LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I don't think the machined shop actually test the compression. they would have needed an engine stand with a war to mount the starter and spin the motor over. It would also be poor practice to do it without an intake manifold on the head with some kind of air filter. 185psi would be a fresh 9.5 or 10:1 motor.

4b11slayer

Yea the machine shop might have just jotted those numbers down off the dome.

Because 180 psi is usually found in a lot of engines so he probably just wanted to sound perfect.

Bzacharias

thats what I'm told by them. Idk what they do but they have some 80k dollar machines. I'm lost on what this thing needs

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It needs to be ran...


I think every machine shop has at least a few $80k machines...lol

Bzacharias

so you think it's ok to run then? If he says it's 8:8:1 then it should be stock. If something happens I guess it would be on him.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Yup.

HawkeyeGeoff

I was assuming that your setup had changed; almost all builds people add big turbos, EBCS, etc etc etc that require cal changes.

If you did not change any components other than just rebuilding the motor, you should be ready to rage and just control the break in with your right foot.

HawkeyeGeoff

100% this as well. If they give you a break in, follow it.

I have seen forced induction miata guys just start it, change the oil, then go run 10 naturually aspirated WOTs followed by full boost wots to seat the rings, change the oil and then rip it.

It is also good to note that Chrome (or any super hard metal) rings will need to be run more like this method to ensure good seating. Steel rings are a little bit easier to seat with just running mildly.

Remember, whatever you do, you want to make sure those bastards are seated before putting synthetic in the motor. If you put it in too soon, you will stop the seating process and be stuck with a motor that burns oil.

Hope this helps.

Biggiesacks

If nothing else has changed just the rebuild you don't need a retune. Just focus on putting everything back together correctly. Start it up, make sure there are no leaks and you have oil pressure and no CEL's. Then get it all the way up to operating temperature, the oil too not just the coolant, then go rip on it like you just robbed a bank.

Bzacharias

Thanks for the help. I'm gonna change the oil at 500 miles and use conventional for another 3,000 probably before I even switch to synthetic I think. I wanna make sure everything is seated good before I use any other oil

HawkeyeGeoff

Shouldn't have any issues then. GL brother.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

You should change the oil after the first 20 minutes or 20 miles or so of driving. Then change it again at 500 miles.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I'm pretty sure that's what I did.

jpete709

i say, get it running. make sure you have no misfire or leaks. record fuel trim. if fuel trim looks ok, do the break in. then find a good tuner. a good tuner would know the potential of the built engine with the given specs.

maikcat

THIS is good advice...

you do need to create vacuum for rings to seat properly

enjoy

Michael.