Notices
04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

anybody else have clutch problems in the morning?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 21, 2004 | 05:23 AM
  #16  
quantum's Avatar
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: PA
lancerrallyart: I would check the level in the slave cyclindar also......thought i didn't really understand what you said.....if you need to "pump up" the clutch to get it working then there may be a leak or lack of fluid in there. If thats not what you were saing i"m sorry i just dont understand..
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2004 | 05:50 AM
  #17  
sillypuddy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by purecoda
warm the car up first, this is common to cars in general, manual or auto. not a problem, just part of owning a car (kinda like starting the engine in very cold weather).
in modern cars warming up in general is not a good idea

the engine is nice and hot while the rest of your drivetrain have no time to warm up.. that will lead to premature wear..

if you drive away slowly and evenly, everything warms up at the same time nice and easy

the problem i am experiencing requests warming up the tranny.. so your suggestion wont' help and will actaully make it worst

-joe
Reply
Old Jun 25, 2004 | 03:02 PM
  #18  
MitsuRalliArt's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
From: ATL
I don't care about uneven wear. Uneven wear is good. When the car aquires age, would you rather replace the entire drivetrain at once or one part at a time.

BTW, the transmission is bolted directly to the engine like almost every car on the planet. The only exception would be Corvettes and the like where the transmission is in the rear of the car. Warming the engine will warm the transmission. Use a block heater in cold climates. The drawbacks for a cold idle are incomplete combustion (the engine is cold and the combustions are not hot at idle). And emissions (the catalytic converter hasn't warmed up yet).
Reply
Old Jun 25, 2004 | 04:20 PM
  #19  
sillypuddy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
to each their own i guess

-joe
Reply
Old Nov 15, 2004 | 05:37 AM
  #20  
sillypuddy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
btw.. this problem TOTALLY went away after I replaced my restrictor with the RRM clutch line

-joe
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2004 | 01:03 AM
  #21  
Sheng_33's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Victoria,BC,Canada
no doubt warming up is the cure, but you're not warming up a car by letting it sit for minutes after you start the engine, the best is let ideal for 30 sec then go nice and slow for a while like 10 minutes without letting you powerplant rev above 3500 rpm
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2004 | 01:15 AM
  #22  
kondo's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: sacramento
mine went away because of the RRM line too.
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2004 | 04:14 AM
  #23  
sillypuddy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by Sheng_33
no doubt warming up is the cure, but you're not warming up a car by letting it sit for minutes after you start the engine, the best is let ideal for 30 sec then go nice and slow for a while like 10 minutes without letting you powerplant rev above 3500 rpm
if you been following ^^^^^ the thread, warming up doesn't make the problem go away and you end up burning up your clutch in the morning by reving up to 3500 on each 1-2-3 shift, anything under 3500 or so and the car bunny hops ..

the clutch line made the problem DISPAPPEAR and the restrictor is the root cause of this problem

-joe

Last edited by sillypuddy; Nov 16, 2004 at 05:16 AM.
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2004 | 06:20 AM
  #24  
bruce988jl's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (56)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,568
Likes: 1
From: Boston, MA
I'm definitely getting the RRM clutch line now.. looks like it solves a lot of problems and just brings the best out of the car and for 60$ (plus s/h) you can't get a better mod... other than say filling your motor mounts, which i gotta get to doing sometime soon...
Reply
Old Nov 16, 2004 | 07:27 PM
  #25  
pocoRA's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
From: Port Coquitlam, Canada
You could make it yourself for like 5 bucks.
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2004 | 06:05 AM
  #26  
sillypuddy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by pocoRA
You could make it yourself for like 5 bucks.
you could have made your RRM CAI for $40 CAD, your RRM exhaust for $250 CAD, the perches $35 CAD, rear tie bar for $50 CAD

what is your point? $5 haha, I doubt it.. you can't even get the fitting for $5

-joe
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2004 | 06:40 PM
  #27  
pocoRA's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
From: Port Coquitlam, Canada
Originally Posted by sillypuddy
you could have made your RRM CAI for $40 CAD, your RRM exhaust for $250 CAD, the perches $35 CAD, rear tie bar for $50 CAD

what is your point? $5 haha, I doubt it.. you can't even get the fitting for $5

-joe
well, I paid about that much for the RRM stuff I do have, and 5 bucks may be pushing it, but it would be considerably cheaper than the 100 dollars it would cost me to have RRM ship it to me.

You need to cheer up, and instead of trying to ridicule me, you could maybe say something constructive. Like what size the SS tubing is, and the exact fitting I need, and I'll tell you how much it costs me.

My point was to point out to people on a tight budget the simplicity and overall inexpensive alternative to paying a large amount of money for a mod that anyone with half a brain and a cpl hrs of free time could do themselves.

Last edited by pocoRA; Nov 17, 2004 at 06:49 PM.
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2004 | 08:11 PM
  #28  
sillypuddy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
i am not ridiculing you, you are being offensive with comments like "half a brain" etc

i don't know the size of the fitting and for things that i need to depend on, I rather buy the part than DIY (ie. that's why i don't make my own SS brake lines either)

it cost me $65 USD to my door when the dollar was way high and now it should be like a lot cheaper because the USD is down

-joe
Reply
Old Nov 18, 2004 | 09:14 PM
  #29  
pocoRA's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
From: Port Coquitlam, Canada
I apologize if I offended anyone with less than half a brain. you could probably do the clutch line yourself as well.

$65USD? were you not charged brokerage? doesnt RRM ship UPS?

Regardless, I will get around to doing one myself before next summer I will post it up in the DIY section when I get it done.
Reply
Old Nov 19, 2004 | 11:49 AM
  #30  
Myszkewicz's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,158
Likes: 6
From: Central Florida
Clutch lines and brake lines are the sort of thing I'd rather buy than make myself. If a DIY CAI breaks, no biggie, you're probably going to be fine. If you're cruising at 150 kph, and your brake lines fail when you need to stop, you're probably not going to make it.
Reply



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:37 AM.