How much WHP would that give me ???
i got bout 12 mods, look at my registry, i dont have pictures yet, im working on that over this week.... the only thing i noticed is a loss in low end.. but the manifold, pulley, and piggyback will make up for that... HUGE gains at top end (thanks to my engine work...so much easier and faster to shift (thanks to tranny work)... engine dont bounce around anymore which makes driving actually easier, but theres some vibration all throughout the car when it idles (thanks to motor mounts)... but its tolerable
the piggyback will make your car drink gas, but with the air flow mods you get, it should get better... throttle response was up drastically, engine revs 10 times easier, and the clutch engages/disgages so much quicker... so when you are starting off at a red light when you first get these mods , it'll take a few times to learn everything w/out chirping your wheels a bit at regular take-offs...
you'll be very satisfied with your mods... i did everything one by one, so i noticed a small gain between each thing. if you put all of them on at the same time, your car is gonna feel like a totally different car with all that power added on at once...
dont know if you did this or not, but buy tires/rims ... the stocks have terrible grip.
the piggyback will make your car drink gas, but with the air flow mods you get, it should get better... throttle response was up drastically, engine revs 10 times easier, and the clutch engages/disgages so much quicker... so when you are starting off at a red light when you first get these mods , it'll take a few times to learn everything w/out chirping your wheels a bit at regular take-offs...
you'll be very satisfied with your mods... i did everything one by one, so i noticed a small gain between each thing. if you put all of them on at the same time, your car is gonna feel like a totally different car with all that power added on at once...
dont know if you did this or not, but buy tires/rims ... the stocks have terrible grip.
thanks for that I did look at the registry in regards to your car but the intake did not give too much away as to what is different with it and the type of design - like is the the intake pipes longer or shorter was the T/B modified or replaced with a cable type.... I did a search on T/B and came up with a company hat did a modified T/B on the stock unit but they only bored it out by 3 - 4mm which is not very much I am looking at a much larger T/B I am wanting about 65mm - here is the list of mods that I am hoping to do when I get the car and have the first service done
4-1 race design extractors(headers) big flow cat convertor and 21/2" exhaust
short CAI with K&N pod filter
and a GReddy E manage
second stage mods will be adjustable cam gear to advance timing
larger T/B port matched intake
upgrade front calipers and disc to 2 piston and EBC pads
other mods along the way will also be Rising fuel pressure regulator organic clutch some whiteline suspenssion anti lift kit rear sway and front tower new KYB shocks and springs (already have new P6000 tyres and rims will swap them from one car to the other)
I think that will just about do
4-1 race design extractors(headers) big flow cat convertor and 21/2" exhaust
short CAI with K&N pod filter
and a GReddy E manage
second stage mods will be adjustable cam gear to advance timing
larger T/B port matched intake
upgrade front calipers and disc to 2 piston and EBC pads
other mods along the way will also be Rising fuel pressure regulator organic clutch some whiteline suspenssion anti lift kit rear sway and front tower new KYB shocks and springs (already have new P6000 tyres and rims will swap them from one car to the other)
I think that will just about do
do a before and after dyno....thats the only way to tell the gains....Dynos arnt really telling an accurate power rating cause we all know dynos give differnt readings....so the best u can do is a before and after and see how much it gives you....
dont get me wrong though...dynos do give you a good estimate of whp and tq....but i dont belive them too much.....casue i did a dyno on my lancer w/ RRM stage1 I/C at 5.8psi with stock header(has a cat in it) and stock 2nd cat....it said 185whp and 210wtq....then later i put on RRM header and cat delete and put it @ 7psi....it dynoed less whp and wtq....although the temp probly had an effect but (1st dyno was at 72deg. 2nd dyno was at 100) but not to make me have less power.....and this was done all on the same dyno at the same shop....all in all i would do a before and after dyno to see what power u accully gained and go from ther....just my 2cents.
dont get me wrong though...dynos do give you a good estimate of whp and tq....but i dont belive them too much.....casue i did a dyno on my lancer w/ RRM stage1 I/C at 5.8psi with stock header(has a cat in it) and stock 2nd cat....it said 185whp and 210wtq....then later i put on RRM header and cat delete and put it @ 7psi....it dynoed less whp and wtq....although the temp probly had an effect but (1st dyno was at 72deg. 2nd dyno was at 100) but not to make me have less power.....and this was done all on the same dyno at the same shop....all in all i would do a before and after dyno to see what power u accully gained and go from ther....just my 2cents.
Do you guys have over there a hub dyno were the dyno is bolted onto the hubs of the car... we have one here and the results are very accurate mainly because you don't have to worry about wheel slip or any of those other nasties that effect a cars performance.. but I hear what you are syaing about different dynos and even the same dynos giving different results I suppose you have to look at dynos as a tuning tool and show you what sort of fuel air ratios are like and if there are any areas that need to be cleaned up on the power curve... I have seen too many people get caught up in the huge H.P wars after spending mega dollars and having a car that has no torque and drives terrible, give me a car that has nice power curves and torque and you can drive the car in any situation like a pro
Originally Posted by chowetime
Do you guys have over there a hub dyno were the dyno is bolted onto the hubs of the car... we have one here and the results are very accurate mainly because you don't have to worry about wheel slip or any of those other nasties that effect a cars performance.. but I hear what you are syaing about different dynos and even the same dynos giving different results I suppose you have to look at dynos as a tuning tool and show you what sort of fuel air ratios are like and if there are any areas that need to be cleaned up on the power curve... I have seen too many people get caught up in the huge H.P wars after spending mega dollars and having a car that has no torque and drives terrible, give me a car that has nice power curves and torque and you can drive the car in any situation like a pro
yeah the DynaPack.....those cost like $150,000 so not a lot of shops have then here.....i went to a shop in Washington that hadone....it was giving low numbers but it was a constant low...like 20hp....so i would say that is the most accurate dyno out ther.
Originally Posted by CrazyCal
Ralliart on LSD, did you install all your mods yourself?
Last edited by Ralliart_on_LSD; Oct 2, 2005 at 05:38 PM. Reason: spelling
Ralliart on LSD, one question for you. I don't doubt for a second that your car kicks ***, but why didn't you opt for the RRM turbo kit when you just spent 6k? I realize that you did clutch and flywheel and all those mods are valid regardless but at $4,300, you'd still would have had extra cash for a few extra mods.
i did all the N/A mods first, then im going turbo a little later... the only parts i cant reuse in the turbo kit is the piggyback and coldair intake, which i can easily sell on this website, but theres a kid at my brothers school with a RA im gonna sell the stuff to him...
the only thing i dont have is the downpipe, but im gettin that in 2 weeks.... i realize once i go turbo i'll be selling that pipe to, but im not goin turbo for at least 6 months, if im lucky, so im just going all 100% NA power until then for 2 reasons... 1) i need the speed now lol
2) so i can compare a fully tuned NA ralliart to a turbo ralliart and post the details
and yes thanks for saying my car kicks ***, it sure does lol
the only thing i dont have is the downpipe, but im gettin that in 2 weeks.... i realize once i go turbo i'll be selling that pipe to, but im not goin turbo for at least 6 months, if im lucky, so im just going all 100% NA power until then for 2 reasons... 1) i need the speed now lol
2) so i can compare a fully tuned NA ralliart to a turbo ralliart and post the details
and yes thanks for saying my car kicks ***, it sure does lol
^^ just to be clear.. i do not "hate" rrm... the fact that i wasnt 100% satisfied with a product does not make me a hater...
everytime i meet someone that has a ra i point them to them (rrm) just because the vast mayority of the aftermarket is their brainchild... if i "hate them" the first thing i would do is to take their sticker of my car
everytime i meet someone that has a ra i point them to them (rrm) just because the vast mayority of the aftermarket is their brainchild... if i "hate them" the first thing i would do is to take their sticker of my car


