Hey crew
Been playing around with all kinds of ethanol fuels and pumps for a few years now in the NA lancer.
The fuel pumps dont take to kind to having full power run to them 100% of the time
What happens is you burn the connector out that plugs in to the top of the fuel filter.
On the bright side, that plug is the same as used in Evo X, 7 , 8 , 9 also and some Holden Commodore , Toyota etc
So to over come this i was having a chat to Merlin Tuning about this and how the Evo 1 - 10 over come this issue.
The ECU controls the fuel pump and theres a resistor that the 12v is feed in to to drop the power back to 9v so the pump doesn't run 100% of the time at 12v

The next challenge is to how an emulate this idea in the NA lancer that doesn't have that ECU output.
Merlin suggested a Hobbs vacuum switch and I went from there and designed a circuit and fine tuned it after installation and have it working very nicely now.
You will need a Hobbs vacuum switch to begin with. I used one that works at -6Hg
You'll want a few waterproof relay , at least 2 maybe 3. Some decent diodes, i went nuts with 30 amp diode and those diode in this circuit are major overkill however they will outlast the planet. I also used some 105 degree Celsius 50v 220uF NP capacitor , I used about 3 of those , and you will also need a 5 watt 470 ohm resistor .
I bought about 10 x 30 amp diode off ebay for about $10 , they are used in solar array. Cheap as chips. At least I know they will be bullet proof. Use the 105 degree Celsius non polarised capacitor as its under the bonnet so you need a bit of head room for heat.

The circuit works a treat and I added a few item to the circuit to reduce relay chattering .
So i have got a red led off the 9v circuit mounted in the cabin next to an AFR gauge so i know when the 9v circuit is running and green led off the 12v circuit so i know when the 12v is running
For leds, I found a mixed bag of 12-24v leds on AliExpress for next to nothing
Ran a 4 wire speaker cable in to the cabin
Off that 4 wires is the 2 wires off the Spartan 3 to gice me ground wire and the 0-5v for the AFR gauge and the 2 remainder wires are to send 9v or 12v to red or green led
This way with the AFR gauge in the bottom corner of the wind screen and the leds , you can have in tthe corner of your eye real time reading of what's going on
If you stand on the throttle and the led stays red, get off the throttle and do fault finding . Small things like this go a long way to protect your motor

So when the car starts it runs the 12v circuit till motor starts and kicks back to 9v. And when running if you give the throttle a stab the 12v circuit kicks in

The hobbs switch gets mounted in to the vacuum line off the inlet manifold.
If you look on the right side if the motor you will see the metal tube the brake booster hose will attach too
Follow it back ofoff the brake booster line
I used some Goss emissions hose from Repco to sort that out.
I didn't cut the original hose so its all fully reversible if ever needed
Attach the Hobbs to one end of the OEM hose, install Hobbs with a Tridon fuel clip at each end to screw down and hold in place and same where the hose attached to the metal tube.
Also if you haven't done so already, you will need an extra relay underneath the seat, by pass the oem wiring and use the OEM wiring as a trigger to fire up the relay to send power in to the fuel tank.
Wire the power from the relay in to the fuel filter assembly.
You will also need switched power under the bonnet to run the circuit under there to
Look at the fuel pump wiring here and use that


https://www.startmycar.com/mitsubishi/lancer/info/fusebox/2012#anchorfusebox0

I think that pretty much cover it all off
If you use a fuse tap in the fuse box double check where the 12v side is
In mine the 12v side of the fuse was the side closest to the outside of the vehicle.

I think everything else you need to know i have written down in the circuit diagrams

You need 2 x relay mounted under the bonnet
One to turn the 12v on and off with ignition
The 2nd to flick between 9v and 12v circuit
Plus
The relay at the fuel tank to by pass all the OEM wiring

Oh
And the 0.5 ohm 100 watt resistor I found in AliExpress for a few $$ cos I couldn't source anything locally
At idle now the resistor sits quite nicely just under 50 degrees Celsius and is bolted to the chassis at both ends with around 20mm self drilling screws
Make sure you get the ones with a very small head on them so they dont bind in the case of the resistor.
And when all installed, most of the time 9v circuit is running
And when you give the throttle a bit of a kick the 12v circuit kicks in and off goes the fuel pump
And when the load levels out, it drops back to 9v again
Also can't remember if I noted it or not
In the hobbs switch between C and NC where you send C back to ground and the NC back to the 2nd relay, you need a 470 ohm resistor and 220uF NP capacitor i mentioned earlier
Wire those in series and mount them between the N and NC connector in the hobbs to help reduce chattering.
I think that covers the lot

Enjoy the dual stage fuel pump power circuit and no more burning out fuel filters, wiring and the rest

Hope this helps someone
Enjoy my circuit, it was a fun project to work on and no doubt will work in other cars that have just 12v going to the fuel pump 100% of the time like the NA lancer

https://imgur.com/a/sPvgHlM#yTtcvsA

https://imgur.com/a/sPvgHlM#sQCvEYU

1st relay under the bonnet to feed the 2nd relay that flicks between 9v and 12v
[img alt="2nd relay that switches the 9v and 12v circuit control by the ground pin off the Hobbs switch
Both relays are energise by the fuel pump fuse .
I used a fuse tap with 2 amp fuse tap on it and then it feeds in and splits in to 2 x 30 amp diode to feed both relay.the diodes will prevent back feed back in to the fuse box incase it all goes wrong "]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evolutionm.net-vbulletin/1420x2000/20260522_1410_ce3ab160c6fe170e3758689829f202c65b09 6edc.jpg[/img]
2nd relay that switches the 9v and 12v circuit control by the ground pin off the Hobbs switch Both relays are energise by the fuel pump fuse . I used a fuse tap with 2 amp fuse tap on it and then it feeds in and splits in to 2 x 30 amp diode to feed both relay.the diodes will prevent back feed back in to the fuse box incase it all goes wrong

 

Forgot to add a few extra pictures before I get all kinds of wild accusations thrown at me

The -6 vacuum hobbs switch i used

https://imgur.com/a/sPvgHlM#DA5nw5G

https://imgur.com/a/sPvgHlM#OBTTehf
The prototype circuit

https://imgur.com/a/sPvgHlM#pUVGonH

It got some upgrades along the way after testing it, all documentation done on the 2 x a4 pages of circuit information

You can see where the fise tap is for the fuel pump

https://imgur.com/a/sPvgHlM#KsZGmYL

These monster got soldering up with the capacitor and used across the coils of relay A and relay B under the bonnet for the dual stage

https://imgur.com/a/sPvgHlM#8J9Y8li

Once soldered up , i wrapped in silicone self fusing tape then a few coats of liquid electrical tape to keep ot all water tight
Did that on all joins needing waterproof protection

They look like this
https://imgur.com/a/sPvgHlM#KWUwqRJ
Red wire goes to the white band side of the diode
That white band side goes to 12+ on the relay coil and the blue wire goes to 12- on the relay coil

That should keep you entertained for some time

Enjoy

 

Also
If your wondering what the Evo / Ralliart resistor looks like that takes the 12v and knocks down to 9 v then wonder no more

https://imgur.com/a/8DC0USl#NWpQhQA

Its mounted to a bracket on the firewall

https://imgur.com/a/8DC0USl#b85SODw

And the 0.5 ohm 100w resistor i use looks like this

https://imgur.com/a/8DC0USl#sCaxlJg

You could also make an improvement by using 2 x 1ohm resistor 100w and wire them in parallel for the 9v circuit
This should reduce heat a bit and give a bit of redundancy if one fails
Possibly
Shouldn't fail though, temps are quite sensible at 9v the resistor is less then 50 degrees Celsius

If someone wants to redraw the circuit and post it up go nuts
I started with the single 5 pin relay for the 12v and 9v switching and just kept building on my ideas and then tweaked it even more once it was installed
Anyhow
All the thinking has been done for you

Enjoy

 

Let's try these circuit diagrams again

 

You can use this circuit also if you want to convert an NA to Forced induction and run ethanol with a decent fuel pump
Change the vacuum hobbs switch to a pressure switch and your off and racing
Enjoy