I need A CLUTCH INstall Guide
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix,Az
I need A CLUTCH INstall Guide
Hey guides, sorry no new posts, was out of the country, FEELS GOOD TO BE BACK TO MY ART lol
N e wayz, my clutch is now officially gone. You can bearly take off in first gear,
I know how to put a clutch in, did it many times, but for some reason i'm scared with my ralliart. If any one has a how to guide, especially separating the engine and the transmission PLEASE HELp. I heard it is tricky. If you also help by letting me know what to disconnect and stuff like that, It will really be much appreciated. I would take it in to a shop, but they want to charge $800 and thats the cheapest place,
If i was rich, i would do it in a heart beat, But unfortuantly, I"M NOT
SO any help will be wonderful,
I will also take pics and maybe once i get my computer hooked up probly, you can see it on cam....
One more thing, When replacing my clutch do i have to replace the flyweheel as well
Thanks guys
Cheers
Myron
i have a 04 ralliart 5 speed.(if that helps)
N e wayz, my clutch is now officially gone. You can bearly take off in first gear,
I know how to put a clutch in, did it many times, but for some reason i'm scared with my ralliart. If any one has a how to guide, especially separating the engine and the transmission PLEASE HELp. I heard it is tricky. If you also help by letting me know what to disconnect and stuff like that, It will really be much appreciated. I would take it in to a shop, but they want to charge $800 and thats the cheapest place,
If i was rich, i would do it in a heart beat, But unfortuantly, I"M NOT
SO any help will be wonderful,
I will also take pics and maybe once i get my computer hooked up probly, you can see it on cam....
One more thing, When replacing my clutch do i have to replace the flyweheel as well
Thanks guys
Cheers
Myron
i have a 04 ralliart 5 speed.(if that helps)
Last edited by MyRoN; Jun 30, 2006 at 11:54 PM. Reason: quick question
http://www.mievo.net/talk/showthread.php?t=497
It's for the Evo, but very well written, and is near the same for the Ralliart (fewer steps for us). You don't need to replace the flywheel, but you should have it resurfaced at a machine shop.
It's for the Evo, but very well written, and is near the same for the Ralliart (fewer steps for us). You don't need to replace the flywheel, but you should have it resurfaced at a machine shop.
Shouldn't be too tricky.
Remove battery.
Remove stick airbox, from the plastic tube by the radiator all the way up to the rubber elbow on the intake manifold.
Unbolt the bracket that holds the clutch fluid line on top of the tranny.
Disconnect shifter cables at the tranny.
Unbolt the clutch fluid restrictor from the tranny, but DON'T disconnect the fluid line.
Unbolt the slave cylinder from the tranny.You should be able to swing the whole hydraulic system up and out of the way. Compress the slave cylinder a bit, and tie a rag around it to keep the piston in it from popping out.
Unplug any wiring that plugs into the tranny. (Backup light switch, speed sensor)
Jack car up, support on jackstands.
Remove wheels.
DRAIN TRANNY FLUID. Otherwise, you're gonna need LOTS of Oil-Dri.
Remove plastic splash guards below and next to the tranny.
Unbolt the bracket on the back side of each strut that supports the brake line.
Remove the two bolts on each side that fasten the strut and the knuckle together.
Separate strut and knuckle.
If the passenger side driveshaft has a center support, unbolt it from the engine block.
Pop the driveshafts out of the tranny. A ball joint separator and a rubber mallet works great for this.
Flop the knuckles out so the driveshafts can pull out of the tranny. Try to get the driver's side shaft out by the wheel well, and secure it out of the way.
Unbolt clutch inspection cover from tranny.
Unbolt the tranny from the engine block.
Unbolt tranny mount from tranny. Then unbolt mount from car and remove it for clearance.
At this point, you have a few options for tranny removal. Engine hoist, chain hoist, tranny jack, or just a couple big dumb friends. Whichever way you go, the tranny needs to move to the left a couple inches, then drop down to the ground.
When removing the clutch pressure plate, prevent the engine from rotating backwards. Put one of the big tranny-to-engine bolts back in and jam a crowbar into the teeth of the flywheel, if you must.
Ideally, you should have the flywheel resurfaced when you change the clutch. It helps the new clutch break in properly. It's your call, though. I've done 'em without resurfacing and they were fine.
I'm looking for the specs for resurfacing, I'll post up again if I find it.
Remove battery.
Remove stick airbox, from the plastic tube by the radiator all the way up to the rubber elbow on the intake manifold.
Unbolt the bracket that holds the clutch fluid line on top of the tranny.
Disconnect shifter cables at the tranny.
Unbolt the clutch fluid restrictor from the tranny, but DON'T disconnect the fluid line.
Unbolt the slave cylinder from the tranny.You should be able to swing the whole hydraulic system up and out of the way. Compress the slave cylinder a bit, and tie a rag around it to keep the piston in it from popping out.
Unplug any wiring that plugs into the tranny. (Backup light switch, speed sensor)
Jack car up, support on jackstands.
Remove wheels.
DRAIN TRANNY FLUID. Otherwise, you're gonna need LOTS of Oil-Dri.
Remove plastic splash guards below and next to the tranny.
Unbolt the bracket on the back side of each strut that supports the brake line.
Remove the two bolts on each side that fasten the strut and the knuckle together.
Separate strut and knuckle.
If the passenger side driveshaft has a center support, unbolt it from the engine block.
Pop the driveshafts out of the tranny. A ball joint separator and a rubber mallet works great for this.
Flop the knuckles out so the driveshafts can pull out of the tranny. Try to get the driver's side shaft out by the wheel well, and secure it out of the way.
Unbolt clutch inspection cover from tranny.
Unbolt the tranny from the engine block.
Unbolt tranny mount from tranny. Then unbolt mount from car and remove it for clearance.
At this point, you have a few options for tranny removal. Engine hoist, chain hoist, tranny jack, or just a couple big dumb friends
. Whichever way you go, the tranny needs to move to the left a couple inches, then drop down to the ground. When removing the clutch pressure plate, prevent the engine from rotating backwards. Put one of the big tranny-to-engine bolts back in and jam a crowbar into the teeth of the flywheel, if you must.
Ideally, you should have the flywheel resurfaced when you change the clutch. It helps the new clutch break in properly. It's your call, though. I've done 'em without resurfacing and they were fine.
I'm looking for the specs for resurfacing, I'll post up again if I find it.
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: london, ontario
id like to know how you burt a clutch in 2 years thats got to be a record onless you are racing every day.If you have replaced a clutch before the above thread should get you started,good luck dude.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix,Az
I did haul my bike from az to texas and then from texas to california and back to az, also towed a full uhaul trailer up the mountains, from az to texas, texas to california, californica to az so yea alot of down shifting but i didnt think i would go out so soon on the clucth tho.
But thanks for all the help, I was thinking the rrm stage 4 clutch..or should i just do the oem replacement some one said a stage 2 for now and change motor mounts...let me know u guys ideas...
Cheers
But thanks for all the help, I was thinking the rrm stage 4 clutch..or should i just do the oem replacement some one said a stage 2 for now and change motor mounts...let me know u guys ideas...
Cheers
