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Help trying to find replacement part

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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 07:12 AM
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Help trying to find replacement part

Please help, I'm trying to find a replacement for the 'Mivec valve controller' or 'oil feeder valve' or 'oil control valve', whatever you may call it I need a new one, Mitsubishi part number mn137240. My timing belt went while I was driving and when disassembling my cylinder head I noticed the OCV was kind of hanging/dangling, upon looking at it more I realized it was broken, I thought nothing of it figuring it was an easy fix. Why does this part have to be so hard to find outside of Mitsubishi itself? Any help would be appreciated, thanks
Attached Thumbnails Help trying to find replacement part-image.jpg  
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 07:37 AM
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it's a pretty important piece of kit, and it's unlikely you'll find an aftermarket replacement...
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 09:37 PM
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I've learned it's importance, but not looking for aftermarket just maybe one from a wrecked car or something. I believe the dealership is priced at $400-$500 hoping to find one maybe half or hopefully less than that
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 01:51 AM
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I'll check and see if I have an extra , I think I might .
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 05:42 AM
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It's $270 here:
http://oemmitsubishiparts.com/parts/...&siteid=214331
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by lanzerralliart
I'll check and see if I have an extra , I think I might .
Thanks Lanzer that would be great.
Also thank you RA that's super helpful. I can't wait to get my car back on the road

I'm also in the process of replacing my valves and everything that goes with that, any suggestions on where to get valves, guides, seats? All that fun stuff you need for that job, I've found 'sets' on eBay that 'fit' my RA but I'm sure that RodkAuto is much more reliable, more than likely getting the valves from there but where do you get guides from? I'm also pretty sure that I'm going to have a machine shop install everything for me since I lack the proper tools for that job. Never had to do this before on a fuel injected car, how do I know the machine shop isn't ripping me off with their price (and no I haven't gotten an estimate yet). All help is appreciated.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 05:18 AM
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Why do you think you have to replace the valve guides ?
A decent machine shop would check your valves and let you know if they really are bent.
Do you have marks on the piston indicating contact, if so how bad ?
I too would just use Rock Auto, and for anything they did not have, I'd use the link above.
I dont think there is anything different about this type of repair due to the car being fuel injected. If you've worked on an OHC engine before you're good.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 01:48 PM
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yeah there's no sense getting new valves, seats and guides unless the machinist tells you you need them...otherwise they can just reseat and lap the valves, and deck and dip the head...mine cost around $280, and that's after disassembling the head myself, i gave the machinist the valves in a zip-lock sandwich bag...i labelled them to their corresponding seat, but i'm not sure if he even needed that since he was reseating them anyways...

valve guide you would need to order from mitsubishi, and they are tolerance specific, so you'd need to put a micrometer to the stem before you order them anyways...
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 07:18 AM
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Thanks, I did have 2 severely bent valves and 2, hopefully not more, cracked valve guides. I did take it to a machinist, luckily we have a great one near me, he checked it out, told me it shouldn't be more than $300-$350 all depending. I just bought my valve guides, seats, head bolts, and gaskets today. I plan on taking my head in as soon as my parts come in. Unfortunately I haven't done a job like this before, but I know slow and steady repair makes my car run better. To add to my fun I am also doing a upper engine rebuild on my 1985 Nissan 720 z24 king cab, the head gasket and intake manifold gasket blew.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 07:21 AM
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One different question, would a failing timing idler pulley cause my timing belt to go bad or shred? My timing belt going out was the beginning of my problems, but it didn't snap, it shredded. Trying to figure out the cause so I don't go through this again.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 07:30 AM
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Glad it's not an arm & a leg to repair man.

When last was the timing belt changed ?
The manual has every 100 000 km (60 000 miles) as the interval.

Exceeding this can be detrimental.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by munkibishi
One different question, would a failing timing idler pulley cause my timing belt to go bad or shred? My timing belt going out was the beginning of my problems, but it didn't snap, it shredded. Trying to figure out the cause so I don't go through this again.
yes, the three major causes of timing belt failure are: contamination (oil/coolant)...neglected maintenance (age)...improper tension (failure of tension related components)
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