I have a BAD feeling about this...
Thanks man, this helps a lot!!!
You gotta love these forums!
You gotta love these forums!
Like I said. Thas is the clutch's master, it takes the oil from the brake's master resevoir, hence the lines coming from it. If you have the stock clutch.. or your car is pretty much stock, take it to the dealership under warranty.
What happens is that the little O-ring inside bursts and it could be leaking from under that little plate with 4 little bolts in it
If not, and you are stepping up to do it, the part at least costed me 115 bucks. Take the false pedal( the one next to the clutch and against the door's plastic lining) Remove the clutch pedal assembly(watch it for the fuse box). You come across this brass circular plate and the master is bolted up to it. Before releasing them, go back to the engine bay, and loosen the line that goes to the slave cylinder, but the bolt that's in the master...I think it was a 17 mm or 19 mm. Release the master's bolts and the the plates. Remember you only loosen the line that goes to the master, now you have to take it away from the Master itself, unscrew it with your hand but CAREFUL, there are 2 little washers, and if they fall thru the carpet, youll have a bad time getting them back...TRUST ME.
Before installing the other one, MAKE SURE, you use the same adjustment the master had before installing it, do it by eye. Saves you having to do it after your done installing
What happens is that the little O-ring inside bursts and it could be leaking from under that little plate with 4 little bolts in it
If not, and you are stepping up to do it, the part at least costed me 115 bucks. Take the false pedal( the one next to the clutch and against the door's plastic lining) Remove the clutch pedal assembly(watch it for the fuse box). You come across this brass circular plate and the master is bolted up to it. Before releasing them, go back to the engine bay, and loosen the line that goes to the slave cylinder, but the bolt that's in the master...I think it was a 17 mm or 19 mm. Release the master's bolts and the the plates. Remember you only loosen the line that goes to the master, now you have to take it away from the Master itself, unscrew it with your hand but CAREFUL, there are 2 little washers, and if they fall thru the carpet, youll have a bad time getting them back...TRUST ME.
Before installing the other one, MAKE SURE, you use the same adjustment the master had before installing it, do it by eye. Saves you having to do it after your done installing
I had to learn by doing....So I rather help people with it. Cuz still reading it sounds a bit intimidating, but if you are hands on, it should be no problem... It's going to take a bit of cursing though...lol
Speaking of which, on my drive to RRM today, it completely failed on me 10 miles from the shop!!! Ugggghhh! Clutch pedal went to the floor without any resistance. So now I'm stuck on the freeway and had to call AAA to tow me to RRM. The first truck they sent out couldn't do it because my car was too low, so they sent a flatbed.
So that's one more part RRM has to replace!
Talk to Rob about the clutch master cylinder if you can. I would like to know more about this so I can include any parts in my drive train work next year or so. I expect to have to get a clutch next year, the turbo will eat mine up.
A note for the trendy people out there. If you want you can take the little plate( the one with the 4 little blots), there's a circular plate inside, when you take it out( dont pry it out) there's the O-ring, it should be all blown and chunks of rubber around. You can replace the O-ring, either with the same one, or, if you have a manufacturer around, get a high pressure O-ring... saves you 115 dollars and it makes sure it will last a bit more this time around. Be sure not to thrash the little paper gasket on the little plate, and NO silicone is needed to seal it....Not in case you wanna repair it yourself again in case it breaks down some day



a lot of
