toushay!

 

importmonkey, so you don't know what your oil temps are.. how can you say you didn't notice it when you are cruising at 80-85.. I think you are looking at your stock dummy temp gauge, which reads from the coolant temp sensor, the car don't come standard with a oil temp sensor

overall the pressure should stay about the same, but the temp will be signficately lower.. hence lower running temps

somebody buy my filter relocation kit!!

-joe

 

what i meant was...i couldn't see any tells from excessive high oil temperature. my oil stays in good shape for 5k+. don't notice any power loss or anything like that either.

 

i do

when im on my way to the track, if i get there early i race after driving for about an hour. and usually I keep the RPMs high most of the trip to burn as much fuel (weight) as I can. if I get a really fast checking and only let the car sit for less than 10 mins, my first run (sometimes first 2 runs) REALLY suck and I can feel the engine isnt quite what is usually is. The more I think of it, the more I am consider this along with a catch can for the sake of longevity. How will this effect engine warmup? I saw the greddy oil cooler comes /w a sensor valve. only cool if oil is over 180F. an extra $75 for that though =(

 

just two dumb questions...

1- what kind of oil are you using?
2- what "grade"? (as 5/30 10/30 ect....) <---- this one afects temp greatly if not correct is not 'always' the one that the manual says you must use, but the one you climate demands

 

im using 10w30 mobile1 synthetic /w mobile1 filter. south fl, so its mid 80's already, and its still winter =)

 

great majik

but the guy w/ the heating problem?



i use 20/50 valvoline "racing oil" (wow) year round


i have a chart somewhere in my computer with the oil grade by climate as soon as i find it ill post it.....

 

1. the sensor valve is called a thermostat.. it will redirect oil under 180f, only needed if you want to keep your normal warm up time.. otherwise you can do without one

2. the oil might look fine, it just means that it didn't pick up any crap in the engine.. but the addictives break down (look at my post above) at a certain temp and you dont' "see" that

3. i use castrol syntec and i changed mine every 4000km (2500 miles) and I use only the mitsubishi filter

4. using the oil filter relcation kit, i am running a filter that is 2x the size of the stock one.. should be a lot better in filtration.. also you can place it in a spot that's easy to do oil changes

-joe

 

all i know is i used castrol non synmtetic was gonna use it only for like 1000 KM to break in then swap out for some good oil. and it boiled and thinned out turned brown gay color and cost me like 500 bucks redoing my main bearings and i lost all oil pressure :S so fi u run turbo go synthetic


Tory

 

Joe,

That cooler will add capacity to the system, 1L/qrt, that should help in cooling too.

Where are you going to mount that relocator? Dam engine bay is tight - under the battery looks like the only place. Don't know if it will get in the way of a CIA, or any other mods.

I'm getting a trans dapt relocator, (two inlet and outlet ports so that I can mount the oil pressure/temp sensors on it). I've heard/read conflicting info about the best location for these sensors. But, at the filter seems like a good place in the stream.

What size hose are you using, I'm going for -10AN (about .5" ID), I think it will be least restrictive.

Any1,

I also wanted to check with you guys about the thread on the filter block, M20 x 1.5?

-Juan

 

its generic honda/mitsubithi one....

Tory

 

Thanks, pretty sure that's the 20 mm with the 1.5 pitch, pretty common on Honda/Mitsu/Subi.

 

Hotter oil has less viscocity and is therefore thinner. As such, I sincerely doubt oil has anything to do with your first couple of runs. The engine cooling off is probably minimizing the amount of heat soak on the intake. It could be a million things, but not the oil.

 

One last thing, oil gets thicker as it cools. If these kits make the oil too cool, then the oil may not do its job properly. Don't believe anything a manufacturer website says. Almost 99% of the time it's all bullsh!t. They have a product to sell, and they will say anything to do it. While I will not contest the fact that oil cooling is a good thing, I just think you all should consider every possible variable.

 

if it was nessary on a factory car they would do it before handing out 10 year warrenties...


the turboed non watercooled could use on tho for sure if u go on long trips woula saved me a lot of money

THanks
Tory