Well, I was tooling around the engine bay earlier today (chick - doing Preventative maintenance go figure... lol) and noticed 2 tumors on our stock airboxes... well, My DSM fiance said they were "resonating chambers" to make the car quieter, and not to mess with the car since it's still under warantee. I took the Air filter out and saw a third chamber behind the filter element itself.
After doing some research I took a (if you wanna try this - this may aswell be a how to)
- Aluminum Ducting tape (very smooth stuff)
- Calibrated Eyeball
- Object to prod with
- Paper towel
- some form of making tape or a ziptie.
OK... now for some fun.
- wrap your prodding object with a tightly balled papertowel
it should look like a drumstick or close enough
- take the aluminum tape and cut a circle about 2.5" in diameter out of it.
- cut out a square 1" X 1.5"
- cut out another circle about 2"
put those aside for now.
-take the screws off the Air inlet (2 plastic ones)
look into the tube and you will see where the 1st resonating chamber is.
take your the 2.5" circle you made and block off that resonator.
use the drumstick to smooth it all out and make sure the block off has completely seated (no wrinkles)
now, for the second resonator - it is literally in front of the air filter element.
take your 2" peice and block that off as best as you can and once again strive for as little wrinkleage as you can. (smoother air is faster air = TQ)
for the third chamber- it is behind the filter element. it rectangular in shape and just needs to be plugged.
put it all back together and test drive.
-you may notice a slight increase in induction noise
-and for A/T R/A's you will notice a faster jump in rpm than it used to.
faster moving air =TQ
Higher volume of air=HP
Basically you are eliminating the few restrictions that the factory induction system has.
and as a general rule of thumb - Air (like electricty) takes the path of least resistance
The stock Intake tried to suck air in through those chambers but there was no way for air to get in there until it created enough (scientific term I can't describe) to where air then takes the other path through the inlet snorkel only to get disrupted again.
Now that you eliminated those chambers air will literally have a more direct path into the TB.
After doing some research I took a (if you wanna try this - this may aswell be a how to)
- Aluminum Ducting tape (very smooth stuff)
- Calibrated Eyeball
- Object to prod with
- Paper towel
- some form of making tape or a ziptie.
OK... now for some fun.
- wrap your prodding object with a tightly balled papertowel
it should look like a drumstick or close enough
- take the aluminum tape and cut a circle about 2.5" in diameter out of it.
- cut out a square 1" X 1.5"
- cut out another circle about 2"
put those aside for now.
-take the screws off the Air inlet (2 plastic ones)
look into the tube and you will see where the 1st resonating chamber is.
take your the 2.5" circle you made and block off that resonator.
use the drumstick to smooth it all out and make sure the block off has completely seated (no wrinkles)
now, for the second resonator - it is literally in front of the air filter element.
take your 2" peice and block that off as best as you can and once again strive for as little wrinkleage as you can. (smoother air is faster air = TQ)
for the third chamber- it is behind the filter element. it rectangular in shape and just needs to be plugged.
put it all back together and test drive.
-you may notice a slight increase in induction noise
-and for A/T R/A's you will notice a faster jump in rpm than it used to.
faster moving air =TQ
Higher volume of air=HP
Basically you are eliminating the few restrictions that the factory induction system has.
and as a general rule of thumb - Air (like electricty) takes the path of least resistance
The stock Intake tried to suck air in through those chambers but there was no way for air to get in there until it created enough (scientific term I can't describe) to where air then takes the other path through the inlet snorkel only to get disrupted again.
Now that you eliminated those chambers air will literally have a more direct path into the TB.
Evolved Member
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=120526
good job though, I think this was a chick too!!
good job though, I think this was a chick too!!
Evolved Member
This has the same affect of removing and patching those resonator boxes except it keeps the "stock" look which is good for some of us under warrranty. Good job on the write up too, i wish i knew girls who worked on their cars... about how long did you say this job took?
Evolved Member
yeah, my gf thinks I am a retard for as much time I put into my car.
either method shouldn't take more than an hour or two. This part of the car is put together with only a few bolts and plastic trim plugs(or whatever those cheap *** things are)
either method shouldn't take more than an hour or two. This part of the car is put together with only a few bolts and plastic trim plugs(or whatever those cheap *** things are)
Well, besides the many breaks i took and scrounging around in my fiance's
STASH-O-DSM-JUNK, it took me the better part of a 1/2 hour to an hour to carefully remove the parts so incase the car ever had to go back to satan they would never notice i tooled around in the (voo doo - it's a man's world) engine bay
As stated above also, It looks like nothing ever happened inside the engine bay
.
- IT all got started after taking a ride in my fiance's stupid Talon....
all stupid 480 HP of it.... i guess i learned something
STASH-O-DSM-JUNK, it took me the better part of a 1/2 hour to an hour to carefully remove the parts so incase the car ever had to go back to satan they would never notice i tooled around in the (voo doo - it's a man's world) engine bay
As stated above also, It looks like nothing ever happened inside the engine bay.- IT all got started after taking a ride in my fiance's stupid Talon....
all stupid 480 HP of it....
i guess i learned something
Evolved Member
Quote:
She wants to keep it as stock looking as possible. I would have done the same, cept i went the route of getting an SRI. And to this day (well no anymore since i'm not under warranty) i took me SRI out and installed my stock box EVERYTIME i went to the dealer...Originally Posted by fkdrcrs
if your gonna go through all that trouble just get an sri or cai.
I can legit do the swap in under 15 minutes now.. i move fast!
Evolved Member
Quote:
Ouch! Let's be nice, I didn't even remember this one... of course I had my stock intake on for all of about 1 week!Originally Posted by PR_Mivec
welcome to 2 years ago!
Thanks bruce,....
At least someone understood my method of thinking. Who says my RA isn't gonna be turbo'd as soon as the warantee is over... My fiance fabbed up the manifold, milled a new 1/2" diameter fuel rail, IC pipes are done, Intercooler measures out to be 28"X 7" X 3", and a (i think he said SC5031) or some turbo like that will be under the hood. I still don't understand most of his jargon
. but any how, RRM's forged pistons are still to be ordered aswell as AEM EMS I think thats what it's called....
-Esther
At least someone understood my method of thinking. Who says my RA isn't gonna be turbo'd as soon as the warantee is over...
My fiance fabbed up the manifold, milled a new 1/2" diameter fuel rail, IC pipes are done, Intercooler measures out to be 28"X 7" X 3", and a (i think he said SC5031) or some turbo like that will be under the hood. I still don't understand most of his jargon. but any how, RRM's forged pistons are still to be ordered aswell as AEM EMS I think thats what it's called....-Esther
Evolving Member
i would just get a CAI or SRI and if something ****s up, slap the stock airbox back on
Evolved Member
Quote:
+ 1 Originally Posted by PR_Mivec
welcome to 2 years ago!