belt tensioner
there's not really a guaranteed amount of mileage you con put on a bearing before it goes, you know? so it's hard to say, but you are correct that it's most likely one of the pullies that rides the back (smooth side) of the belt...
water pump was replaced at 100k during my whole engine rebuild. original idler and tensioner were kept at the time. is there one i'm forgetting?
Just a FYI, about a month after i replaced by serpentine belt tensioner it started squeaking every so often. The funny thing is if i have the car running and spray some "4 way" grease lub stuff around the tensioner bearing the squeak goes away. I called Gates (company i bought the new tensioner from and they said they couldn't help me). So I just deal with the squeak every so often. Must be a super cheap bearing!
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Installed the tension yesterday! It went super good. The hardest part was holding the tensioner back with one arm and un-doing the belt. "Crankswick" It ended up just being 2 bolts. The main center bold and a bottom right bolt that went through the oil filter housing. Everything is running good, and my squeaky bearing is gone. Thanks guys for all the help!!
I'm doing this today...after removing those two bolts, there's tension on the tensioner housing, is there a problem/concern when pulling the assembly off with this tension from the spring and any issues getting it back on?
Depends. Just removing it ?
No problem.
Regarding getting it back on, do you have a new one ?
If so then all is well. Dont pull the pin till you are DONE.
If you are reusing the old one, then you need a vise or C clamp to compress the tensioner, and a pin, ( a small allen key works well) to put in the hole to keep it in the compressed position.
No problem.
Regarding getting it back on, do you have a new one ?
If so then all is well. Dont pull the pin till you are DONE.
If you are reusing the old one, then you need a vise or C clamp to compress the tensioner, and a pin, ( a small allen key works well) to put in the hole to keep it in the compressed position.
Hope this answers your question.
Steps I followed:
1. Put a (1/2inch or what ever size) drive in the square box and released the pressure on the tensioner. While doing this i had someone stick a screwdriver threw the two holes that will line up as you release the tension.
2. Removed the two bolts
3. Took the tensioner off.
4. On the new tensioner I put the bottom in a vise and turned the top with the same wrench and drove a pin through that same hole like on the old one.
5. Screwed the new tensioner on.
6. Put the belt over the tensioner.
7. Pulled the pin out
8. Done!
Steps I followed:
1. Put a (1/2inch or what ever size) drive in the square box and released the pressure on the tensioner. While doing this i had someone stick a screwdriver threw the two holes that will line up as you release the tension.
2. Removed the two bolts
3. Took the tensioner off.
4. On the new tensioner I put the bottom in a vise and turned the top with the same wrench and drove a pin through that same hole like on the old one.
5. Screwed the new tensioner on.
6. Put the belt over the tensioner.
7. Pulled the pin out
8. Done!
Sorry to hear that mikemike you bought it directly from gates? You must have not talked to them right cause I never had a problem with gates I have a gates timing belt and bearings which were nsk bearings.. Did you have any automotive background to back up your claim? Are you sure your not getting some on the belt did you mark the direction of the old belt its possible you changed the direction..
There's a bando tensioner on mine not sure when it was put on but haven't had any problems
There's a bando tensioner on mine not sure when it was put on but haven't had any problems
Last edited by RacerX-Ralliart; Jun 27, 2012 at 09:46 AM.
Sorry to hear that mikemike you bought it directly from gates? You must have not talked to them right cause I never had a problem with gates I have a gates timing belt and bearings which were nsk bearings.. Did you have any automotive background to back up your claim? Are you sure your not getting some on the belt did you mark the direction of the old belt its possible you changed the direction..
There's a bando tensioner on mine not sure when it was put on but haven't had any problems
There's a bando tensioner on mine not sure when it was put on but haven't had any problems
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
2004 Ralliart Tensioner Pulley Replacement
Okay, my worries were eliminated after < (30) minutes:
1. Removed right front tire
2. Removed splash guard
3. Removed Serp belt from UDP and Tensioner pulley ONLY
4. Remove center 14mm bolt, and 12mm bolt from lower right corner of tensioner housing.
5. Remove assembly from block
6. Remove 12mm bolt to seperate old pulley; replace with new pulley
7. Reinstall pulley housing/assembly and replace serp belt around tensioner and UDP pulleys. Inspect serp belt around all pulleys.
8. Reassemble vehicle, start engine and inspect
1. Removed right front tire
2. Removed splash guard
3. Removed Serp belt from UDP and Tensioner pulley ONLY
4. Remove center 14mm bolt, and 12mm bolt from lower right corner of tensioner housing.
5. Remove assembly from block
6. Remove 12mm bolt to seperate old pulley; replace with new pulley
7. Reinstall pulley housing/assembly and replace serp belt around tensioner and UDP pulleys. Inspect serp belt around all pulleys.
8. Reassemble vehicle, start engine and inspect
Last edited by truthdweller; Jun 27, 2012 at 03:41 PM.
I must not have talked to the right person. I told them that my OEM tension bearing was squeaking and they told me to order a new one from them. Put it on and it squeaked still after some use. I know for sure it was the bearing, because if I spray some oil on the bearing while it is running, the squeak goes away. Its really hit and miss, depending on the temperature outside and such. So honestly I just bear with the little noise when it happens.