I have an 04 ralliart and for the past few months it has been acting like there has been water in the fuel, it will start and idle for a min then just shut off. I have had this problem while driving as well i have had it loose all power as if someone has hit the brakes or just completely shut off. I have added fuel treatment several times as well as cleaned the air filter and checked everything I can think of, the fuel pump is running and I just cleaned the air filter can someone help me please?

 

Clogged Fuel filter? This may sound stupid but my brothers minivan had similar symptoms caused by a loose connection on the battery. Good luck

 

Are you getting any check engine lights? Sounds almost like the evap emissions problem I had a while back.

 

I will fully check the fuel system tomorrow it just got dark and cold. As for the check engine light it has been on since I put the turbo system on so I can't judge anything by that

 

What did you have to do to fix the evaporated emissions problem?

 

Ah that makes it tricky then... Well for me the evap problem was a solenoid on the passenger side of the intake Mani that wasn't working, replaced that and had no issues. But if your turbo'd that poses some other options. How are you tuned and or controlling your fuel management?

 

I am still tuned with the stock settings that came with the ecu from road race I will try changing the three filters on the fuel system and looking for that solenoid hopefully one of those fixes it

 

hmm..i know this sounds bizarre but i used to have that issue when i let my fuel levels drop really low (like below the 1/4 mark w/fuel low light)..i also got the P0401 and P0441 codes when i got into that situation..

the problem started right when i would fill up with some gas and start the car..it was hard to start like it was trying really hard to start but wasn't doing it..the dashboard lights would flash on and off..it would keep cranking and cranking but not starting..when it finally starts, my idle would be really low and my RA would try its hardest to keep itself from dying..i would have to give it some throttle so that my RA wouldn't die..i would rev it and rev it and rev it to get some fuel into the engine and it would be fine after a while (maybe about 10 mins of using the throttle to keep it from dying)

after a while i'm like "!!!SCREW THIS!!!"..i cleared the codes and i never let the fuel go below the 1/4 mark..i never EVER encountered these problems again and the codes never came back as well..

*PHEW*

maybe i just got lucky?

so to double-check if my theory about the fuel levels were right, i let it drop below 1/4 mark and waited until the fuel low light came on..i kept driving it and driving it and i'm like "okay, i'm about to run out of fuel..let's go fill her up!"..so i did..and guess what! VOILA! the problem was back..my RA was being weird again..i knew my theory was right so from that day on, i always make sure to never go too low on fuel..

it's just like that song by LUDACRIS! "how low can you go? how low can you go?"

that's my story for the day

 

Not entirely sure if this will help but before I went spending money I would attempt resetting the ECU and Piggyback that RRM uses to tune. Ive heard stories of weird things happening with that piggyback and often times resetting it would correct a few things. Worth a shot Id think.

 

So a little update on the drivers side of the engine is a point for an airline that typically goes form the block to the intake manifold, I took off the rubber hose and happened to look inside and found what appeared to be water and grease. I am going to install an inline filter in between that and my intake and see if that cures the problem. On a side note does anyone know what those two ports do for the engine? Can I just run the one from the right side to the one on the back?

 

Thats probably oil from inside your valve cover its normal. That is there to take in fresh air into the valve cover. If you do anything with it I would add an oil catch can between the cover and the intake. Removing it doesnt really do anything. But that wouldn't attribute to the problem your having with the stalling.

 

scan the ECU, and pull the codes, turbo or not, you shouldn't have any DTC's...with the light on, other DTC's can pop up, the light only tells you there's something wrong, it could be more than one thing.

don't connect the valve cover vent to the intake manifold, or valve cover to itself...you can vent the valve cover (crank case ventillation) to atmosphere, but if the intake side is left unplugged, that's a leak and will throw out your MAF signal. the hose on the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold contains your PCV valve (positive crank case vetillation), it's a check valve, don't **** with it.

you should be doing boost leak checks, a leak-down check, or at the very least a compression check. reset the ECU after pulling the codes, and reset the piggyback ECU. Do you not have a wideband?

 

So, I have placed two aftermarket air filters on the vents for the engine, and then took out the spark plugs p. they were in desperate need of replacement so I changed all four of them and drove it down to the gas station and filled it up and added some fuel treatment and cleaner and after the spark plug change I think it is running better than before so I think I have fixed the issue. I will know after a week or so of driving and see if it dos it again. As for the wide and I dot have one yet I have not been able to pull together the couple hundred dollars for one but it is on my list for the near future

 

As a side note the plugs looked as if it was running a bit rich, it may be a discussion for a new thread but does anyone know how to turn that down a little?

 

could you get a picture of how you've set that up?