This is a general "How To" on installing an A/F guage. -

Tools needed:

*18 Guage wire
*Wire Nuts/Electrical Tape
*Wire Stripper
*Drill
*X-ACTO Knife
*Patience

1. Start out by routing the RED wire from your A/F guage to a +12V ignigion supply
(a very easy tap would be to your ACC line on your car's CD head unit).

2. Route the black wire to a good ground connection and secure tightly.

3. The third wire will be the one we use to tap into the O2 sensor. You will need to drill a small hole in your firewall to route the wire down through your engine bay and back to the O2 sensor (I drilled mine right below the throttle cable). Be careful the wire does not get too close your your exhaust piping! For this step I did a "cheater" way if you are leary about actually splicing or cutting anything. You want to pull the sleve cover back and then shave the insulation off the BLUE wire of your O2 sensor. Once you have a good inch of wire exposed wrap the last wire (that you routed) from the A/F guage around this exposed portion and tape up tightly to prevent moisture. Slide black sleeve that cover O2 Sensor wires back over and your done.

-Matt

 

Couple notes on this. It's for a narrowband A/F meter, not wideband, and you dont' need to drill a hole in your firewall. There are already many holes there stock for us to use.

Discuss here.

 

X-ACTO Knife - is that like a stanley knife: razor blades on a retractable thing?

 

It's a hobby knife. More fine and sharp than the ones you mentioned.

 

that's what I was thinking. This is pretty cool if you want to have a gauge in your car, but it's not for tuning purposes. It's also not accurate, so it will be a display of innaccurate numbers under most circumstances.

If you need to tune, go the wideband route.

If you are going to replace your stock o2 sensor and have the wideband emulate a narrowband you have to wire into the correct wires on the ECU, not just random grounds/power supplies, and must ground the AFR gauge at the same point as the o2 sensor.

If you are adding a third sensor (for wideband readings) you have more leeway on the wiring but have to have some welding done instead, and the gauge still has to be wired to the same ground as the o2 sensor.

 

DangerousDan is back at it again. He's right and I prolly should have made that a side note. However, this is guage will work, but not 100% accurately

 

 

it's not worthless with out pictures, if it was the mods wouldn't have made it a sticky. just follow the directions. everything is explained and i even used a colored font for the "BLUE" wire.

 

yep, that color coding of the words actually helps! That way if you can't read english very well you still might be able to stumble through it. Of course if you can't read and are colorblind you are screwed totally.

It think it's a good writeup, it was just missing the disclaimer

 

If I have time tonight I will post a graph from some of my WOT readings I took with evoscan with the narrowband signal and wideband signal together. This should give everyone a visual example to understand the difference.

 

post it - i did you run the graph WOT in 3rd like a normal dyno?

 

Here are the images serve yourself!!!

[ATTACH]Narrowband[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]Wideband[/ATTACH]

OHh and BTW you can also eliminate the cat converter for more HP and eliminate completely the secondary O2 sensor you just need to buy the O2 simulator and you are good to go. Dan the thing about emulating the stock O2 with the wideband to only use the wodeband it's a PITA I did it in my car and works flawlesly but requires some time and patience so you don't trow CEL codes

 

cool man, thanks for the example. here is the realtime graph I promised, notice how both the sensor and the trim are constant during WOT. They provide no data to the ecu during this time, it operates off of the maps in the ECU.

 

Nice!!! we ralliart owners are becoming high tech people

 

trying to anyway. I wish I had gone to college for software