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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

My SS Performance Ralliart Crankshaft

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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #16  
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I guess i should expect to be criticized for asking a question right??

1- was who has broken a crank?? well now i know SSP broke 3 cranks..

I was not criticizing the product but actually asking why the product is produced and who has proven it to 1000whp???

Since i dont have much experience with the 4g69 i will tell you that if you try possibly have]ing fluidampr develop a Crank pulley it may resolve the issue.. we have had that issue on the 2.0l FSI VW and the Dampr has proven to solve the issue with caps cracking along with crank..
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Realistic
i agree..and mike from awdmotorsports should maybe produce some product for us to buy, instead of critisizing the products others have produced.
Yea come on Mike, start making parts for the 4g69 lol we need more after market.
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 04:03 AM
  #18  
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Maybe Mike can work with Hackish??? they both seam to have goo knowledge of the 4G69. I can tell you haskish has turn my car into a Mother of a beast and he is not done with it yet.....
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 06:18 AM
  #19  
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Brent's just giddy after spanking a V8 mustang at 4psi of boost. I looked at the stock crank and determined it was built well enough. I always look for weak spots in a motor and have found the 4G69 has weak pistons & rods.

-Michael
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 08:46 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by hackish
Brent's just giddy after spanking a V8 mustang at 4psi of boost. I looked at the stock crank and determined it was built well enough. I always look for weak spots in a motor and have found the 4G69 has weak pistons & rods.

-Michael
pistons rods weak the truth
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 08:55 AM
  #21  
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yea the pistons and rods are the weakest part. which is why i upgraded them first. but if i'm doing everything in the motor, i mind as well do EVERYTHING. no sense in having one stock piece. that one stock piece could be the one that blows at 500whp and than i'm screwed, rebuilding a hole new motor all over again, with a year of downtime again. Do it all the right way the first time is the only way to go.

But wait... this is my 3rd time... lol. You know what i mean
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 04:06 PM
  #22  
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Yeah friggin Mitsu shaveing the rods trying to save on weight was a huge mishap for us anyways.
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 04:19 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Ralliart_on_LSD
yea the pistons and rods are the weakest part. which is why i upgraded them first. but if i'm doing everything in the motor, i mind as well do EVERYTHING. no sense in having one stock piece. that one stock piece could be the one that blows at 500whp and than i'm screwed, rebuilding a hole new motor all over again, with a year of downtime again. Do it all the right way the first time is the only way to go.
I'm not against doing things right. I've made close to 700bhp on a honda engine with a stock crank inside yet I've broken a ford crank at 550bhp. Well OK the block split in 2 so we really don't know if the crank broke first but you get the point.

Some parts are strong enough and do not need changing. Just because a part is being sold does not mean it's better than OEM and does not mean you must buy it. Many parts I see make you go faster only because your wallet is lighter and the corresponding weight reduction makes your car accelerate quicker.

-Michael
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 07:47 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by hackish
Many parts I see make you go faster only because your wallet is lighter and the corresponding weight reduction makes your car accelerate quicker.

-Michael
this is phenomenon is shown best in how stickers give you the greatest hp yield in terms of dollars spent
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #25  
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Like i said.... i didnt buy this part to bolt it on and add horsepower. I Did this to the motor so i dont have to worry about it cracking or blowing the hell up on me. a pre-caution. Like i said, i want to do it right the first time so i dont have to do it again and spend another 4 grand on a motor and parts.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 08:19 AM
  #26  
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hey mr. ralliart on LSD im making my car turbo now so im really interested in knowing what aftermarket pistons and rods are great for my car...also im interested on how much that crankshaft work costs? it sounds a very great safety feature for the stock crank.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 08:53 AM
  #27  
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message SSP-ralliart about the crank. I used RRM pistons. and any evo rod will fit in our 4g69.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 07:04 PM
  #28  
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this is making me want to keep my ralli art more and more. The only thing I wish is it was a 5spd.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 07:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by manolo2011
hey mr. ralliart on LSD im making my car turbo now so im really interested in knowing what aftermarket pistons and rods are great for my car...also im interested on how much that crankshaft work costs? it sounds a very great safety feature for the stock crank.
Manolo , ROAD Race ENGINEERING has forged pistons for the 4G69 for $500 with pins and rings (wiseco I believe) better than paying 800 from RRM.

If you fail to do this you can also call wiseco directly and buy them from them @ ~560.00

Last edited by migueralliart; Aug 24, 2009 at 05:39 AM. Reason: Edit: I can't believe RRM chages 799$ for this set.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 09:54 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by migueralliart
Manolo , ROAD Race ENGINEERING has forged pistons for the 4G69 for $500 with pins and rings (wiseco I believe) better than paying 800 from RRM.

If you fail to do this you can also call wiseco directly and buy them from them @ ~560.00
Ok so even if i picked up a set of these pistons what rod would you guys recommend to go with them? Or at least stock evo rods would fit you said right? Anyone know where those can be picked up?
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