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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

cleaning the air filter

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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 09:40 AM
  #16  
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Unless the temperature is cold enough to freeze your spit before it hits the ground, you only need 30 seconds to get the oil moving around the engine. You then need to drive conservatively until the engine reaches operating temperature. That wastes no more fuel than necessary and is actually good for your engine. Sitting around idling is terrible for your engine.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 07:31 PM
  #17  
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^^^ when was idling a bad thing??? I'm new to this but i have never heard of that
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 06:57 AM
  #18  
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Idling has always been a bad thing. First off, when you let your car sit and idle to warm up, you're warming it up unevenly. It doesn't warm up your transmission, either. Also, your engine endures more wear at idle than it does by being used and varying RPMs.
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 07:02 AM
  #19  
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Plus your engine is running the least efficiently at idle, so it quickly begins to build up carbon deposits inside the engine. The other big point which ties into this thread is that at idle you are getting 0mpg.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 09:24 PM
  #20  
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^^ i understand but what about cold winter starts?? How long should u wait to idle??
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 10:25 PM
  #21  
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From: Seat 8A
30 seconds is enough time, then just drive it easy until it's up to temp.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 05:28 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by EvoJutsu
^^ i understand but what about cold winter starts?? How long should u wait to idle??
I go with the 30 seconds no matter the temperature, the colder it is out, the easier I drive to warm it up like Otter just said. The only exception to this rule, such as this morning for me, is I start it and however long it takes to scrape the flippin' ice off the windows is how long the car gets to warm up.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 09:53 PM
  #23  
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How about for us AEM and INJEN CAI guys who live where it snows and salt is a factor, how long do u guys wait to change ur filter. I know that the Injen CAI brings the filter right inside the wheel well and there isnt much openings except for the one u cut to fit the pipe in and a few holes in the bottom but thats about it so all alot of debris doesnt really make it inside. so how dirty does the filter actually get in the winter before its time for a change.

One more question(i just got the car so bare with me), does it matter which filter u use? I have the Injen CAI and its using the stock oil one which was installed in the end of summer (july or august). Can i just go buy a random non oil cone filter and through it in instead of ordering a new Injen filter or K&N? Is there any performance issues? Does the injen and K&N let in more air then just a non oiled cone filter?

Thx.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 10:51 PM
  #24  
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From: Seat 8A
No need to replace the filter, just clean it and re-oil it. I clean and re-oil mine every fall and spring, and that's been adequate for me, even with road salt and everything.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 04:23 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by otter
No need to replace the filter, just clean it and re-oil it. I clean and re-oil mine every fall and spring, and that's been adequate for me, even with road salt and everything.
oh okay, i checked it today and took it off to have a look and it looks pretty cleans still, and its not wet which is a good thing.

The wierdest thing happened today though. i took the car to get a car wash (the touchless one) and i pulled out of the bay and and when i shifted into second i punched it a bit and the car kinda bogged.. so i quickly put it out of gear, put it third and it drove fine after that. any suggestions? the filter wasnt wet when i checked it today... so i dunno wat that was.

Last edited by rallitracc; Dec 9, 2006 at 04:26 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 08:22 PM
  #26  
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I was surprised at the amount of crud in my paper filter when it was swapped out for a K&N... was like bees and stuff wedged in it... it shouldn't surprise me too much, bugs seem to really dig a bright yellow car, just the quantity of things bigger than dust I guess surprised me
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 11:05 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by EvoJutsu
^^ i understand but what about cold winter starts?? How long should u wait to idle??
Like the others said, 30 seconds should be plenty most of the time. I give it 2 or 3 minutes, just to make shifting easier. The only time I don't do this is when it's colder than -30 degrees outside and I couldn't plug in. I give it at least 5 minutes. If it's colder than -40, I give it 10-15 minutes since frankly, driving when the car is that cold is almost impossible. Impossible to shift, difficult to use the clutch, very hard to steer etc.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 01:17 PM
  #28  
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that's cold, I am glad I live in NC.

I also have a problem shifting into 2nd when the car is still cold. I usually have to double clutch to get it there. I would start out in second but my apartments have parallel parking on a hill Once the car is warm I have no issues.

BTW, I have no clutch slave modulator, brass bushings underhood, aluminum bushings under shifter, a clutch block, solid motor mounts, and I have been using Mobil1 synthetic tranny fluid for 10,000 miles. I am going with a higher quality transmissoin fluid this spring, sooner if the problem gets worse. The Mobil1 has dissappointed me since Day1
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 07:15 PM
  #29  
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ya it sucks alot having to get into a cold car when its 6 am and -30, so i jsut fire it up a solid 10 mins before i have to go(Y)
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 11:51 AM
  #30  
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guys what are some easy cleaning kits out there in the market?

i have the red looking filter on my aem..
i havent cleaned it once since summer time..

are these cleaning kits available at a canadian tire???
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