Hmmm....never thought about trying to get an AT RA down to the high 14's.
I say lighten everything up like others have said, bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors, P&P intake manifold, intake, exhaust, header, DP, UDP, bore out the fuel rail, piggyback ECU, and consider Nitrous.

But since you seem to want the car to still be your daily driver and reliable, then the N2O is probably out unless you know what you are doing. Sometimes you can't have your cake and eat it too.

Sorry I don't have an AT....so I hope you don't b!tch at me for not posting a time or not helping you like you want. All of my information is pure speculation......good luck.

 

Now that I've recieved some good feedback and suggestions, I can narrow down what I think I'm going to do and see if anybody thinks I can achieve the time I want based on the mods I'm considering. While I won't know for certain what's possible until I track my car and maybe even then, not until I mod it, I think I've got a pretty good idea on my upgrade path.

Because my budget is limited on this go around, I can't afford to get everything. A torque converter really isn't something theisable right now, nobody makes a RA specific application, and I'm not about to enlist the help of JPO (in CA) or Level 10 (NJ) to install a mod that has an unknown effect on my car.

And LSD is really not necessary for my car unless I do strap on a power adder or shave the block, since the entire weight difference between the automatic and the manual sits directly over the drive wheels. Tires are going to help me a whole lot more right now then an LSD.

I think the rims are a good idea, so I have to either get rid of the piggyback, exaust MF/DP, or intake MF. For comparison's sake, I'll take off the intake MF for reasons stated below, but I'd be interested in additional suggestions for which to choose.

Stripping my car is not an option. My car is not going to be a track car, and I don't have the money to replace the hood, trunk, and quarterpanels with fiberglass and have them repainted. I live in florida so AC is a must, and I don't like lightweight racing seats. I want my airbags.

I would consider porting the TB, but unlike most people, I consider this actual engine modification, along with porting the intake manifold. Sure, they're (realatively) easy mods, but I consider this kind of work to be sqeezing the maximum potential out of your existing configuration, not actually improving the configuration you already have. I really want to know what I have to work with in bolt ons before I start grinding stuff away with a dremel.

For the moment, let's assume that my car runs a 16.4 quarter mile on bare stock configuration. If I run the following mods:

Rota Slipstream 16x7 (-10 lbs per rim) wearing either BFG g-Force Sport, Kuhmo ECTSA 712 (Ultra high-performance summer tires on tirerack) or ECTSA ATX (Ultra High Performance All-Season)

My RRM SRI
Replacing the rubber hose from my SRI to my TB with a metal pipe
Thermal taping the crap out of everything, PR_Mivec style
RRM Piggyback on stock 89 tune
RRM underdrive pulley
RRM's header/downpipe kit with a high-flow cat (tested out w/o high flow cat at +14/17HP), assuming it's released within the next month or two.

This looks to me to add, automatic corrected, of around 22HP (4 on the CAI, 10 on the header/dp, 8 on the piggyback), and freeing up another 4HP on the pulley plus an unknown amount on the rims (unknown to me at least), and some level of improved traction. Would I be able to get a 1/4 mile at 15.5-15.59 without additional modifications?

 

That sounds like a pretty good plan to me. I have about the same goal for my car but don't really ever plan on racing it. I just want to improve apon what I already have.

I can tell you that the stock tires on mine would loose traction alot, but the new Falken's have not slipped at all since I put them on a week ago.

The Injen CAI I just put on yesterday and it is too soon to tell how much it has changed. What I was surprised about was how much louder my car is with just the CAI.

Good luck with your quest for power on the auto and keep us informed.

Mods
18" MSR 105's
Falken 512's 215/35/18
Injen CAI for Automatic (Part#RD1834P)
Vortex Generator

Coming Soon
Under drive pulley
Piggyback ECU
Lower tie bar

 

I have no idea with just bolt-ons if you could get to the mid 15's. If I were to guess, you might get close (assuming the 16.4 stock guess is correct), but realistically I think the bolt ons will get you to the high 15's. You could improve on this just with seat time and multiple runs to find the "sweet spot" of the launch and improve your reaction time.
Tires are a good move....I believe traction will be the biggest issue with the AT, since you can't "feather" a clutch like us MT guys to make up for traction issues(some call it slipping the clutch, I call it feathering).
Let us know how it works out....seems like you have made up your mind on the direction you are taking.

 

Closing this. The question has been answered. Later today, when I have some time, I'll go through and delete all the BS that doesn't answer the question.

 

BS deleted.