Well I was just wondering is there any way to fix these problems or a reason they may have appeared?
I used part number 14 here

http://oemmitsubishiparts.com/parts/...p=AIR%20INTAKE

The evo x uses the same mass airflow sensor from what I have heard, so I got that and a 3 inch filter and it all fit together good, and the sensor mounted good. I can get pictures later today but one thing I did notice was that the diameter of the mass air flow sensor tube on the new one is 2.6 / 2.7 inches. Which I figured the computer could compensate for.
But as I'm driving it at first after resetting the computer for 10 or so minutes by dissconnecting the battery it drove a little weird, I would accelerate and the power wouldn't be there, and the intake made a sucking noise unlike when sitting parked. Then the second you hit 3,500 rpms everything works and its great. Also have a check engine light after the first few miles.
Has anyone hacked up the stock airbox and had this problem or used this piece before in their own intake? Or is there something I missed in my installation? Any help would be appreciated!

 

the sucking noise is normal, what code are you getting? the diameter on the MAF housing should be roughly the same...it's not like it's a 3" housing.

if it's weak it's definately not running lean, how long did you let it idle after ECU reset? and how much driving did you do afterwards?

 

i think your car just needs some time to get used to the new installation and also it needs to relearn everything as you reset the ECU. what i'm thinking is maybe you could pull the code and post it up on this thread. i'm a noob but i'm sure everyone here will pop by and give you some advice on how to tackle these problems. for now, give your RA some time. she should back on track in no time!

 

yooo whatup Garrett! lol i felt nice and cool thinking i'm the first to reply then i scroll up and i see your post ahaha lol.

@Ralliart367: you should definitely try to pull the code and let us know. that will give us more insight on what's going on with your RA.

cheers!

 

Well if your getting a CEL that would be helpful, like everyone has said.

You gotta give it a little time to relearn the difference in the air its taking in.

But the air filter you used, what kind is it? Sometimes they are oiled and it can foul the MAF. Make sure you didnt get an oiled air filter.

 

Just a 3 inch filter I got at pepboys it's not oiled I will post pictures here in a few minutes
How do you pull a code? I never really messed with the ecu before
Also when I disconnected the battery I didn't do it for long but I left it off overnight hoping that resets fuel trims
If someone has insight on how to get the error code then il defiantly do it today

 

It's not weak it's feels like all the power is there and it's not using it. But it doesn't do it every time I'd say every other time I take off and only in 2nd and 3rd but its really really noticeable

It idled about 10 minutes
And I drove it about I'd say about 45 minutes in total last night but I did a lot of stopping going in places and going back out and starting the car back up

 

hmmm a code reader is what you really need. you can do these:

1) try to get yourself an OBDII code reader. i got one from Princess Auto for $30 and it's worth every penny. i've tried getting them off eBay but they always break after a while so i just thought i'd get myself something a little more legit lol.

2) go to your local mechanic and ask him if he/she can pull the code for you. he'll be giving you a code that starts with a "P" followed by 4 numbers (correct me if i'm wrong please) and you can post that "CEL CODE" here on this thread.

3) i don't recommended this as i don't like this idea but if you have no other choice then go for it. buy an OBDII code reader from your local parts store, open up the packaging really nice and tidy, plug it in your RA (under the steering wheel/dashboard), pull the code, then return it to the store. i say return it because they usually cost $75+ if you buy them from a local store. i got lucky with my purchase from Princess Auto as it was on sale from $79.99 to $29.99.

hope this helps!

 

is your car automatic or manual? where is the crank case venting?

and for pulling codes i got a chinese ELM 327 bluetooth OBD2 module ($15) on ebay, and i can datalog, pull codes, and reset CEL's with my smart phone (app was $10).
but you can buy stand alone scanners pretty cheap these days as well.

and i don't want to insult you, but is the sensor installed correctly? i.e. not backwards...

 

How much will it cost to get a shop to pull the code for me?

 

they usually do it for free if you're nice and if they feel like being nice

 

No insult taken, but yes it is on correctly in the right direction and is not wiggling

Is manual and if what I think your asking is correct then it is still in the stock tube the same way, I just used the stock tube and added the mass air flow sensor tube and a fliter

 

Are you getting a check engine light on your gauge cluster? If so that code would help. Any Autozone, Advance, PepBoys, Oreillys should be able to pull the code for you. And they should do it for free.

Do you have a picture of how you have it setup? That could help as well. If your using the snorkel off the stock airbox that helps to SLIGHTLY cool it off but your engine could be getting use to all the hot air its sucking up. I'd reset the ECU again let it idle for 10-15 minutes then take it for a drive, not thru a town or city if you can help it. A long back road where you can really let the engine purr for a while would be good Id think.

 

I was gonna get a picture but its raining should pass really soon in a few minutes.
I let the negative terminal stay disconnected over night ima try and let it idle again for 10 minutes then drive down the highway il post a picture before