The Official Ralliart NOOB Thread
I recently did a set for somebody. The original rubber bushing pulls off but leaves a metal bushing sleeve seized permanently around the pin. At first glance it might look like everything came off the pin but if your new stiff bushing doesn't slide on nicely then that bloody old sleeve is seized on and is in the way.
I used a die grinder with a carbide burr on it to just carve thru the old sleeve. Be careful, take your time, a small nick in the pin won't hurt it but be calm and patient and you can do it perfectly. After you think you have ground thru one side of the old metal sleeve completely, firmly hit on the now-exposed edge of the old sleeve with a slim chisel or screwdriver (tap the end of your chiselly thing with a hammer). This will bend the old sleeve back and you can pry it off the pin. If you cannot do this, check that you have cut all the way thru the old sleeve by grabbing the sleeve with a pair of pliers or vice-grips and spin it around on the pin - it has weakened and will move, and you will be able to tell if it's been cut thru - it might even slide up and off at this point.
Had to use this technique for both bushings.
If no grinder is around, use an electric drill or a dremel tool with a burr or small cutting wheel.
Once that old sleeve is off, the new bushing should slide on. It is a close sliding fit, and if your new bushing won't go on, feel the pin for a slight raised edge or nick. Stone it off or use some emery cloth or sandpaper to smooth it down. I had to do this.
Use lots of anti-seize on the new bushings.
Happy New Year!
I used a die grinder with a carbide burr on it to just carve thru the old sleeve. Be careful, take your time, a small nick in the pin won't hurt it but be calm and patient and you can do it perfectly. After you think you have ground thru one side of the old metal sleeve completely, firmly hit on the now-exposed edge of the old sleeve with a slim chisel or screwdriver (tap the end of your chiselly thing with a hammer). This will bend the old sleeve back and you can pry it off the pin. If you cannot do this, check that you have cut all the way thru the old sleeve by grabbing the sleeve with a pair of pliers or vice-grips and spin it around on the pin - it has weakened and will move, and you will be able to tell if it's been cut thru - it might even slide up and off at this point.
Had to use this technique for both bushings.
If no grinder is around, use an electric drill or a dremel tool with a burr or small cutting wheel.
Once that old sleeve is off, the new bushing should slide on. It is a close sliding fit, and if your new bushing won't go on, feel the pin for a slight raised edge or nick. Stone it off or use some emery cloth or sandpaper to smooth it down. I had to do this.
Use lots of anti-seize on the new bushings.
Happy New Year!
Last edited by RalliartN; Jan 1, 2013 at 09:52 AM.
i hate to do this. i mean REALLY hate to do this. but does anyone know of a tuner that can flash my ecu by the end of the month? i wanted hackish to do it but i need to pass emissions and i havent heard from him yet. im in wisconsin so i was thinking about boosin performance in chicago? i know they do evo stuff but im not sure about RA
i hate to do this. i mean REALLY hate to do this. but does anyone know of a tuner that can flash my ecu by the end of the month? i wanted hackish to do it but i need to pass emissions and i havent heard from him yet. im in wisconsin so i was thinking about boosin performance in chicago? i know they do evo stuff but im not sure about RA
its the code for a defective catalytic converter. i got rid of my when i did the new down pipe. and i heard he could stop the code from appearing. i cleared the code but it keeps coming back and you cant pass with a CEL on.






