Hi,

I got an UDP few days ago for my 2006 RA and decided to install it today...it failed.

I based my installation on this how to ( https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...tallation.html ) . I got stuck at step 9. I tried to pull the rachet to the front to pull the tensioner to the back, but neither the rachet or the tensioner would move. Am I missing something here ?

Unfortunatly, look what happened : http://img183.imageshack.us/my.php?i...mg00027xd2.jpg (look at in the red circle). A part of where I had put my rachet chipped off. There's no engine damage to that, but there's no way to put back a rachet and try again.

I really want that pulley badly. How can I push that tensioner back to remove the belt ? And how the hell did that tensioner broke ? The piece was at the garage temperature and no excessive force was applied to it. Could it be rust or a "bad tensioner" ?

Anyway, I would really like to have some help with this. I guess I could go to a shop and get that tensioner removed, install the pulley and put back the tensioner, but if there's a way to do it my self and save up some cash, that would be nice.

Thanks for your help,

Neo

 

Well even though you probably know already how to do this I figured you'd want to check out this thread since it has pictures

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...ve-pulley.html

Since you're tensioner broke though I'm not exactly sure how you could get it pulled back.... Straight up muscle it? or have a really strong friend just bare hand it and you can put the stick in....

 

this is EXACTLY what we tried and the tensioner would not move at all. Like it was stock by rust or I don't know ...

one guy over another forum suggested to try a strap like this ( http://www.whitehallrow.com/acc_images/strap.jpg ) . one end on the tensioner and another on the frame of the car. What do you think ?

 

I'm confused on how thats supposed to work... if you broke the hole than how would you hook it?

If you think it's stuck by rust... try spraying some anti-rust stuff on the joint maybe? after that maybe try muscleing it again... eventually though i think you're going to want to get it replaced when it comes to maintenance...

 

if it's stuck by rust, wouldn't this cause a problem with the tensioner ? I mean, it would not be able to pivot on its axe anymore.

I can't hook up the strap in the hole where the wrench was because the hole doesn't go throught the tensioner. I would need to attach the strap to the tensioner itself, as I can't see any good point to attach the strap. It's an idea, I'm not saying it's a good one.

I'm currently at 46 700 km (I'm Canadian) and I have a scheduled maintenance around 48 000 kms. Maybe the dealer could replace that tensioner. I would have to pay for it but it's my fault. Would you know how much a tensioner costs ? Or maybe the dealer can find a way to install the UDP somehow ...

 

I would not suggest getting the dealer to install the UDP because then they'd actually have it logged in their records that an aftermarket part has been installed and any problems within the engine they would try to blame on the part. I'd say look for the part online and have a local mechanics shop put it in if they're able to if you think the dealer may steal some more of your money. IF going local then maybe they'd be able to put the UDP in for you.

 

^ wha? dealer sells the UDP themselves. as well as other mods.

 

ahhh... well i dont think i've ever seen any dealer around here that does that.. guess its just about where you are... maybe its different up there in canada.. anyway well if they sell it then i dont see why not

 

yeh, im in edmonton and they sell RRM intakes and pulleys and such lol

infact, south side mitsubishi had a yellow ralliart that they modded. turbo'd i think it was with carbon fiber hood and other goodies and then sold it.

 

looks insanely rusted from pic.

IMO, take a rubber mallet, give it a few light taps in the order of rotation, or (being very careful) apply some WD40 with a Q-tip were the bearing is to free it up.

if you get it to where it can rotate, I suggest wrapping strap around where you broke a piece of the metal off and using a screw driver in the tiny hole on the underside at the same time (yeah it would take more than one person unless you're like an SRT-4 and can defy physics with your speed and strength) and just use both to turn it and finagle it open.

worst comes to worst, just take the tensioner off and get a new one from the dealership.

 

winter is pretty bad on our car here in Canada maybe this is why it has rusted.

and yes, some dealers here in Canada sell RRM parts. Boisvert Mitsubishi near Montreal is very well known to sell and install aftermarket parts as they have a Evo 9 MR and are in a rally competition.

 

time to buy a new tensioner, and clean up your engine

 

any idea on how much would that cost (the tensioner) ? I can't find the part on the internet

 

$93.81 on mitsubishiparts.com

 

the same thing happened to me, the part where you put the ratchet broke... my friend was able to push the tensioner back with his muscle while i quickly screwed in 2 of the bolts and got the sucker on. that tensioner thing is really cheap metal