Hey guys, i know there are tons of posts about the clutchline that RRM makes. But this one is a bit different than your average one. Well i'm looking to know if you can actually see the replacement clutchline after you install it? Why? don't ask.. just a precaution with my dealer.. They write down everything i do, they wrote down my muffler tip, yes the tip, when i drove by the place once... And i just wanted to know if you could see it visibly if you just opened up the hood to look into the engine... Thanks guys
-Lee

 

Yeah, you'd be able to see it. It replaces that hard line and eliminates the modulator, so the mod would stand out to any mechanic.

 

If you are smart and put your factory air box back in before you go in for regular maintinance then I cant see any reason why a tech would notice a ss clutchline or anything else that is under the box.

I read too many posts of people getting work denied because they were too lazy to change out their easily visible mods. It takes 15 minutes to put my stock air box back in and saves me a lot of headaches. I also know that if I ever have to have work done on my trans i will be spending a few hours taking out my shifter, bushings, and clutchline. You gotta pay to play and if you get caught you can lose your warranty, right or wrong.

Same thing goes for stuff like the piggyback ecu. If you take the extra time and hide it up behind the console with some double sided velcro then no one will ever see it unless they are looking for it.

 

Yea, i'm getting the B&M Shortshifter installed with the clutchline, it's just that i don't know how to bleed. But i probably can remove and install the Short Shifter on my own. Is it true, in order to install the short shifter you have to cut up the plastic part of the plastic mechanism that holds the shifter into the car?

 

From the shop manual, here is the clutch master cylendar removal steps. which line (by number?) are we replacing? Here are the steps

CLUTCH MASTER
CYLINDER REMOVAL STEPS
1.CLEVIS PIN ASSEMBLY
2.EYE BOLT
3.GASKET
4.RESERVOIR HOSE
5.CLEVIS PIN AND PUSHROD ASSEMBLY CONNECTING PART
6.CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
7.SEALER
8.RETAINER PLATE
CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER REMOVAL STEPS
10.CLUTCH PIPE <4G94 ENGINE>
11.CLUTCH PIPE AND CLUTCH ORIFICE ASSEMBLY <4G69 ENGINE>
12.CLUTCH PIPE <4G69 ENGINE>
13.CLUTCH ORIFICE ASSEMBLY <4G69 ENGINE>
14.CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER
CLUTCH LINE REMOVAL STEPS
9.CLUTCH HOSE
10.CLUTCH PIPE <4G94 ENGINE>
12.CLUTCH PIPE <4G69 ENGINE>

see the pic to see what each number reps. I think we are talking about part #9.

 

on that picture it would be line 12 and 13

I have a kit available for 20 bucks altho its not SS..

Tory

 

hm... looks like i'm just gonna have my shop do it for me, i'll just watch while they do it so i learn for future reference...

 

It's really not hard. I would write up the directions but there were 2 or 3 really good posts with directions about a month ago on this board. Do a search

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

 

true... but i don't have the tools to do it, and i have access to a garage, so i might as well just bring it down there and work on it with my friend. He knows how to do that stuff, and i'm sure he'd love to teach me.. haha

 

I see some guys mentioning removing their shortshifter before going into service, why? I don't see how a shortshifter could at all threaten your warranty, unless you crack the shifter base or something.

 

if u have any clutch problems at all (even discs) they will try to blame it on the shifter or anything else u have....even though the plates never touch until the shifter is in position..... mitsu is out of $$ and look for any reason to void ur warranty. if u fight it, u would win, but that aint free. may as well replace whatever wears urself and they know this (IE: new plate and install = $1500. Lawyer = $2000. why bother). funny though, most of their popular marketing/advertising appeals to the tunner crowds, but they totaly shun them when it comes down to it (IE: buying the top car spots in F&F2).

they make good cars, but I wouldnt buy one if I wanted to depend on the warranty

 

your not allowed to modify the shifter throw cause it puts stress on differnt parts of your tranny so theyll void your warrenty, My dealer is umm they oculd care less my car is turboed and if I blow the motor i get a new one for free lol so just find a diff dealer ppl

Tory

 

So does this SS clutchline wear out your clutch more? Like am I gonna have to replace my clutch later on down the road cause of it? I am gonna order it within the week and I wasnt sure how it worked.

 

well actually in theory if anyhting it should make it last longer since the clutch wouldnt be slipping for as long

Tory

 

you will see it. but you could cover it...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=111833