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04-06 Ralliart Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech (aftermarket turbo/supercharger related topics)

Racer Xs Turbo Build

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Old Feb 11, 2015, 08:52 AM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
make sure you use red loc-tite on the final drive bolts, also you best use the outer races that came with the respective diff bearings in the case...
To be honest I wasn't planning on it I know medave over at club 4g dropped his in and didn't have any problems I was hoping to do the same.. But I can't now that the race is moving around like that, I was planning on checking the backlash with the solder but the manual made it seem like you just take the race out very easily but if you have to press it out and in it seems like it would ruin the race from the constant removal/ installation. Well the engine came in and I have to say I was really disappointed in the condition it was in maybe I'm just spoiled and not used to the rust like you guys out in Canada. It was shipped laying on its side and the oil pan crushed also It looks like a freeze plug has to be replaced...
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Old Feb 11, 2015, 10:13 AM
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Still not as rusty as what Ive been working with. LOL

Everything with the internals ok on it?
Old Feb 11, 2015, 09:29 PM
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differential preload adjustment is of utmost importance...DO NOT skip this step...
Old Feb 12, 2015, 06:39 AM
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I'm actually not too far away right now, I really wish I could help you...had dinner in Santa Barbara yesterday....nice break from the snow...
Old Feb 12, 2015, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
I'm actually not too far away right now, I really wish I could help you...had dinner in Santa Barbara yesterday....nice break from the snow...
O nice! You're a long way from home haha.. That would be great! But even if you came to help I don't have the tools to move on I have to go find a puller to get that race out and a installation tool to put the new race back in... Still haven't found a exhaust shop that does custom work.... One thing after another haha I will try my hardest to keep moving foward
Old Feb 13, 2015, 01:06 AM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by RacerX-Ralliart
O nice! You're a long way from home haha.. That would be great! But even if you came to help I don't have the tools to move on I have to go find a puller to get that race out and a installation tool to put the new race back in... Still haven't found a exhaust shop that does custom work.... One thing after another haha I will try my hardest to keep moving foward


I'm back home now, lol...


anyway, I'm pretty sure I punched the races out from the outside once i remove the axle seals...like just tap it gently all around the race so it comes out evenly...

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Feb 13, 2015 at 01:20 AM.
Old Feb 17, 2015, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
I'm back home now, lol...


anyway, I'm pretty sure I punched the races out from the outside once i remove the axle seals...like just tap it gently all around the race so it comes out evenly...
I punched the races out last weekend, they came out really easy one light tap on one side and another on the opposite side and they came right out. Followed the process stated in the manual and measured .5mm of preload on the bearing manual says preloaded should be between .04-.11mm iirc.. There is a .86mm spacer already so someone correct me if I'm wrong but from my understanding I need a spacer that is .4mm to bring the preload down to the correct amount or get a 1.25mm spacer and a more accurate micrometer as I can only measure in .1mm minimum... But to me .04-.11 is so small I think the solder would disappear
Old Feb 17, 2015, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RacerX-Ralliart
I punched the races out last weekend, they came out really easy one light tap on one side and another on the opposite side and they came right out. Followed the process stated in the manual and measured .5mm of preload on the bearing manual says preloaded should be between .04-.11mm iirc.. There is a .86mm spacer already so someone correct me if I'm wrong but from my understanding I need a spacer that is .4mm to bring the preload down to the correct amount or get a 1.25mm spacer and a more accurate micrometer as I can only measure in .1mm minimum... But to me .04-.11 is so small I think the solder would disappear

the spacer is supposed to be removed for the measurement, measure again, and i'll bet you're within spec...
Old Feb 18, 2015, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
the spacer is supposed to be removed for the measurement, measure again, and i'll bet you're within spec...
Does it matter what side the spacer is on inside the trans? Also does it matter what side the solder goes on?
Old Feb 19, 2015, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by RacerX-Ralliart
Does it matter what side the spacer is on inside the trans? Also does it matter what side the solder goes on?
spacer and solder (not at the same time) should be on the transmission case side, not the bell housing side...
Old Mar 12, 2015, 08:44 AM
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Well I guess I just have bad luck, engine that I got from car-parts dot com has no compression in cylinder 3 called them up and they said it tested fine before they shipped it and I must have did something to it so now I have two engine that are no good.. Removed the shim and put the trans back together and the solder barely got crushed I'm pretty sure I need another shim to adjust the preload will try again this weekend..
Old Mar 12, 2015, 11:42 AM
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did you torque the case bolts?
Old Mar 13, 2015, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
did you torque the case bolts?
Yeah of course I did!
Old Mar 14, 2015, 07:42 AM
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and you did that with brand new diff bearings installed, and you need a bigger shim? hmm..the LSD must be a tad smaller...
Old Mar 14, 2015, 05:56 PM
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"Head gasket, valves, or timing" (THat came from a mechanic friend standing next to me). And he said, "why would they need to mess with the case bolt's if it's a crate engine?"

Last edited by truthdweller; Mar 14, 2015 at 06:18 PM.


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