No, I meant to take that line out, you are correct. I was trying to think the setup outloud and I forgot to remove that line. It will give you a reading based on the easy setup that you have to do. You enter vehicle weight, configure RPM's (if you get a reading), enter in the vehicle redline, and allow the unit to self level (on a flat even surface) and then you are good to go. Then if you say want to do a horsepower pull, you push the ok button and then it stages, the light's blink and then you just launch. You don't have to launch hard, just launch enough to shift the g's from neutral to verticle (acceleration) and when you want to stop or after a 1/4 mile, you just slow down, let off the gas and it will automatically stop recording the run, store it, and begin displaying the results. The screen will show you your hp/tq bands, and you can move along the band to see horsepower and torque at a specific point in the run, but it automatically displays your high points for both. If you are driving and you want to do a rolling start or freeway 50 to 70/ 50 to 100 etc.. you just press ok and go. Sorry for the false info in the post above, but you were correct that you don't key in your hp.

 

I would assume the Gtech to be better, but I can't say, I've never seen or used the bell models.

 

awesome, this thing sounds real cool, but heres my laundry list of questions...

1. how accurate is this thing hp wise AND 1/4mile wise?
2. does it read crank hp or wheel hp
3. what did it say ur stock hp/whp was?

thanks alot, if i like the answers to these questions, i'll probly buy one soon

 

It's very cool, but you're not understanding my answers to your questions. I'll try again:

1 HOW ACCURATE IS THIS THING HP WISE and 1/4 MILE WISE?
The Gtech is only as accurate as you program it. If you don't take the time to program it properly ie: enter the correct vehicle weight, and level it properly. That will throw off the results. It works on g's, if you enter in your vehicle in as heavier than the actual vehicle weight, it doesn't know that you did, so it will read higher than actual hp ratings. If you enter lower weight, then it will read lower than actual hp, because you should get from a to b faster if you have a lighter car than faster car (Math, something I'm not to good at) there are many mathematical equations that it uses to calculate the numbers. Go to their website and they have a video to show how accurate the unit is. (http://www.gtechpro.com/test.html) Copy and paste that link in there and watch the video and that will show how accurate it is if correctly programmed.

2 does it read crank hp or wheel hp

It displays wheel hp after every elemental reduction that can exist is removed from the equation. IE tire friction, drag, drivetrain loss, in reality it displays the actual hp you would put down if you went and ran on the track.

3 what did it say ur stock hp/whp was?

Unfortunately for everyone, I never really used the unit hence the reason I'm trying to sell it, I bought it with the intention of puting it to good use and modding my car further than where I am after two years of ownership, and I have come to a point when I really can't afford to do that. I figure if I'm not going to use it, I should sell it to someone who will. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask, I'm full of answers, but some I never tried. Remember as well, this unit will do more than just hp/tq, it's really robust, but you have to get into the manual and read up on how to do everything. The 1/4 mile hp/tq pulls are very easy to do, but there is so much more that you can do with it if you take the time to read into it.

 

All you need is weight of vehicle with you in it. Go to any truck weigh scale when they are not in use and weigh your vehicle. My vehilce weight with me, is 2915lbs. I think the Tag on the car is much higher using GVW. I do not see how an underdrive pulley will effect it at all. It takes a reading through the lighter, the Rpm will be right even if you went smaller with the pulley than U/D. It reads actual vehicle hp/tq not a controlled environment like a dyno. You have factors like wind, small inclines and declines in the road. If you are on level ground the readings are very accurate, i have done many passes with it and they are all with in tenths of a second of each other. just remember to do the runs on the same stretch of track to keep them accurate. I ran a best of 15.303 @ 90.9, my previous best was 15.370 @ 90.76.

 

very interested in this... i'll probly buy one in a month or so like i said... ralliart@pdx.. u actually have this same unit in your ralliart? or was it hooked up to a different car... just wondering if it does work perfect w/ our ralliart... i dont wanna buy a part thats works best with hondas, and only "decent" on other imports.

 

The G-tech pro Is a completely stand alone universal unit. There are currently 2 models i know of. The street version w/o pc port and Road race features, and the RR model (Road Race). Gives you a pc port hookup to compare runs and data on your PC and more G's mapping while driving a course. I have used this in my ralliart and my 72' Chev p/u. The only hassle was setup, the getting of acual weight of car and NOTthe GVW sticker on door. The RPM senseing works great, it may take a few times to get it accurate but once you do it stores it perminently for your car until reprogrammed for a different vehicle. You can use it another vehicle w/o loosing your data or setup, it allows a few different vehicle setups to be stored just not your RPM settings. This tool is best used to measure preformance numbers 60ft, 1/4, 1/8,braking, g's. Not that the HP and TQ numbers are wrong they are accurate if you follow the directions, check the gtech website Faq and support i found alot of help their. I enjoy my G-tech

 

good stuff

 

I have one too the only thing is that you have to make the run on a level track if you want the most accurate reading of your hp. I havent tryed it on my lancer yet.

 

Ralliart@PDX, thanks for the supporting information.