://mcfaddendale.incomsupply.com
Macfadden Supply was helpful for basic NPT stuff. Great place, but not for automotive guys really.
http://www.hillcofasteners.com/default.aspx
Hilco fasteners was awesome, they have everything as long as you know what the heck you need.
The place with the solution: TMR
This guys can make anything you would need, and is essentially a machine shop for racing folks. He had anything I asked for. I couldn't find the website, and maybe there isn't one, but here is the contact info.
(714) 771-1348
2346 N PACIFIC ST
ORANGE, CA 92865-2618
It does look mean like this though.....
Last edited by fireroasted; Sep 4, 2012 at 11:51 PM. Reason: grammer
Sep 3, 2012, 05:49 AM
#3
excellent data. thanks for taking the time.
your first planned location would have worked just fine as well. the air going through eng oil cooler would heat air first. but that doesnt negate ability for that air to still grab heat from trans cooler. the biggest factor is CFM of air moved across cooler. not the starting temp of the air moving across it,.
your first planned location would have worked just fine as well. the air going through eng oil cooler would heat air first. but that doesnt negate ability for that air to still grab heat from trans cooler. the biggest factor is CFM of air moved across cooler. not the starting temp of the air moving across it,.
Sep 3, 2012, 07:04 AM
#4
Sep 3, 2012, 10:15 AM
#6
Nice job on the measurements. Would like to mention that it wouldn't be too hard to log gear oil temperature. Output from a thermistor style temperature sensor can be fed into the ECU using the fuel tank temperature input. My thought would be to buy a Mitsu fuel tank temperaure sensor, and insert it into the gear oil path as it comes out of the gearbox.
Sep 3, 2012, 12:40 PM
#7
I am open to completing the portion of logging temps. I had made a mention or two of that in other posts, but no bites specifically. I would like to do that and if someone can provide the addresses and ecu (flash & scan) instructions. I can finish up the details in this thread.
I have looked around at sensors, but wasn't sure what electronic sensor would work and therefore not be a waste of money. (um, more money if you saw the amount of connectors I purchased and had to return for the above)
The only downside I could see with doing that is needing to add another set of possible failure points to the system.
I actually think the 9MR should have come with some kind of temp sensor in the trans that at the very least gave you a CEL after 200F. If anyone is considering the trans work from any of the trans shops, then they should ask for the casing to be tapped for the item. Not a big deal when the thing is apart. I asked, but didn't have a plan so I was too late and unclear. I was told to use the drain and fill plugs and is fine, but knowing what I know now I would rather have the In and Out of the system as separate holes.
So effectively I am recommending 3 additional holes be tapped. Maybe an AN8 bung could be welded for the In and Out as this would eliminate several possible points of failure, though you might want to make sure you have something to act as a plug for AN8 if you do that.
The thermostat tap could be whatever is exactly needed for the unit, so sending it with the trans to the shop would be best. This way you can locate it in the bottom/sump to truly temp the oil.
Having the stock drain plug and fill plug can greatly help the ease of refilling and adjusting the quantity. Keeping it simple, in that you just run the pump and fill as you normally would. Since the pump is running and contains fluid, but its running from separate locations you will also get the amount of oil right without any measuring. This is a BIG deal when wanting to have ease of maintenance for the long run.
Draining and Filling would also not risk any of your more complex connections getting losing or degraded by repeated use. So that you get it all set and tight, and then just fiddle with the Drain and Fill plugs. Currently I have to mess with those complex pieces you see in the pics above, which has more risk in damaging them or their eventual seal.
MrFred, could using any sensor that gives me voltage work, or should it be the gas tank temp sensor as you noted? I'll see what the prices of that are.
I have looked around at sensors, but wasn't sure what electronic sensor would work and therefore not be a waste of money. (um, more money if you saw the amount of connectors I purchased and had to return for the above)
The only downside I could see with doing that is needing to add another set of possible failure points to the system.
I actually think the 9MR should have come with some kind of temp sensor in the trans that at the very least gave you a CEL after 200F. If anyone is considering the trans work from any of the trans shops, then they should ask for the casing to be tapped for the item. Not a big deal when the thing is apart. I asked, but didn't have a plan so I was too late and unclear. I was told to use the drain and fill plugs and is fine, but knowing what I know now I would rather have the In and Out of the system as separate holes.
So effectively I am recommending 3 additional holes be tapped. Maybe an AN8 bung could be welded for the In and Out as this would eliminate several possible points of failure, though you might want to make sure you have something to act as a plug for AN8 if you do that.
The thermostat tap could be whatever is exactly needed for the unit, so sending it with the trans to the shop would be best. This way you can locate it in the bottom/sump to truly temp the oil.
Having the stock drain plug and fill plug can greatly help the ease of refilling and adjusting the quantity. Keeping it simple, in that you just run the pump and fill as you normally would. Since the pump is running and contains fluid, but its running from separate locations you will also get the amount of oil right without any measuring. This is a BIG deal when wanting to have ease of maintenance for the long run.
Draining and Filling would also not risk any of your more complex connections getting losing or degraded by repeated use. So that you get it all set and tight, and then just fiddle with the Drain and Fill plugs. Currently I have to mess with those complex pieces you see in the pics above, which has more risk in damaging them or their eventual seal.
MrFred, could using any sensor that gives me voltage work, or should it be the gas tank temp sensor as you noted? I'll see what the prices of that are.
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Sep 4, 2012, 08:16 AM
#8
If your really worried about a line bursting then look into Stratoflex lines or similar.
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...ry=productline
Or invest in some hard lines..might save you some weight.
Auto trannys run coolers also, they last quite some time.
But good job, i myself might try that some day too.
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...ry=productline
Or invest in some hard lines..might save you some weight.
Auto trannys run coolers also, they last quite some time.
But good job, i myself might try that some day too.
Sep 4, 2012, 11:54 PM
#12
Yup, the trans cooler setup kept the trans at temperatures that it would see during normal freeway driving, 180F. Even after 25 minutes of abuse on track, its stayed at 180F. Without the cooler the trans heated to 230F. It worked surprisingly well.
Sep 5, 2012, 12:06 AM
#13
I couldn't google for a good picture of that part that isn't a line drawing. Maybe someone else has one. If not I can pop mine out of my fuel tank for a good look and post the pics after the weekend.
Sep 5, 2012, 07:10 AM
#14
yeah, that sensor is not going to work. a gm water temp sensor should get the job done:
http://www.034motorsport.com/034efi-...sak6e5qcjnsni3
use a T-fitting in the oil line leaving the gearbox. make sure that the sensor tip is in the oil flow path.
i think you mentioned some concern about the socketless fittings holding the pressure. isn't that stuff typically rated to at least 250 psi?
btw, the non-US 6-speed evos did come with a factory gearoil temp sensor. there's no evap emissions on those cars, so they used the spare temp input to monitor gearoil temp. as you suggested, i believe it triggers a cel when it reaches some threshold.
http://www.034motorsport.com/034efi-...sak6e5qcjnsni3
use a T-fitting in the oil line leaving the gearbox. make sure that the sensor tip is in the oil flow path.
i think you mentioned some concern about the socketless fittings holding the pressure. isn't that stuff typically rated to at least 250 psi?
btw, the non-US 6-speed evos did come with a factory gearoil temp sensor. there's no evap emissions on those cars, so they used the spare temp input to monitor gearoil temp. as you suggested, i believe it triggers a cel when it reaches some threshold.
Sep 5, 2012, 12:26 PM
#15
OK, Looks like an NTP fitting, and a T for that is pretty simple to find anywhere. Does the temp ratings seem like they go high enough?
I note that only because others that might want to just know the temp and not do a cooler mod, may need it to go to 250F, or so.
Not sure on the pressure comment, since that system is a 'sump' system. Which I suspect is the point you are getting at, there is essentially no pressure, only gravity. The comment I might have made about concerns is more about temps, or just the potential for general failure of any of the connectors from the environment rather than internal pressure.
That doc is from an AEM site.
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde....0;attach=4372
I note that only because others that might want to just know the temp and not do a cooler mod, may need it to go to 250F, or so.
Not sure on the pressure comment, since that system is a 'sump' system. Which I suspect is the point you are getting at, there is essentially no pressure, only gravity. The comment I might have made about concerns is more about temps, or just the potential for general failure of any of the connectors from the environment rather than internal pressure.
That doc is from an AEM site.
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde....0;attach=4372