Hey guys!
i have a 2004 ralliart and i just installed the RRM CAI system 4 days ago and the service engine light turned on as planned. i disconnected the battery and everything afterwards. the thing is it turned on again so i took the car to the dealer where i got the car. i bought the car used 6 months ago and supposedly came with a 1 year warranty. They just called me to tell me that the MAF sensor is not working but guess what, the MAF sensor is not covered by the warranty. a new one would cost between 600 and 400.
So my question really is, does anyone know where to get mitsubishi parts online?
I don't feel like giving the dealership more of my money for something they should've taken care of before selling the car to me.
any help and/or advice is greatly appreciated!
thanks

 

Dont give the stealership your money!!!! they are wrong!!! its very common for the CEL light to come and stay on. its normal your car runs leaner with the cold air. you should try to push your filter on the tube a little bit more so it sucks less air, then try the reset again! unless you are for sure getting a code that says your MAF is bad.

 

what code?

 

you'll get a p0171 if you're car is running lean from the new intake, but you'll know there is something wrong with the MAF if you get a p0101, p0102, or p0103.

 

So what's your code? If it is the intake thats setting it off, its most likely a vacuum leak, in which in my case I've been having trouble with forever. However, I fixed it, I moved the filter up on the tube as far as I could get it and made sure it was straight, becuase the last time It was in there at an angle and it threw a code. If you think its your MAF then try cleaning it before you buy a new one, becuase it might not be needed. Just my 2 cents from experience. Oh, and I don't need another smarta$$ reply from myfakeevo this time, got it?

 

you would be surprised how often the dealership takes advantage of people. IMO always read the code when you get a SES light so you know what code it threw, can look it up, and find out generally what the problem is to prevent the dealership from ripping you off.

Plus no one hear can REALLY help until you tell us what code your car is throwing

 

well, actually the dealership told me that the o2 sensor needed to be replaced, i thought i heard MAF sensor over the phone when they called me, but when i received the invoice, they said it was the o2 senor.
but anyways, i took my car to a friends shop up in NYC and he plugged in his computer to check what the problem was and he told me that the computer showed 2 errors, one was for the o2 sensor(s) and the other one he didn't know. if i had known about the error codes i would have asked him to tell me the codes
i have noticed that the car runs good even for the CEL to be on but i have also noticed that when the car is idling, it kinda revs up and stalls not by much but it's just not a "steady" idle.
don't know if i should get that CEL eliminator from RRM

 

my friend also told me that the intake was "poorly designed" and that it's causing the problem and i should go back to the stock intake

 

If its the RRM cold air there is no way its poorly designed! a bunch of people on here run that intake with no problems. they are lancer experts

 

yeah, i know! that's what i was telling my friend. I'm not the only one who owns one of these CAI's.

 

you should always give us the specific code your car throws more than "my friend in NYC said this was the problem". Not to discredit him, but you should always post the exact coed you get if you want to get the most amount of help from us as a community.

As for your problem, sounds like your o2 sensor in your tail pipe is detecting a problem due to the new intake and doesn't know the right fuel trim due to the new amount/temp/density of the air going in, are you sure after you installed the CAI you disconnected the battery to reset the ecu, started the car, let it idle for 15 mins and drove it for 20 mins conservatively under 3k rpm so that the ecu could learn the appropriate fuel trims?

 

well, i'll try it once again. last time i only disconnected the negative and let it idle for 10 mins. never drove it right after that.
if i had known you guys worked better with the error codes, i would have asked for them. sorry about that
i'll keep you posted

 

hey guys.
guess what, the CES light is still on, i did disconnect the battery, let it idle for 15min and drive it for 20, but you see, somehow i thought i had read i had to keep the rpm's at 3000 and that's what i did TWICE. LOL. yep, i did the whole process twice but i think i might have to do it one more time since i know now that i have to stay under 3000 rpm's. just one quick question, for the 20 mins. do you mean something like a highway where i don't stop very often or anywhere is good and do i have to drive the car right after letting the car idle for 15min or do i have to turn it off and then drive for 15 min...
also, could it be that the o2 sensor is dirty or something? (just asking)
anyways, i'll try it again, but doing it right this time.

 

pull the code, it'll help with online diagnosis more than what you typed.

Honestly the CEL/SES is just a friggin light, I took mine out I got tired of seeing it. Intakes are known to give the CEL/SES so honestly I wouldn't worry about it. Theres like 38473 members I know locally and online that have the same issue, have mods and have the light. Just rip it out, you'll know when your car has issues.

 

+1

and for the learn period, any neighborhood street is fine.