Brake Shudder
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Brake Shudder
I know this happens on all cars but I've had my RA for a year now and have about 30k on it. I'm getting very noticable shudder breaking from high speeds down to about 55 mph.
Are my rotors warped and if so, can they be turned down?
Also, does anybody make a complete brake kit yet?
Are my rotors warped and if so, can they be turned down?
Also, does anybody make a complete brake kit yet?
#2
I had this problem when I got to around 12K. I mentioned it at one of my maintenance checks and they "turned" my rotors. I don't really know what that means but it sure helped, my braking is smooth as butter. I don't think it's a warping issue though, if you are still under warranty you might as well have them check it.
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It usually does have to do with warping of the rotors. They can become warped in numerous ways, usually from excessive temperature differentials. Turning is when they mill the surface flat again.
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Originally Posted by shiroboi
I know this happens on all cars but I've had my RA for a year now and have about 30k on it. I'm getting very noticable shudder breaking from high speeds down to about 55 mph.
Are my rotors warped and if so, can they be turned down?
Also, does anybody make a complete brake kit yet?
Are my rotors warped and if so, can they be turned down?
Also, does anybody make a complete brake kit yet?
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Originally Posted by EVOL 8
good question....but you would need rims to clear them then.
im running 18's with 215/45 rubber that should be big enough, shouldn't it?
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I'll give the dealer a call but do you think they'd cover it outside the normal 1 year, everything is covered period?
Edit: just called the dealer, they said they would cover it if I still had half of my brake pads left but they said with my milage its really border line. If not, they charge 220 for a brake job. I should probably have mitsu check it for me and see if it can be done for free.
I feel like 220 is expensive. I've had rotors turned for much cheaper before.
Edit: just called the dealer, they said they would cover it if I still had half of my brake pads left but they said with my milage its really border line. If not, they charge 220 for a brake job. I should probably have mitsu check it for me and see if it can be done for free.
I feel like 220 is expensive. I've had rotors turned for much cheaper before.
Last edited by shiroboi; May 5, 2005 at 02:08 PM.
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I've got around 40K on mine, and I've got the shudder too. I have squeak too, so my pads are shot. I'm going in tomorrow to have everything inspected (I've got some squeaking/clunking/popping coming from the rear suspension as well)...I'm sure the rotors will need to be turned.
#10
Originally Posted by mitsurally
im running 18's with 215/45 rubber that should be big enough, shouldn't it?
2 general reasons for shuddering/vibrating brakes.
1. Warped rotor. Too much heat, or a really hard brake and then a STOP for awhile. The hot pads keep one part of the rotor really hot while the rest cools.
2. Pad deposit. Same reason as #1. Some pad material is burned/attached onto the rotor, the pad grabs this part of the rotor harder than the rest of it.
Turning the rotors fixes both problems, but after turning, the rotors are thinner so they will warp even easier.
I avoid warping by doing 2 things. If I brake really hard, I slow down well before the stop line/car ahead and creep slowly up to it, cool the pads on the whole rotor. Then I put it in neutral and get off the brakes.
You can have the rotors almost glowing with heat and they won't warp, IF they are cooled off evenly while driving. If you know the brakes are THAT hot, don't stop at all, keep driving for a few minutes.
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About the brembo idea, I would not do it. You will spend a whole lot of money and sure you can stop faster but you will have even more rotating mass and your car will be even more sluggish. Our stock breaks are good. They are even better then the brembo upgrade that is offered on the nissan spec-v. Just take care of them and they will take care of you. If you do want to upgrade, just get the RRM break pads and do what they said above with cooling the breaks.
#14
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i would get them ground. sounds like a slight warp in the front. I know the PA turnpike can be a bear. what part do you drive? around donigal to harrisburg is the worst! 75mph at 10degress + a pothole and brakes doesnt do much good, especially when the rotors are already about 200 degrees! go to pep boys or autozone and have them ground. cheap fix. as for a brake upgrade, i suggest you wait a bit longer until some options open up. i dont think you will have to wait long