How-To Automatic Transmission Flush
Oct 1, 2008, 02:22 PM
#1
How-To Automatic Transmission Flush
Auto Transmission flush how-to - 4G94 02-06 Lancer
Difficulty 3/5
Tools: Jack, Jack Stands, Socket set, Pliers, Oil Pan/Bucket, Spare Piece of Coolant/Fuel Hose (if you have it). 5 (or 7) quarts of Mitsubishi Transmission fluid, Funnel
1. Put in Park. Apply hand brake. Turn off engine. Jack up front end of car. Make sure both driver and passenger sides are jacked up and on stands
2. Get under the car towards the driver side, and take a look at the bottom of the radiator. Get your bearings, and compare to the attached diagram
3. Hose B is the line coming from the transmission, pumping fluid into the radiator for cooling. Hose A takes that coolant and sends it back to the transmission.
4. Take a bucket and lay it under the radiator, under the connection for hose A.
5. Take the pliers and pull hose A off the nipple/connector thingy on the radiator. Transmission fluid will begin to drain out into the bucket/pan. Let it sit there and drain.
6. When it stops, take a spare piece of hose, and attach it to the nipple/connector, then somehow secure the other end of the hose so it is pointing straight down into the bucket. When you begin to flush the transmission, the fluid is going to exit the radiator with some force, and if it isn’t re-directed into the bucket, it will spray all under the engine bay.
7. With the hose firmly secured and pointing down, get out from under the car, sit in the driver seat, and start the engine up. As soon as the engine starts and is running, get under the car and double check that transmission fluid is going into the bucket, and not everywhere else. It should be flowing out at a steady pace
8. Let the engine run for ONE MINUTE. After one minute, kill the ignition, whether the fluid has stopped draining or not.
9. With the engine stopped, get back under the car, and reconnect the original hose to the connector on the radiator.
10. Go under the car, next to the wheel, on the driver side. Look up, and you will see the transmission. There is a small polygon’ish drain plug on the side of it. Take your bucket or pan and place it roughly under the transmission. Don’t worry, the fluid will drain pretty slowly, so you can maneuver the pan once it starts draining
11. Take your socket, and unscrew the drain plug. NOTICE: There is a small metal gasket on the plug DO NOT lose it. Otherwise you will have to buy another one
12. Just like when you change your oil, the transmission fluid will begin to drain out. While that is happening, take the drain plug, and wipe the inside part of it with a rag. The drain plug is also a magnet (MAD JDM YO) and will have gunk around it.
13. Once the Fluid is done draining, screw the plug back in. Double check all the hoses are connected up again
14. Open up the hood, and take out the transmission fluid dipstick. This is where you are going to be pouring the new fluid
15. Take your funnel, and place it in the hole, and start pouring transmission fluid in there
.......15B. If you bought 7 quarts of fluid, at this point you will want to pour in 3 quarts. Then repeat the above steps and
....... re-flush the system. This will get ALL of the old and dirty transmission fluid out.
16. Once you have poured a full 5 quarts of transmission fluid in. Reinsert the dipstick and close the hood.
17. Lower the car back down off the jacks. Double check your hoses and connections
18. Start the car up, and let it sit in park for about 30 seconds.
19. After 30 seconds (with your foot on the brake) shift down into reverse. Hold for 10 seconds. Then shift down into neutral. Hold for 10 seconds. Continue this process of shifting and holding, all the way down through to 1st gear.
20. Repeat step 19 in the opposite direction. Shifting back up, and holding all the way through to Park.
21. Get under the car, and check that there is nothing leaking
22. Take the car out for a 5-minute test drive. Making sure to let the car go through as many gears as possible
23. Go back home and park the car. If the engine isn’t at normal operating temperature after your drive. Take it out a little more and get it there.
24. With the car in park, kill the engine. Lift up the hood, pull out the transmission fluid dipstick and check the level
25. If the level is sitting at “Hot” you are good to go. If it is to far under, then you need to add more fluid. If it is to far over, then you need to drain a little more. If it is sitting at cold, then somehow all your transmission fluid leaked out, and you need to check your hoses and repeat the entire process again.
26. Go buy some more mods for your car, and enjoy your transmission's new lease of life.
Difficulty 3/5
Tools: Jack, Jack Stands, Socket set, Pliers, Oil Pan/Bucket, Spare Piece of Coolant/Fuel Hose (if you have it). 5 (or 7) quarts of Mitsubishi Transmission fluid, Funnel
1. Put in Park. Apply hand brake. Turn off engine. Jack up front end of car. Make sure both driver and passenger sides are jacked up and on stands
2. Get under the car towards the driver side, and take a look at the bottom of the radiator. Get your bearings, and compare to the attached diagram
3. Hose B is the line coming from the transmission, pumping fluid into the radiator for cooling. Hose A takes that coolant and sends it back to the transmission.
4. Take a bucket and lay it under the radiator, under the connection for hose A.
5. Take the pliers and pull hose A off the nipple/connector thingy on the radiator. Transmission fluid will begin to drain out into the bucket/pan. Let it sit there and drain.
6. When it stops, take a spare piece of hose, and attach it to the nipple/connector, then somehow secure the other end of the hose so it is pointing straight down into the bucket. When you begin to flush the transmission, the fluid is going to exit the radiator with some force, and if it isn’t re-directed into the bucket, it will spray all under the engine bay.
7. With the hose firmly secured and pointing down, get out from under the car, sit in the driver seat, and start the engine up. As soon as the engine starts and is running, get under the car and double check that transmission fluid is going into the bucket, and not everywhere else. It should be flowing out at a steady pace
8. Let the engine run for ONE MINUTE. After one minute, kill the ignition, whether the fluid has stopped draining or not.
9. With the engine stopped, get back under the car, and reconnect the original hose to the connector on the radiator.
10. Go under the car, next to the wheel, on the driver side. Look up, and you will see the transmission. There is a small polygon’ish drain plug on the side of it. Take your bucket or pan and place it roughly under the transmission. Don’t worry, the fluid will drain pretty slowly, so you can maneuver the pan once it starts draining
11. Take your socket, and unscrew the drain plug. NOTICE: There is a small metal gasket on the plug DO NOT lose it. Otherwise you will have to buy another one
12. Just like when you change your oil, the transmission fluid will begin to drain out. While that is happening, take the drain plug, and wipe the inside part of it with a rag. The drain plug is also a magnet (MAD JDM YO) and will have gunk around it.
13. Once the Fluid is done draining, screw the plug back in. Double check all the hoses are connected up again
14. Open up the hood, and take out the transmission fluid dipstick. This is where you are going to be pouring the new fluid
15. Take your funnel, and place it in the hole, and start pouring transmission fluid in there
.......15B. If you bought 7 quarts of fluid, at this point you will want to pour in 3 quarts. Then repeat the above steps and
....... re-flush the system. This will get ALL of the old and dirty transmission fluid out.
16. Once you have poured a full 5 quarts of transmission fluid in. Reinsert the dipstick and close the hood.
17. Lower the car back down off the jacks. Double check your hoses and connections
18. Start the car up, and let it sit in park for about 30 seconds.
19. After 30 seconds (with your foot on the brake) shift down into reverse. Hold for 10 seconds. Then shift down into neutral. Hold for 10 seconds. Continue this process of shifting and holding, all the way down through to 1st gear.
20. Repeat step 19 in the opposite direction. Shifting back up, and holding all the way through to Park.
21. Get under the car, and check that there is nothing leaking
22. Take the car out for a 5-minute test drive. Making sure to let the car go through as many gears as possible
23. Go back home and park the car. If the engine isn’t at normal operating temperature after your drive. Take it out a little more and get it there.
24. With the car in park, kill the engine. Lift up the hood, pull out the transmission fluid dipstick and check the level
25. If the level is sitting at “Hot” you are good to go. If it is to far under, then you need to add more fluid. If it is to far over, then you need to drain a little more. If it is sitting at cold, then somehow all your transmission fluid leaked out, and you need to check your hoses and repeat the entire process again.
26. Go buy some more mods for your car, and enjoy your transmission's new lease of life.
Last edited by crypto; Oct 1, 2008 at 02:39 PM.
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crisper (Sep 1, 2016)
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Dec 31, 2010, 06:22 AM
#8
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Did the flush, but where the hell is the filter??--specifically on an 02--as I understand those are different from 03 on. I'm hearing that it's "in" the transmission. And why's the book telling me 8.1 quarts? It took not quite six and bottle of Lucas stop slip...
Oct 9, 2011, 08:45 AM
#11
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When checking the level in the end, should the engine be on or off? Your instructions in step 24 say to kill the engine, but most sites say that the engine should be running when checking the level. Is it different for a lancer?
Oct 9, 2011, 08:53 AM
#12
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The engine should be running when checking transmission fluid level...And you should use Mitsubishi ATF due to the fact that other ATF's have different compositions/friction modifiers depending on type
