Just yesterday I was stopped at a red light. Light turns green, and I can't get it into first gear! Nothing. All gears were locked out. I turn off the car, restart, and try again. Same thing. I take my foot and pump the clutch a few times and finally it engages.

For the rest of the day it seems fine. Weird. Now today, I can't get it into reverse. Obviously something is amiss. I can always get it engaged if I pump the clutch and around town driving seems to be ok, but more notchy than usual, especially 2nd.

My clutch pedal is adjusted just fine, I've already tried that. My underhood bushings look good. My tranni fluid is topped off and was changed when I had my clutch done last year. Brake/clutch reservoir looks good too.

Any suggestions... shifting forks, syncros? Please don't say that!

 

Syncros or linkage maybe?

 

Adjust your clutch

 

what does the fluid look like though, not level but condition. Do you beat the crap out of your brakes? Could be degraded fluid.

How many miles? What does the RRM clutch consist of? Do you get a pressure plate and the clutch disc? my buddy had an ACT clutch and pressure plate put in his Honda, and it exibited the same symptons before he couldn't drive it anymore.

It sounds like the clutch system to me, your symptoms would be more frequent and would not be in all gears, at least not until it becomes a major problem, if it were the transmission.

 

EDIT: adjust the clutch, and if that don't help, than it should be the clutch, cause it happen to my turbo rsx be4, it locks every gear out because of the bad clutch, i had to tow it to a shop and get it fixed. bad synchro shouldn't lock all the gears out

 

I wish that people would read the OP before posting. /crosses fingers

Come on people, really.

 

air on the lines bleed the clutch

 

Dude, your master cylinder maybe is ready to go. Mine started doing that, tried bleeding it and I got rid of it a couple of times, I thought that it was my pressure plate that went. I changed the clutch, my plate and disc were brand new still. I took me breaking the tranny's synchros to find out that it was the master cylinder all alone.

1. Try to get somebody to pump the clutch for you and start looking at the master cylinder... better ye, grab the whole master with paper towels, espacially on a little plate that has (4) 10mm screws.

2. Tell the person to pump, start looking to see if it bleeds, takes a little while for it to break the pressure if its leaking. Then tell the person to hold the clutch down for an extended period of time

P.S> a good indication that its leaking, is to check the level of your brake fluid, if its starting to go down, and you see the need to refill, maybe its just that

 

oh ok it is a Ralliart, does the clucth act differently then an Evo clutch?

 

OK thanks everyone for the input... I have a lot of suggestions to take a look at. I babied it today and had no probs except for the reverse lockout that started this post earlier in the day.

Anyone know if our clutch works the same as Evo? I know our shift linkage is the same.

 

works the same way, but is not the same..part numbers are different

 

i had a problem with getting into first gear and reverse until i put my short shifter in, noe it runs perfect with no problems, you have a Works shifter right? maybe something with the shifter bushings.

 

***UPDATE***

Found the leak! What's this part called below... It's against the firewall and the master cylinder lines run into it.

I can't figure out where's it leaking though. It leaves a nice oils spot overnight now. Is this an adjustment type thing or a replacement? Thanks!

 

is it the clutch slave cylinder? maybe need to be rebuilt/replaced. how long (miles) have you had a stiffer pressure plate? maybe this clutch system will not handle that kind of force but I doubt that's the root cause, possibly a contributing factor though. you are getting air in the system like this, definitely a big problem since this is shared with the brake system. CAREFUL MAN!

 

Like I said. Thas is the clutch's master, it takes the oil from the brake's master resevoir, hence the lines coming from it. If you have the stock clutch.. or your car is pretty much stock, take it to the dealership under warranty.

What happens is that the little O-ring inside bursts and it could be leaking from under that little plate with 4 little bolts in it

If not, and you are stepping up to do it, the part at least costed me 115 bucks. Take the false pedal( the one next to the clutch and against the door's plastic lining) Remove the clutch pedal assembly(watch it for the fuse box). You come across this brass circular plate and the master is bolted up to it. Before releasing them, go back to the engine bay, and loosen the line that goes to the slave cylinder, but the bolt that's in the master...I think it was a 17 mm or 19 mm. Release the master's bolts and the the plates. Remember you only loosen the line that goes to the master, now you have to take it away from the Master itself, unscrew it with your hand but CAREFUL, there are 2 little washers, and if they fall thru the carpet, youll have a bad time getting them back...TRUST ME.

Before installing the other one, MAKE SURE, you use the same adjustment the master had before installing it, do it by eye. Saves you having to do it after your done installing