2012 Evo X: Can I get an alternator photo please
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2012 Evo X: Can I get an alternator photo please
Long story short. Could someone snap a photo of the rear of an Evo X alternator in-car that shows the the 12V terminal cover? Hopefully before and after it's unclipped to expose the terminal.
Had to move to Pa. from Florida because my dad passed on recently. Left the Evo in the garage when it started snowing and took his SUV back to grab my things. It was parked a little over 2 months before I came up (to frikkin' FREEZE). Came home and the battery was dead dead dead.
The key trik didn't work. Guess the battery was too dead. It just turned the door cylinder left and right without opening the door to pop the trunk to charge the battery.
Next best bet to trickle the battery is to clip a jumper to the alternator battery lead and charge it that way. It's tight under there with the under cover loosened and I don't want to butcher the plastic cover over the alternator stud.
Anyone??
Brrrrrrrr!!!!! (left Fl and it was 86 degrees....still -5 here living in a middle 19th century farm house with the wood stove blasting!)
Thx!
Had to move to Pa. from Florida because my dad passed on recently. Left the Evo in the garage when it started snowing and took his SUV back to grab my things. It was parked a little over 2 months before I came up (to frikkin' FREEZE). Came home and the battery was dead dead dead.
The key trik didn't work. Guess the battery was too dead. It just turned the door cylinder left and right without opening the door to pop the trunk to charge the battery.
Next best bet to trickle the battery is to clip a jumper to the alternator battery lead and charge it that way. It's tight under there with the under cover loosened and I don't want to butcher the plastic cover over the alternator stud.
Anyone??
Brrrrrrrr!!!!! (left Fl and it was 86 degrees....still -5 here living in a middle 19th century farm house with the wood stove blasting!)
Thx!
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Thank you. Did I plan on this? No. Did I know I was going to be gone 2 months? No. If I unhooked my battery and locked the car (if I were even able to...seeing as my key won't unlock the door) I'd still be in the same boat. Or snowmobile for that fact!
Last edited by supwiddiss; Jan 22, 2014 at 10:40 AM.
#5
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A car salesman told me that you can pull that tab that you see connected to one of the fuses that is under the hood. You will see it if you open the under hood fuse box. Supposedly it stops your battery from dying and you don't have to disconnect your battery.
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Why wont your key unlock your door?
That was my question to the local Mitsu dealer service maanger when I called wondering why the key didn't do anything but turn the lock cylinder left/right with no unlock.
Did I have the key reversed in the fob and was the battery in the fob good? Yes and Yes. Dealer response: "Hmmm". He spoke with a tech, Tech said you need a little bit of battery to operate the lock actuator. Total dead battery means the actuator won't work.
I cant get under the hood because the cars locked up and cant get to the release handle. And, once again (try it if you can) no battery, no door actuator.
I'm living way out in the sticks. There are no pro pop-a-lock companies out here and since the car is pristine I wouldnt trust Billy Bob with a slim jim.
I really need to get a charge on that battery not only to unlock the car but to keep from sulfating the plates and ruining it. I locked it tight, hood was latched and covered it up. Comfortable that I would be back in a week or 2. Well, that didn't happen.
Ok, do ya think you could please get a pic of the plastic alternator stud cover for me so I don't eff it all up working from underneath? I just need to get an alligator clip jumper to extend to a charger to get enough of a charge to open a door and get to the trunk.
Nice clear photos by the way. How good of a contortioninst are you? It sucks being from the south and having to work on a concrete floor in the cold.
Thanks beforehand. Appreciate it!
That was my question to the local Mitsu dealer service maanger when I called wondering why the key didn't do anything but turn the lock cylinder left/right with no unlock.
Did I have the key reversed in the fob and was the battery in the fob good? Yes and Yes. Dealer response: "Hmmm". He spoke with a tech, Tech said you need a little bit of battery to operate the lock actuator. Total dead battery means the actuator won't work.
I cant get under the hood because the cars locked up and cant get to the release handle. And, once again (try it if you can) no battery, no door actuator.
I'm living way out in the sticks. There are no pro pop-a-lock companies out here and since the car is pristine I wouldnt trust Billy Bob with a slim jim.
I really need to get a charge on that battery not only to unlock the car but to keep from sulfating the plates and ruining it. I locked it tight, hood was latched and covered it up. Comfortable that I would be back in a week or 2. Well, that didn't happen.
Ok, do ya think you could please get a pic of the plastic alternator stud cover for me so I don't eff it all up working from underneath? I just need to get an alligator clip jumper to extend to a charger to get enough of a charge to open a door and get to the trunk.
Nice clear photos by the way. How good of a contortioninst are you? It sucks being from the south and having to work on a concrete floor in the cold.
Thanks beforehand. Appreciate it!
Why wont your key unlock your door? Your door does not have a key hole?
A car salesman told me that you can pull that tab that you see connected to one of the fuses that is under the hood. You will see it if you open the under hood fuse box. Supposedly it stops your battery from dying and you don't have to disconnect your battery.
A car salesman told me that you can pull that tab that you see connected to one of the fuses that is under the hood. You will see it if you open the under hood fuse box. Supposedly it stops your battery from dying and you don't have to disconnect your battery.
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#8
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OP, it is super tight in there. Plus the serpentine belts and pulleys block the backside of it on the left, which would be the only accessible spot.
I would estimate that it is perfectly suspended half way between the plastic covers underneath and the hood / in other words very hard to get to from the bottom
I would estimate that it is perfectly suspended half way between the plastic covers underneath and the hood / in other words very hard to get to from the bottom
#9
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Why wont your key unlock your door?
That was my question to the local Mitsu dealer service maanger when I called wondering why the key didn't do anything but turn the lock cylinder left/right with no unlock.
Did I have the key reversed in the fob and was the battery in the fob good? Yes and Yes. Dealer response: "Hmmm". He spoke with a tech, Tech said you need a little bit of battery to operate the lock actuator. Total dead battery means the actuator won't work.
I cant get under the hood because the cars locked up and cant get to the release handle. And, once again (try it if you can) no battery, no door actuator.
I'm living way out in the sticks. There are no pro pop-a-lock companies out here and since the car is pristine I wouldnt trust Billy Bob with a slim jim.
I really need to get a charge on that battery not only to unlock the car but to keep from sulfating the plates and ruining it. I locked it tight, hood was latched and covered it up. Comfortable that I would be back in a week or 2. Well, that didn't happen.
Ok, do ya think you could please get a pic of the plastic alternator stud cover for me so I don't eff it all up working from underneath? I just need to get an alligator clip jumper to extend to a charger to get enough of a charge to open a door and get to the trunk.
Nice clear photos by the way. How good of a contortioninst are you? It sucks being from the south and having to work on a concrete floor in the cold.
Thanks beforehand. Appreciate it!
That was my question to the local Mitsu dealer service maanger when I called wondering why the key didn't do anything but turn the lock cylinder left/right with no unlock.
Did I have the key reversed in the fob and was the battery in the fob good? Yes and Yes. Dealer response: "Hmmm". He spoke with a tech, Tech said you need a little bit of battery to operate the lock actuator. Total dead battery means the actuator won't work.
I cant get under the hood because the cars locked up and cant get to the release handle. And, once again (try it if you can) no battery, no door actuator.
I'm living way out in the sticks. There are no pro pop-a-lock companies out here and since the car is pristine I wouldnt trust Billy Bob with a slim jim.
I really need to get a charge on that battery not only to unlock the car but to keep from sulfating the plates and ruining it. I locked it tight, hood was latched and covered it up. Comfortable that I would be back in a week or 2. Well, that didn't happen.
Ok, do ya think you could please get a pic of the plastic alternator stud cover for me so I don't eff it all up working from underneath? I just need to get an alligator clip jumper to extend to a charger to get enough of a charge to open a door and get to the trunk.
Nice clear photos by the way. How good of a contortioninst are you? It sucks being from the south and having to work on a concrete floor in the cold.
Thanks beforehand. Appreciate it!
Well I am not much of a contortionist. Honestly I don't know what you want me to take a picture of. The alternator? There is a stud on it?
#11
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OP, it is super tight in there. Plus the serpentine belts and pulleys block the backside of it on the left, which would be the only accessible spot.
I would estimate that it is perfectly suspended half way between the plastic covers underneath and the hood / in other words very hard to get to from the bottom
I would estimate that it is perfectly suspended half way between the plastic covers underneath and the hood / in other words very hard to get to from the bottom
#12
Evolved Member
I just don't understand why the door or trunk can't open? Thats why the fob's have a physical key. It shouldn't matter if the car has zero power because you are physically turning the key to release the door/trunk lock.
#13
So you tried the physical key that is inside the fob and the doors don’t open?
Even if you disconnect the battery, you can still open the door with the actual key, I have done this many times.
Just make sure that the key hole is clean/ not frozen inside…
Even if you disconnect the battery, you can still open the door with the actual key, I have done this many times.
Just make sure that the key hole is clean/ not frozen inside…
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Hey thanks everyone. Does anyone actually have a 2012 GSR here? I NEVER needed to use the key in the fob. I always depended on the keyless system. The car only has 2 (yes 2) lock cylinders on the entire thing. One under the ignition lock plug (no key needed with FAST) and the other on the drivers door handle.
Would you please take the time to look at what I see from the service manual (you all do have one, correct)? The only mechanical linkage from the door handle is to the latch assembly. No metal link arm to the latch assembly from the door handle lock exists (like on my IX MR).
The lock is electrical only. It's just a switch with a key cylinder in it to keep honest people out. Then you factor in the FAST system that is looking for a valid fob and your hand to be close to the door handle antenna...or whatever...I need to read the FAST section of the service manual a bit more. The passenger door, trunk and driver's door have little rubber covered buttons that you push when a valid fob is close to the car.
So from what I can tell, no way Jose' is the car going to open without battery power present.
Yes dude, the cylinder is not frozen. How would I have stated it only turns left and right with the key in it?
Cool thanks. I got a photo showing an actual alternator. I couldn't resist either and Googled for an hour to find a rear view of the alternator on the car. Every imaginable combination.
I got my hand barely up under the bottom of the car when I dropped the belly cover. I can see the 12 volt terminal covered with a plastic thing that I really dont want to screw up. I can touch the terminal.
If someone viable could please step up to the plate and, as they say, "Hook a brother up" with a close up pic with an indication of how to pop the wire cover off it would be very appreciated.
Would you please take the time to look at what I see from the service manual (you all do have one, correct)? The only mechanical linkage from the door handle is to the latch assembly. No metal link arm to the latch assembly from the door handle lock exists (like on my IX MR).
The lock is electrical only. It's just a switch with a key cylinder in it to keep honest people out. Then you factor in the FAST system that is looking for a valid fob and your hand to be close to the door handle antenna...or whatever...I need to read the FAST section of the service manual a bit more. The passenger door, trunk and driver's door have little rubber covered buttons that you push when a valid fob is close to the car.
So from what I can tell, no way Jose' is the car going to open without battery power present.
Yes dude, the cylinder is not frozen. How would I have stated it only turns left and right with the key in it?
Cool thanks. I got a photo showing an actual alternator. I couldn't resist either and Googled for an hour to find a rear view of the alternator on the car. Every imaginable combination.
I got my hand barely up under the bottom of the car when I dropped the belly cover. I can see the 12 volt terminal covered with a plastic thing that I really dont want to screw up. I can touch the terminal.
If someone viable could please step up to the plate and, as they say, "Hook a brother up" with a close up pic with an indication of how to pop the wire cover off it would be very appreciated.