injen hydrobag
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injen hydrobag
i know it goes over the filter to help prevent water into the engine.
anyone ever try this instead of the aem bypass valve?
if so i'm guessing you use the same if not more power.....?
lastly it looks like it may be better then the aem bypass valve only b/c it be real easy to take on and off so the hp theres on the nice days, and your staying dry on the wet ones.
anyone ever try this instead of the aem bypass valve?
if so i'm guessing you use the same if not more power.....?
lastly it looks like it may be better then the aem bypass valve only b/c it be real easy to take on and off so the hp theres on the nice days, and your staying dry on the wet ones.
well now i find this. its not hydrolock proof so u still need a bypass valve
http://www.autoanything.com/hitch-be...A2582A0A0.aspx
http://www.autoanything.com/hitch-be...A2582A0A0.aspx
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Is it really that big of a deal? From what I understand, hydrolock only occurs when submerging the pipe under water... that means you would be driving through water deeper than your front bumper. I dont know about anyone else, but I generally avoid that much water with a car.
1. Accidents happen.
2. If you do have a horsepower loss from the bypass valve, it's minimal.
3. Bypass valves are pretty easy to install, depending on your type of intake. All you need is a hacksaw (I recommend around 22 teeth per inch. 18 makes it hard to cut) and a few minutes. Everything else comes with the valve. You just install the valve between the upper and lower section of your intake if you have an AEM or if you have the Injen, anywhere up near the top end of the intake.
Btw, you can't take it out once it's in unless you get a long coupler, about 5 inches or so to cover the hole where the bypass valve goes. If I think about it this weekend I'll take a picture with the valve on and valve off.
2. If you do have a horsepower loss from the bypass valve, it's minimal.
3. Bypass valves are pretty easy to install, depending on your type of intake. All you need is a hacksaw (I recommend around 22 teeth per inch. 18 makes it hard to cut) and a few minutes. Everything else comes with the valve. You just install the valve between the upper and lower section of your intake if you have an AEM or if you have the Injen, anywhere up near the top end of the intake.
Btw, you can't take it out once it's in unless you get a long coupler, about 5 inches or so to cover the hole where the bypass valve goes. If I think about it this weekend I'll take a picture with the valve on and valve off.
Last edited by ralliart2k4; May 26, 2006 at 11:02 AM.
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my intake is already a 2pc. one of the reasons i chose it. but i have gone into a puddle only to find it deeper then i thought.
I want to remove it though b/c i take the car to local shows and i don't like the way it looks. that and you want the power on track days
I want to remove it though b/c i take the car to local shows and i don't like the way it looks. that and you want the power on track days
Even if it is already a 2 piece, you may still have to cut a little off of one side or each side to make it fit. I think I had to cut 1.5 or 1.75 inches off of one side because the gap is like 2 inches normally and the bypass filter is 4.5 inches thick. (estimations) There should be a little coupler cuff that connects the top and bottom halves. The bypass valve replaces that piece. I think Ralli04Art has a partially injen intake and an AEM bypass so he may be able to give a better description. As far as power goes, there's no noticeable difference between my car with the CAI & bypass and my buddy's with SRI, with the exception of the fact that I suck at launching.



. sorry for not being more clear.