You should have seen my intake valves when my belt snapped lol. Doesn't help my belt snapped at a 5k rev

 

lol, i can imagine...mine look like if I just replaced the timing belt it would still run...i was at fairly low RPM, and it died instantly, and my first instinct was to take it to neutral...Mivec shoves the valves deeper into the cylinder, does it not?? that's maybe why you had more damage?

here's the bare naked head...the weather was poopy today, so all i did today was take my calipers off and paint them...i'm going to have my stock rotors machined this week also...transmission will be coming out next weekend...not much to update on this weekend was basically stripping the head...just got a few aesthetic items i've been wanting to do...brakes mainly...

 

Mmmm. Schooner beer - won't get much more maritime than that. Wife said that it's OK if we meet up on the way down. I will be heading down Friday, not sure what time yet - around noon perhaps? I think a case of Keiths or Coors Light would be just fine. Don't mind a good quality Niagara red either :P I'm easy that way.

I'll pull the valves today for you. Just FYI when you get the head ported make sure they don't touch the intake port entrance. I've seen one head done by a Co in the USA and they hogged everything out bigger but it flowed worse across the board! The exhaust on that head can use a bit of work as well as the short radius on the intake.

-Michael

 

i decided against porting at the moment, unless you think there is a fairly significant benefit, otherwise i'm going to leave it alone...my friend said the labour and cost wouldn't be worth the gain, since i'll be boosting anyway, and i trust his opinion...the head is at the shop with all the little pieces...if the machinist decides the valves can be reused, he will rework and lap them as well...i'll find out in a couple days if that's the case...

 

Holy *&^%$#$$. I feel your pain man. Had one go on me a few years back, not with my RA, but definitely not nice. Exhaust valves are always very expensive in my experience. I hope you can reuse yours. To me it would be worthwhile to port the head, unless we have some fantastic casting. I have never seen a 4G69 head, but any other stock head I have seen has extra material in the port right by the valve seat. Get the port flush with the valve seat, then throw some sandpaper on it.(The port, not the seat) It takes a few hours with a rotary file.

Do you order from Southwest in Texas ?
They have sweet prices for genuine parts and seem accommodating for shipping. I do USPS to save, but with their prices you maybe able to do UPS or Fedex and still save over stealer prices in Ontario.
Good luck, I hope you are up and running soon.

 

continuing the timing belt talk, i just had mine done and it was a good thing i did... lol the water pump was leaking... so io have the belt, the WP, tensioner, balancer belt, and my valves lashed in one shot. it's a rifferent car lol thanks for the heads up!

 

I ordered from mitsubishiparts.net...i was going to order from jnz tuning it is very similar, and the prices are basically the same, but i had all the parts i needed in a cart and mitsubishiparts.net was about 60 bucks cheaper which isn't really a big deal...but i figured, hey with price of fuel, that's a tank of gas and a pack of smokes...

No problem, better to take care of it now, than after if breaks, lol...

Ryan told me you were in there talking about me I went to ask him about parts, and got a quote...i almost shyt myself...i was hoping to get a few things locally so i didn't have to wait on shipping but the prices were so outrageous i had to order online...

 

Ok, well, my head is done at the shop, oddly enough the machinist determined that the valves were not damaged beyond repair and was able to grind and lap them...so i found that kind of odd, since they put dent in the pistons, but this guy does work for a guy i know and he says he's good, so i imagine he knows what he's doing...

on a side note, i had a different machinist do my brake rotors...since i cleaned and painted my calipers, and my front rotors were warped anyways, i figured i'd have them all done...i even had them bead blast the hats as well so i can paint them...especially the rears where the disc sits so deep behind the wheel...i've heard of people painting the disc surface right up to where the pad makes contact, but that doesn't seem like a good idea, cause they will corrode eventually anyways, it's just that huge drum on the rear discs that looks bad when it's rusty...

so here's how they look...you probably can't see it, but there is actually a jacket on the bed in the first pic...lol

 

good stuff. now do a BS delete before you put it all back together!!!

 

how much does it cost and what is the benefit?

 

cost... i'd say $30 for the parts? benefit... free up more power and less chance of something breaking on you next time?

i'd say only con is that you'll feel alot more vibrations from the engine. not to mention its even more magnified if you have a solid motor mount.

 

30 dollars for the cheap kit. i think 150 for the good kit. Bad thing about the cheap kit is you have a much greater chance of oil pump failure. thats coming straight from AMS's sales rep. they sell em both.

 

err... water pump? having a brain fart. but yea.

 

I got mine from RussellM

 

Road race engineering sells a bs elim for like 60. And while you feel more vibration u free up power and then less likely that Lil stupid belt will kill ur tbelt like it did mine.