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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

Strange Issue with Shifting

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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 05:56 AM
  #16  
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Another bypassed modulator, another CMC bites the dust.
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #17  
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Good detective work, 2006_RA!

Don't know who came up with the idea in the first place that it is "good" to remove the modulator. Maybe it's not the vendor who has this quote for the bare RA clutch line, and uses this phrase to describe the effect of the modulator: "Perhaps you noticed how wimpy your stock clutch feels?"

Geez, I just got back from a driving school day at the track. The school owner took my RA out for several laps and genuinely liked how it performed, he even complimented it in front of the other instructors at lunch, too. And to think, I have the "wimpy" clutch system!

I'm only commenting 'cause I feel bad for the RA guys who trusted this mod. I was considering it myself.
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 06:51 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by RalliartN
Good detective work, 2006_RA!

Don't know who came up with the idea in the first place that it is "good" to remove the modulator. Maybe it's not the vendor who has this quote for the bare RA clutch line, and uses this phrase to describe the effect of the modulator: "Perhaps you noticed how wimpy your stock clutch feels?"

Geez, I just got back from a driving school day at the track. The school owner took my RA out for several laps and genuinely liked how it performed, he even complimented it in front of the other instructors at lunch, too. And to think, I have the "wimpy" clutch system!

I'm only commenting 'cause I feel bad for the RA guys who trusted this mod. I was considering it myself.
+1

i was considering this mod too and i just thought to myself: "why remove something that was put there for a purpose?"

good thing we stuck to our "wimpy" clutch
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 07:21 AM
  #19  
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When I first bought the my Ralliart the clutch had been abused quite a bit so I had difficulty shifting and what not. The clutch that I replaced the OEM with felt softer imho but maybe thats because the OEM was in such bad shape. I still have the original clutch line with the modulator on it. I can swap that back in if needed. The CMC in my car lasted 105k miles before it went out (65000 on OEM and 30000 on Clutchmaster Stage 2). Any who, I ordered the evo 8 oem CMC today so when it comes in I will make a walk-through for the install.

Do you all think I should swap the stock clutch line back in with the modulator on it?
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 08:45 AM
  #20  
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when did you replace the line? at the same time as the clutch?

if you get stronger master and slave you can get away with keeping the aftermarket clutch line.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 09:07 AM
  #21  
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i say put the OEM clutch line + modulator back. at least if anything happens again, you would know that it's not the aftermarket clutch line that you put in. if everything goes smoothly, then that means the OEM clutch line + modulator is the way to go.

you can also try keeping the aftermarket line but then again why not just put it all back to stock since you had problems when you switched out the OEM line? that's just what i would do, personally.

can't wait for the HOW-TO on your evo 8 cmc install
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 09:30 AM
  #22  
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I replaced the stock clutch line 25k miles ago shortly after putting in the new clutch and flywheel.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 09:32 AM
  #23  
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The new master cylinder will get to me on Thurdsay, so I should have the how to up on Thursday night or Friday
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:08 AM
  #24  
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that sounds good man! also, let us know if you decide to keep your aftermarket line or if you're going to put back the stock + modulator line back. have fun!

RA4LIFE
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:49 AM
  #25  
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Never had a problem with mine I've been bypassed going on two years now. My slave went out when I first replaced my clutch to an oem excedy clutch and that is when I bypassed the modulator
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:53 AM
  #26  
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I don't understand how the RRM clutchline would be an issue with my clutch. If I am running a clutch that requires more pressure than stock, why the steel braided line cause an issue. I would think allowing more pressure into the clutch with the line would help me since it needs more pressure.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 12:46 PM
  #27  
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you're applying more pressure to the system, more rapidly with the stiffer PP springs and RRM bypass line...the weakest link will always fail...this time it was the master, like you said from that pointless inspection plate as i understand...next in line will fail next...i've been running the notorious ACT "clutch cylinder killer" with stock lines for over 60,000k/m with zero problems...including drag racing, autox, and road course...and ask RalliartN, i'm not gentle...

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Jul 8, 2013 at 12:51 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
you're applying more pressure to the system, more rapidly with the stiffer PP springs and RRM bypass line...the weakest link will always fail...this time it was the master, like you said from that pointless inspection plate as i understand...next in line will fail next...i've been running the notorious ACT "clutch cylinder killer" with stock lines for over 60,000k/m with zero problems...including drag racing, autox, and road course...and ask RalliartN, i'm not gentle...
lol +1...he's not gentle with his RA at all...i've been inside his car and trust me, DAT TURBO is awesome and not gentle...
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:14 PM
  #29  
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@zakdamunky: just a recommendation though, since the CMC failed shortly after you replaced your line with the RRM one, don't you think it MIGHT have something to do with it? i mean i think putting your stock line back and everything working well will eliminate that from the list of culprits. maybe down the road when your system has been working with zero problems, you can switch it to the RRM line again and see if it fails again. BUT if it fails WITH the stock line in, that means it's NOT the RRM line. sherlock holmes? just a thought...
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 07:12 AM
  #30  
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So getting this CMC out is almost as annoying as removing the rear motor mount. I've been at it for 4 hours or so at this point and it will not come out at all. I am about to take an angle grinder to this cmc and just cut the little ****** out.
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