May I remind everybody the price of the Fram filters and the price of the competition, I can buy a Fram Tough Guard for $4 (for our car) that only had cardboard endcaps as a shortcoming, or I can pay close to $12 (Amsoil, Mobile-1) for other filters.

One thing that article didn't cover is the density of the fibers, the tough guard filters some small stuff.

 

i use synthetic and i still change mine at 4000km..

-joe

 

Very enlightening, gang. I have read numerous tests, including the links you guys provided, where some guy cuts open filters, sees the Fram has paper end caps, and says this filter is junk. Then everyone says Fram's are junk. Again, I'm sold on the hype, but I'm trying to find the test that states that due to the Fram's build construction, "X" damage occurred as a result. I don't think it exists. I would never want to keep one in a Porsche or Audi with a 10 to 20K OCI, but for the guy with the Lancer ES and a 3750 Mi. OCI, I don't think there's any harm. Just because something looks chinsey, doesn't mean it's not going to get the job done. Heck, look at the lunar module they landed on the moon. Looks like Jiffy Pop is supposed to come out of that thing. This question I posed was out of complete curiousity only. Many people have empirical data, and that is great, and is appreciated. Thanks again. Joe.

 

Theres a known problem with engine ticking coming from the lifters from what I've heard. Mine started right after I took my car to Jiffy lube and they used a normal filter. I'll always go back to mitsu. If you do the change yourself, at least get a factory filter.

 

<-- only uses factory filter

if you buy a case (12 in a case i think), you can get a discount from the parts guy (i get mine at jobber rate)

-joe

 

I use Puralator until I run low on funds, ie buy Fram. Also, I don't believe the manufacturer's hype of creating better fluids or filters. We don't call the dealership SATAN for nothing from experience in the service or parts department.

As for syth oil, I used to use Mobil 1 a lot, but I went to Vavoline for lesser price and doing the same or better job.

 

Be careful, I haven't researched Vavoline, but some a$$holes like castrol aren't even true synthetic. I don't care to go into detail, but it's the truth.

 

mitsuralliart.. why do you have to insult people when you are expressing your OPINION.. there is no need to call people a$$holes..

you should learn to research your facts before you open your mouth next time..

yes it's true that castrol didn't use a fully synthetic stock.. and mobil 1 went public with that fact.. after the court ruling (in castrol favor no less), all the other manufacturers, including mobil 1, have silently moved to using the SAME non synthetic stock..

if you go to the "way back machine" (internet achives).. you will see that mobil 1 used to list in their FAQ that they were the only TRUE synethic stock out there.. then suddenly in the last year or two, they CHANGED the site.. now it doesn't even mention that "fact" any more..

WHY? because they have cop out and switch too.. so stop your whining.. unless you are going with Redline or something specialized.. you are still using synthetic made with non-synthetic stock..

-joe

 

http://www.lube4u.com/Articles/AMSOI...0and%20PAO.htm

-joe

 

Guys, let's not get fired up. Does anyone know the Mitsu part # for our oil filter? I will be changing my oil with conventional at 3750 mi. then switching to Amsoil with 7K intervals at 7000 mi. Thanks. Joe.

Other question: I imagine factory fill for Ralliarts is dino oil. Anyone know for sure?

Last question: Oil capacity with filter change?

 

hey joe, do you do lots of driving? cuz the warranty is 7,500 or 6 months whichever occurrs first. and the part number for our stock filters is MZ69072

 

From personal experience, I don't use Castrol for anything, except for the lawnmower.

Long ago, I used to use Mobil 1 fully syth all the time from 0w40 (rev a bit faster and didn't care for the lifter noise) to 10w40 to blended them a bit (no evidence of any adverse effect). As my yearly mileage rose from 18 to 23 to 26,000 miles a year, my interval of changing oil became 3.5 to 4 or 6 freaking weeks. Time and expense were KILLING me.

I had to change. I opened my valve cover and remembered the varnish color on the cam (light honey and non-scientific w/ no any grit whatso ever). At the time, my Mitsu was beyond 65000, and I switched to Valvoline durablend. Then, I went to 33000 miles in a year and checked for any increased varnish level. Nope . . . stayed about the same. Of course, my car was then over +101K miles within 4.5 years before its untimely demise from a full size dodge truck.

 

Here are some stuff that I had learned from the 240sx guys.

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/old_filters.shtml
oil filter test (brands from the US, Canada to Japan)

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=74226
smoking from synthetic oil? I had the problem with my +125K mileage S13; then again, others don't experience it.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=62633
Techno babble

http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbi...oil_bible.html
More techno babble

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=48970
opinions

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=39271
techno babble article

BTW: I don't believe in the mantra "the sky will fall if you don't use Mobil 1 or any of its syth stuff" nor the hype about toasted motors from oil itself (the days of the 80's are gone).

 

Someone else please corroborate the correct Mitsubishi Oil Filter part number for the Ralliart. I just put mine on ramps today to check underneath, and my factory filter part number is MD136466.

PS It looks like it's real easy to change, with the vertical filter and all. Probably do it without spilling a drop.

Joe.

 

they have switch over to a "shorty" style filter since i got my first batch.. they told me they are interchangable

-joe