Why not RL Heavy Shock Proof in the TC?
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Why not RL Heavy Shock Proof in the TC?
The transfer case definiately seems to be a weak spot (relativily speaking). All thats in there is a ring and pinion, open front diff, and a sealed VCU. A heavier oil would provide greater protection for the gears, and there is no syncros or lsd components to worry about.
If half of what Red line claims about this lubricant is true (and I have no reason to doubt it), it provides greater protection, flows, and lubricates better than even a good 80-140 oil, and certainly certainly would be better than the stock 90 weight oil.
Yes it's thicker than there recommended 75-90 oil so that might cost you a little HP, but for the added protection it seems like a very good trade off. Plus according to them it still flows better than the stock 90 weight oil.
I know that some peope already recommend this lubricant for the transfer case, but others do not. I am just curious about those that do not recommend it, um,, why not?
If half of what Red line claims about this lubricant is true (and I have no reason to doubt it), it provides greater protection, flows, and lubricates better than even a good 80-140 oil, and certainly certainly would be better than the stock 90 weight oil.
Yes it's thicker than there recommended 75-90 oil so that might cost you a little HP, but for the added protection it seems like a very good trade off. Plus according to them it still flows better than the stock 90 weight oil.
I know that some peope already recommend this lubricant for the transfer case, but others do not. I am just curious about those that do not recommend it, um,, why not?
#2
On a side note, I was looking at some old bottles of Redline Shockproof light weight oil.
The color of the fluid was a chalky yellow, like a sulfur suspension. Does anyone know if that's the color it's supposed to be?
I had these bottles in the garage, exposed to temperature swings.
The color of the fluid was a chalky yellow, like a sulfur suspension. Does anyone know if that's the color it's supposed to be?
I had these bottles in the garage, exposed to temperature swings.
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i've seen shock proof red and blue..... both new bottles i believe the heavy is red and the light is bluish
as for running it straight i ithnk its too thick to run straight i know on the older dsm's it was recommended to mix 50/50 with gear oil
as for running it straight i ithnk its too thick to run straight i know on the older dsm's it was recommended to mix 50/50 with gear oil
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Shahul,
Is that the 75-90NS? Because the regular 75-90 already has friction modifiers and does not seem to need any additional additives. I am running the regular 75-90 straight and it seems to work just fine. Adding additional friction modifiers to that lube, while it may not be noticable on the street would reduce the torque biasing of the differential. From what I have learned you just want enough friction modifiers to let the differential operate smoothly when cornering at low speeds.
I sent an email to Red Line explaining the situation with the TC and asked about the pros and cons with their shock proof lubricants in the TC and rear diff. I will let you all know what they say.
From reading their site info it seems that for best fuel economy and power/efficiency they recommend using the lightest oil that provides adequate protection/lubrication for each application. Given the way most of us use these cars and the TC history, it does seem that the heavy shock proof may be a good idea.
BTW I recently put the heavy shock proof in the TC, and just before getting on the dyno for my cam gear test I changed the motor oil. I usually run Red line 10-30 but the shop only had 20-50, for road racing I thought well maybe I am better off with the 20-50 so... Anyway, on the dyno after changing these fluids I measured a good 5 to 7WHP drop! I suspect the motor oil was the bigger factor, Red line claims that for each oil weight grade you go up or down you can gain or loose 1 to 2 percent engine power. I basically went from a 30 weight to a 50 weight and there was a good 2% power loss, so I guess they weren't kidding about that.
Another important note, with the 20-50 oil I noticed significantly more valve lifter noise (loud ticking). I am switching to 10-40 for the summer and 10-30 in the winter, I am in TX so up north I would go even thinner.
Ferb, you seem to be our resident oil expert, any thoughts or advice?
Is that the 75-90NS? Because the regular 75-90 already has friction modifiers and does not seem to need any additional additives. I am running the regular 75-90 straight and it seems to work just fine. Adding additional friction modifiers to that lube, while it may not be noticable on the street would reduce the torque biasing of the differential. From what I have learned you just want enough friction modifiers to let the differential operate smoothly when cornering at low speeds.
I sent an email to Red Line explaining the situation with the TC and asked about the pros and cons with their shock proof lubricants in the TC and rear diff. I will let you all know what they say.
From reading their site info it seems that for best fuel economy and power/efficiency they recommend using the lightest oil that provides adequate protection/lubrication for each application. Given the way most of us use these cars and the TC history, it does seem that the heavy shock proof may be a good idea.
BTW I recently put the heavy shock proof in the TC, and just before getting on the dyno for my cam gear test I changed the motor oil. I usually run Red line 10-30 but the shop only had 20-50, for road racing I thought well maybe I am better off with the 20-50 so... Anyway, on the dyno after changing these fluids I measured a good 5 to 7WHP drop! I suspect the motor oil was the bigger factor, Red line claims that for each oil weight grade you go up or down you can gain or loose 1 to 2 percent engine power. I basically went from a 30 weight to a 50 weight and there was a good 2% power loss, so I guess they weren't kidding about that.
Another important note, with the 20-50 oil I noticed significantly more valve lifter noise (loud ticking). I am switching to 10-40 for the summer and 10-30 in the winter, I am in TX so up north I would go even thinner.
Ferb, you seem to be our resident oil expert, any thoughts or advice?
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I have been using Heavy shockproof in both t/case and rear diff, so far no problems.
I used 4quarts of friction mod....
I'm going to change out my fluid soon, but I'm still confuse about this matter. At 15K, what do you need to change out?
as for running it straight i ithnk its too thick to run straight i know on the older dsm's it was recommended to mix 50/50 with gear oil
The Heavy can be rated as 75W250 gear oil, but has the lower internal fluid friction of an SAE 75W90
BENEFIT SUMMARY
Greatest extreme-pressure protection
Lowest coefficient of friction available
Reduces temperatures dramatically
Provides thicker oil films between gear teeth
Completely resists throw-off
Reduces metal-to-metal contact
Compatible with petroleums and synthetics
Low fluid friction to improve power transfer
Provides gear teeth shock loading protection
Reduces gear noise
If the only trade off is slightly less HP, and with there claimed lower friction coefficient, Hp loss may be very little to none. I am now wondering if putting it in the transaxle maybe a good idea also? Maybe the light weight shock proof? Although the tranny seems to hold up well with standard 90 weight oil and I don't know what all of those shock proof additives would do to the yellow metals? I guess lets see what Red line recommends and everyone else has to say.
Could you tune the tranny lube with friction modifiers to get just the right amount of syncro engagement and lubrication?
I am thinking there must be some cons to using this shock proof lubricant, but right now I am just not seeing them, Anybody?
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Yes, but was that there relatively thin 75-90 or there shock proof oils that seem to offer far better protection?
The OEM 90 weight oil is definiately heavier than the Red line 75-90, so it should offer greater shock protection compared to the RL 75-90, but the shock proof looks as though it would be far supperior to the OEM lube.
There have already been faulty/damaged transfer cases with the OEM fluid so...
It seems that a heavier weight oil will certainly improve reliability, but to suggest there is one particular magic fluid that will suddenly make your TC bulet proof seems highly unlikely.
The OEM 90 weight oil is definiately heavier than the Red line 75-90, so it should offer greater shock protection compared to the RL 75-90, but the shock proof looks as though it would be far supperior to the OEM lube.
There have already been faulty/damaged transfer cases with the OEM fluid so...
It seems that a heavier weight oil will certainly improve reliability, but to suggest there is one particular magic fluid that will suddenly make your TC bulet proof seems highly unlikely.
#15
Originally posted by DocMortal
Running shockproof in the TC and 75-90 redline gear oil in the rear... BG syncroshift for the front...Road Race Engineering recommended !!
WORKS PERFECT !!
Running shockproof in the TC and 75-90 redline gear oil in the rear... BG syncroshift for the front...Road Race Engineering recommended !!
WORKS PERFECT !!