DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

The front mount is easy. For this one you need a 17mm socket and a 14mm socket. Remove the bolt that attached the mount to the engine with the 14mm socket first. After that, remove the crossmember with the 17mm. There are two plastic trim clips that you need to remove from the crossmember, they are at the front attaching the splash guard to the crossmember.

The mount is attached to the crossmember by some 14mm bolts, have at it.

Install is the reverse, but don't reinstall if you are doing the rear, you want as much room as you can get back there.

The rear mount is not easy, you have to really take your time and explore all options to get at all the bolts.

Start by removing the tube from your intake between the manifold and you filter box. You need a screwdriver or a 10mm socket for this. This makes it so you can access half of the bolts you can't get at from underneath the car.

At this point it is a good idea to at least put a jack with a block of wood under the oil pan and get it touching, but not lifting, the oil pan. It will be best if the engine doesn't move at all, but if it does you can slide the bolt back in while someone controls the jack.

Remove all bolts holding the rear mount to the chassis. I used a very long extension and a u-joint or two at times to get one or two of the bolts, most are accessible from under the car with an open ended wrench.

There is a removable bracket attaching the mount to the engine, this will have to be removed to get the mount out. You must loosen the mount completely from the chassis in order to loosen the bottom bolt on this bracket. This bolt does not need to come out of the bracket at all and must be placed there before the mount is put into it, or it will not fit.

Once you have removed the bracket the mount should be able to be worked out the bottom of the engine bay. It takes some twisting to get it in and out of there.

Install:
Place the mount in it's position on the chassis and, with the bolt mentioned already in the hole, place the bracket over it. Tighten the bracket first, then put the bolts holding the mount on.

If you can't get the bolt attaching the engine to the mount in, reposition the engine either by pushing it with your hand or adjusting the jack until you can slide it through. With three mounts attached and the engine suspended by these mounts you should be able attach the crossmember and its mount easily. If not you can reposition the engine to slide this bolt through as well.

Here is a pic of the torque specs.

pabboost

iTrader: (3)

any difference with them? motor stiffness?? etc
im just thinking about buying them too.

kott_tot

yeah same question, what about harder idle and vibrations in the cabin?

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

It really doesn't vibrate too much. When you first start the car there is a big vibration and any time the car is bogging down there is strong vibration. For instance when you are climbing a very steep incline in first gear and just kind of letting the car do the work, of you get what I mean. After you increase from idle speed you don't notice much vibration.

As for performance, it makes a difference on how the car hooks up. shifting is smoother, acceleration is instantaneous. The car just kind of takes off when you hit the gas. The engine doesn't move at all, maybe 3 or 4mm at most, even when under heavy load.

Combining these with a suspension should eliminate wheel hop completely. these don't completely, but that may be my cheapy tires not holding the road too.

All this description is making me want to go drive my car

mitsutech005

good traction is one of my main limiting factors right now.

kott_tot

that sounds like a really good mod, but what about an engine dampner, doesnt that do the same thing?

pabboost

iTrader: (3)

thanx for letting me know dan
im buying some right now

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

yeah, the engine damnpner does the same thing, but these are less intrusive in your engine bay. I don't have the dampner, so I can't tell you anything about it really. It is supposed to accomplish the same thing without vibration but I can't see tying down just one side of the engine, no matter how it is set up mechanically. These motor mounts aren't even called mounts by the mitsu service manual, they are roll stoppers. It's been a week now since I put them in and I am still happy with my decision.

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

your welcome, good luck with the install, be patient and look at every angle. If you can't get at it with one type of wrench (the rear mount) try the other from another part of the car. I don't know if we needed to but at one point we came from the back left(belt) side of the engine with an extension to get at one bolt. I didn't do this to put it on but I am not sure if I could have loosened it by hand like I could tighten it back, if you know what I mean.

Cj98

iTrader: (18)

I know that this is pretty old but I was thinking about getting these.......and I was wondering if you put anything to support the engine while the mounts were out or did the other mounts keep it from moving?

Myszkewicz

iTrader: (2)

I haven't had the rear roll stopper out, but the front one is easy. The other mounts held the engine in place while it was out, no other support necessary.

If you're doing both, do the front one first, so there's less chance of the engine moving while you've got the rear mount out.

Cj98

iTrader: (18)

ok thanks and how much do they help? what do you think about them

Myszkewicz

iTrader: (2)

I love mine, I'd imagine RRM's are just as good.

otter

iTrader: (14)

The engine stays in fine with both out. You might have to lift the engine a hair with a jack/wood block to get the bolt holes to line up again, but nothing difficult. Also, as stated above, that rear mount is a ***** to get out. You have to get pretty creative with your wrench extensions, and ratcheting box wrenches definitely help a lot.

ROCK

iTrader: (67)

The first I see of this thread. Amazing how stuff gets revived.

ROAD/RACE