Ralliart Flywheel and LSD!!!!!!!
and before I have to respond to a comment I chose high HP vehicles because the net gains should be greater, and therefore easier to point out, on those engines. the 12hp increase might translate to a 3 or 4hp increase in a 4 cyl engine.
also, the tests mentioned in the quote included lightweight components of the clutch and flywheel, not just flywheel, so the weight difference was even greater.
also, the tests mentioned in the quote included lightweight components of the clutch and flywheel, not just flywheel, so the weight difference was even greater.
once again it appears you are right, how much did you say it cost to have the stock flywheel machined? Not really something that is beneficial unless you have time to leave the drive train apart, otherwise you would be better off having a new replacement to drop in so you can drive your car(either buy an aftermarket flywheel or a replacement stock and have it machined beforehand.)
The stock flywheel costed like 45 shipped used , I sent it to this shop RACETEP They are gonna do the lightenning and the balancing .
I measured the stock weight and wrote that and I am waiting on the flywheel to arrive and will start a thread about the performance gains from the following mods:MY PORTED CYL HEAD WITH CERAMIC COATINGS, CAMSHAFT(still deciding on RPW), PORTED INTAKE MANIFOLD WITH CERAMIC COATING, INJEN CAI, PORTED THROTTLE BODY WITH COOLANT ELIMINATION, EGR ELIMINATION, RRM UNDERDRIVE PULLEY, CCUSTOM LIGHTENNED FLYWHEEL, CUSTOM HEADER AND EXHAUST 2.5", SMT-6 PIGGYBACK
I measured the stock weight and wrote that and I am waiting on the flywheel to arrive and will start a thread about the performance gains from the following mods:MY PORTED CYL HEAD WITH CERAMIC COATINGS, CAMSHAFT(still deciding on RPW), PORTED INTAKE MANIFOLD WITH CERAMIC COATING, INJEN CAI, PORTED THROTTLE BODY WITH COOLANT ELIMINATION, EGR ELIMINATION, RRM UNDERDRIVE PULLEY, CCUSTOM LIGHTENNED FLYWHEEL, CUSTOM HEADER AND EXHAUST 2.5", SMT-6 PIGGYBACK
Ok if you look in the manual ? (cd repair whatever) you can find a whole section on emmisions . At the end thespecs of our emmisions system. As my goal is 250 N/A raw power I will need some help. My exhaust is a 2.5 cat back with a HF cat 2.5 inch and a resonator and a 3 chamber muffler so I am pretty much running a higher diameter but keeping emmisions in its place. There has been a debate on lots of threads about the EGR elimination and stuff. People claim is good for the engine( i honestly don't know how a bunch of carbon deposits in the intake manifold and extra heat oon it will help) but whatever I will delete it. It is supposed to recirculate Exhaust gases from the last cylinder into the intake to eliminate Nox particles and stuff that the stock cat is supposed to do. By eliminating it you will gain LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD TEMPERATURES (+HP) and less CARBON BUILD UP ON THE VALVES AND INTAKE MANIFOLD (again + HP). You all guys know where the EGR is in our cars (located on the 4th cylinder intake runner on the intake manifold).
Things you will need :
1- EGR-block off plate (evo block off fits)
2- EGR gasket (OEM)
now there are some drawbacks as always
by removing the actuator you will throw a CEL. Lucky for you I might have a solution for it.
When you are at WOT the valve does not works and either on idle it actuates then cruising and mostly when you are on CLOSED LOOP. You can remove the actuator completely and place a 5 watt resistor in place of it. ( I am researching this and might need some help here) the stock resistance of the valve actuator is 20-24 omhs @ 68 Farenheit we can make a special connector that will connect to the OEM plug and cheat the stock ECU and therefore EGR eliminated I am still not sure about this I already tried it on a EVO but need some tips from you guys about the size of the resistor (in whatever measure it is).
Remember by removing the EGR lower intake temperatures will reduce a LOT and also this leads to less detonation and stuff..
Things you will need :
1- EGR-block off plate (evo block off fits)
2- EGR gasket (OEM)
now there are some drawbacks as always
by removing the actuator you will throw a CEL. Lucky for you I might have a solution for it.
When you are at WOT the valve does not works and either on idle it actuates then cruising and mostly when you are on CLOSED LOOP. You can remove the actuator completely and place a 5 watt resistor in place of it. ( I am researching this and might need some help here) the stock resistance of the valve actuator is 20-24 omhs @ 68 Farenheit we can make a special connector that will connect to the OEM plug and cheat the stock ECU and therefore EGR eliminated I am still not sure about this I already tried it on a EVO but need some tips from you guys about the size of the resistor (in whatever measure it is).
Remember by removing the EGR lower intake temperatures will reduce a LOT and also this leads to less detonation and stuff..
Last edited by migueralliart; Jun 6, 2007 at 11:26 AM.
cool man, thanks for the info.
I was aware of how the EGR system operates, but not of the fact it can be defeated.
Two questions:
I thought resistors where rated on resistance and heat, they have a wattage rating also?
What you are saying is you need a resistor that will trick the ECU into thinking the current it is sending to the "actuator" is actually acting on something, the current going back to the ECU is stepped down with the resistor?
I was aware of how the EGR system operates, but not of the fact it can be defeated.
Two questions:
I thought resistors where rated on resistance and heat, they have a wattage rating also?
What you are saying is you need a resistor that will trick the ECU into thinking the current it is sending to the "actuator" is actually acting on something, the current going back to the ECU is stepped down with the resistor?
Yes that's exactly what I meant . Well I am gonna need some help from you .
The motor actuates in Closed Loop with those values of resistence. The resistance is to cheat the ECU into thinking something is working, well I think the EGR is also know as stepper
The motor actuates in Closed Loop with those values of resistence. The resistance is to cheat the ECU into thinking something is working, well I think the EGR is also know as stepper
Last edited by migueralliart; Jun 6, 2007 at 11:28 AM.
We might need a new thread for this! lol.
If it's a "stepper" egr valve, I'm assuming it has a stepper motor in it to turn screwdrive pintle . If this is the case, there could be an egrvalve position sensor, but I'm doubting it.
As for wattage--the electronics standard is find the desired wattage and double it for safety. You'll probably want a ceramic resistor for heat's sake. They are usually rectangular. more to come..
If it's a "stepper" egr valve, I'm assuming it has a stepper motor in it to turn screwdrive pintle . If this is the case, there could be an egrvalve position sensor, but I'm doubting it.
As for wattage--the electronics standard is find the desired wattage and double it for safety. You'll probably want a ceramic resistor for heat's sake. They are usually rectangular. more to come..
I just checked the manual and it says Stepper Motor and
BTW I started a new thread on this everybody that can help me GO THERE
BTW I started a new thread on this everybody that can help me GO THERE
Last edited by migueralliart; Jun 6, 2007 at 12:54 PM.
I dont really know if the whole explanation goes to me...whatever
I will put it to you as simple as I can. I replaced the stock flywheel with a lighter one. I dont know if it really gives hp or if I just think it does... I dont really care, BUT I can safely say that THE CAR improved NOTABLY, just like it did when I installed the UDP.
Stop looking at the people that buy or ACTUALLY DO upgrades, like if they are doing the wrong thing. It's always like that. We share the info on the parts or mods we do, and theres somebody like " If I would've done it, I would do it this way".... DO IT! and then you have the necessary EXPERIENCE to actually steer ppl in the right direction
I will put it to you as simple as I can. I replaced the stock flywheel with a lighter one. I dont know if it really gives hp or if I just think it does... I dont really care, BUT I can safely say that THE CAR improved NOTABLY, just like it did when I installed the UDP.
Stop looking at the people that buy or ACTUALLY DO upgrades, like if they are doing the wrong thing. It's always like that. We share the info on the parts or mods we do, and theres somebody like " If I would've done it, I would do it this way".... DO IT! and then you have the necessary EXPERIENCE to actually steer ppl in the right direction
that's why I am explaining the benefits of the flywheel, but if you don't like being educated feel free to walk around ill-informed.i will buy a flywheel eventually, because I know the benefits. I will buy the lsd as well. I won't replace either until the clutch goes out though, I'm saving already
Actually it doesn't matter what you buy and what you install. IS understanting what we are talking about... if you know for instance that a BOV does not adds HP , pleae don't come here and say that the car feels faster just by installing it


