Well guys last weekend I ended up picking up a new TPS for the hefty price of $220 I feel like I tired everything in the book to clean the terminals on the old one but nothing seemed to last for more than a couple of weeks. Now that I have the new unit installed everything is working great. I still dont quite understand how a part like this goes out. How do these terminals become crusty and black? For the 6 years of my cars existence I never once took this connector off. Just doesn't makes sense how this goes bad, but o well its fixed now!

 

What was the part number if you can remember? I think this is my only option left too...

 

Never use dielectric grease on any electrical contacts or connectors. This stuff is an electrical insulator. I recently cleaned a big wack of this crap out of a "broken" rear GM truck tailight connector, now the lights work! Just use fine sandpaper if you have to, then spray with an electrical cleaner, and leave it.

TPS are resistance elements encased in plastic. Inside is a contact arm that wipes across a film or wire resistance element. Over time, the film or wire can wear away, often in just a small spot, so you might get no throttle response only at certain throttle openings (like just off idle where the wiping and wear occurs most often). Its a mechanical thing, things wear out, its all normal and happens to every make of car.

 

this!

contact cleaner, if no go, replace, suck it up, cars are money pits, and as they age the pit gets deeper...

 

http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/cart/?pn=MR578861

 

agreed!

 

**** and tires, eh?

 

lol!!!

 

Hey guys, I had this same issue and finally purchased the MR578861. But with the new sensor when I first turned it on, the rpms went to their normal 750-850. but then they immediately shot up to about 2k and has stayed there a couple days. I have tried resetting the ECU by both unplugging it and unplugging my battery for an hour. Idle still stuck at 2000.

If I mate the sensor up with the accelerator pedal receiver and turn it back a little I can get the RPMS to drop down where they need to be, but the sensor partially covers the holes on the receiver. Has anybody else ran into this issue? I thought I read somebody running into the RPM issue on a new sensor (i thought Bakuro) but I cannot find it, should have bookmarked. Do I need to adjust/reset something with the new sensor? Any help appreciated, thanks.

 

When I installed the new sensor my rpms did run a little higher than normal, but after a few seconds they came back down. I believe I had to give it some throttle to reset the cable.

 

Yeah at was was what I was hoping would happen with the new one, this is the second new sensor I have grabbed because the first one did the same thing. At idle it rests at about 9-11% throttle, it still hits 100% at WOT but I have some room left on my pedal travel (about an inch or so). I was thinking about grinding a couple millimeters off of the cable receiver.

 

I didnt have to mess with anything after I changed my APPS. Where are you getting these percentage values? Is your ecu tuned or something? Because if your tune allows it you can reach WOT without pressing the pedal all the way down.

If this is your second APPS then I would look into replacing the throttle body, as it has a sensor on it that sometimes throws codes along with the APPS code. I wouldnt mess with the cables at all it should be plug and play.

 

Yeah it is tuned, but I reflashed the stock file and it did not change the idle. I did get a P2173 Code this morning that threw me into limp mode, Throttle actuator control system - High Air Flow Detected - this was with the new sensor in there.

 

It threw the P2173 Code (Throttle Actuator Control System - High Air Flow Detected) a few times this weekend with the new APP Sensor and dropped into limp mode, but this only happens when I am going up a hill. When the car used to throw the P2121 Code (old APPS), to my recollection I was always going up a hill as well (usually happens the same place every morning, regardless of time driven prior to reaching it).

I hooked up the original (Ralliart) Throttle body on the car and it made the idle go down, but it is struggling to stay on. I tried it with both the new and old APP sensor, same issue. Starts up just fine and then once it drops down past 2000rpm is starts to shake and struggle.

I put the newer Throttle Body (Galant) on with the old APP Sensor, everything is running fine now, but will eventually throw P2121. If I hook up the new APP sensor the idle goes back to 2000RPM. To get the car running normally if it throws either of the codes, I just unplug the APP and plug it back in and drive on.

The other odd thing is that with the old APP sensor, Evoscan reads the Throttle position at -1.9% and at WOT goes up to 4%. The newer APP sensor will give accurate readings, 14% at idle with the newer Throttle body, 8% with the original. Both will read 100% at WOT.

After reading around a bit the only thing I can think of is possibly a new MAF? Anybody have some input? I have tried resetting the ECU by both unplugging it and disconnecting the battery for an hour, as well as reflashing the stock ECU file. Any help greatly appreciated here.

 

Try cleaning the MAF first then do a volts test if the range is off let me know i have a spare MAF I will send you.