So i go to the dyno today to get a baseline before i put on the camshaft. my last dyno i did 160.since then ive added a RPW adj. cam gear and RRM manifold with phelonic spacer.

today i dyno a 153. both were dyno jets. but last place i went used a giant fan with the hood up this place put the hood up and i was just right in front of the open garage door. also found my AFR was a little over 14, last time in the 11.8-12.1 range. also think im taking RPW's cam gear out when i put in the cam shaft b/c it looks like all they did is take a stock gear and mount a metal plate onto it that can be turned to adjust which is heavier then stock, which i guess killed some HP on me...?

also i drive an auto, so this guy had me put in drive get to steady at 35mph then pedal to floor, the last time the guys had it in 3 not drive, dont know if that makes a difference??

need to buy a wideband or find a shop willing to tune this thing, guy i went to first did tuning but he's "closed for renovations"


Thoughts? suggestions? thanks.

 

You shuould always measure in the same dyno. All dynos have different calibration

 

I wouldn't stress over 7 whp... it could be a number of diff things.... now if it was 20 less then maybe a problem.

 

Yeah, if you went to two different variable factors such as surroundings, temps etc, doesn't matter, every dyno reading will be different.

So long its within a decent range.

 

thing is i added an intake manifold from RRM and still lost 7... i wanted to go back to the same guys but they're closed down now.

 

tune yourself, and then dyno for your results. Then you don't have to worry about whose tuning is better, and you can take your time. Wideband man

 

i have a brand new computer, but i dont know how to use it at all.

You ever see zoolander, when they are staring at the computer like a bunch of monkeys. "The files are in the computer" and they start slaping the computer to break it open cuz they dont know how to use the computer...

yea thats me. RETARDED with technology and computer crap.

Do you think if i buy the wideband thing i would be able to use it easy and tune myself? or do you have to be a computer wiz???

and do you need a laptop???

 

The PC doesnt scare me, i give PC lessons to ppl and fix them at work. its my knowledge of cars and the just dumping money into preordering the camshaft thats stopping me from the wideband right now. it would def. be fun to do though.
maybe after i get this cam in it can be my next adventure.

 

get a autotap tool i use that and it tells me everything about my afr

 

^^price? where?

 

You aren't comparing apples to apples. Different dynos, different days, different parts with the same tune.

I'm sure the added weight of the cam gears isn't robbing you of much power. The fact that your AFR's are so much leaner tells me your car needs to be tuned for those parts and should make more power than before.

 

^^yeah. dangerousdan on the forums has offered to help me out a little bit with a richer tune for the ride. so after that i wont be going right to the dyno again but i'm really thinking about putting up the $$ for a wideband of some type so i can take what he gives me and use his changes to help me learn how to keep going and do my own tuning

 

The wideband is absolutely necessary to tune the piggyback. The post cat o2 sensor used by most dyno tuners will be able to get you a basic tune, but to be an accurate tune you have to have a pre-cat o2 sensor. The catalytic converters job is to change the chemical makeup of your exhaust gases, which is what an o2 sensor measures.

Unless that autotap thingy is using a wideband o2 sensor it's not telling you what you need to know to tune the car. Even if it's using your stock o2 sensor it's not accurate.

Speaking just on terms about the computer the wideband is super easy to use. The instructions are so simple (at least with the innovate motorsports lc-1) a monkey really could get it to work. As far as using the software and your knowledge of cars to be able to accomplish the tune, now thats entirely up to you.

The biggest problem I have with the software is nothing communicates together. The piggyback and LC-1 don't talk, and the R4 and logworks software don't either. The LC-1 logs AFR only, the only other axis to plot with is time, and the piggy can't read the AFR(and doesn't log in minutes or seconds) so I am stuck comparing one curve to another with no reference but the curves themselves. I am going to buy the obdii cable (tatrix, openecu) so I can log all the information into one program (evoscan), which will make tuning much simpler.

All in all you have to have some intelligence to figure this all out. If you change your own oil but won't wire the piggyback because it's part of the ECU I would say let someone else do it. If the wiring for the piggyback excited you then go for it!

Check out the piggyback maps sticky in the RA NA forums for more detail on tuning. Post there for any questions and I will try and help who I can. I'm no guru though, you'll have to see Boe if you want a guru

 

DOnt know your mods when you dynoed 160 but if that is stock, then that dyno needed to be recalibrated. From a 165 bhp car bone stock with an auto tranny, if you are getting 160 whp, something is on crack.

 

not stock