I've just recently installed the p&p IM and had that little heating problem it got fixed, then the next night i went to the track to test it, but only made two runs (everything went fine ) the next morning (today) the car felt when starting like it had no power to turn on and while driving, it made some pulls like when you take off the clutch fast when changing gears, then i got back to my house. later on wanted to turn it on it wouldn't, i got the battery check and it was the battery it was putting out 4.2 volts got it change and it turn on nicely, then I when to pick up my girlfriend and it made that same pull but less weaker and when is at idle it wants to turn off like if it had cam shaft and it turned off a couple of times i had to hit the gas to keep it at high rpms, that got me worried maybe it could be something me and my friend put wrong don't know

The only change I made is that hose trick the supply line that goes to the throttle i put it directly to where the return line goes in the thermostat, please correct me if im doing something wrong this is my daily driving

Any one had the same problem or similar that can help?

 

Use the edit button instead of adding a new post for each thought.

First off, I'd check and make sure you reconnected everything electrical. Second, have your alternator tested. If your battery was only putting out 4 volts, then something is wrong with your electrical system.

 

Sorry..

but i change the battery

 

But you need to get your alternator checked. If your battery was dying, and you charged it, and it's dying again, then the battery isn't getting charged while the car is running. Something is either disconnected (check the fuse on the positive battery terminal) or the alternator isn't putting out.

 

That is not the only "hose trick" that was done....

 

Why would you swap the supply and return line on the throttle body?

 

Yes, that was the only hose trick

I didn't swap them I took off the return line and put the supply where the return line used to be (on the thermostat) so hot water wouldn't pass trough the throttle that heats the air coming in. To complete the cycle with out the water passing through the throttle.

If i'm wrong then correct me.

thanks

 

I got the lines from RRM too but don't know if they will cause any problems they sure fit the caliper but the hard line is another story.

 

Another thing that i tested was that if I disconnect the battery and plug it back the car starts just fine and runes fine but after i run it for a little while it starts again with the pulls and shutting off

 

When you disconnect the battery and then reconnect it you are affectively resetting the ECU... this is why it will start fine after doing this and then start to go into safe mode - I am guessing that you have a CEL/SES light coming onto the dash...

I am wondering seeing as you are using a charged battery that it maybe as Otter has stated that the alternator maybe not connect or you have blown a fuse failing that I would look back at the plenum chamber and see that the small vaccumm tubes at the rear of the chamber have not come off and is causing a leak also check you maf sensor that this is still intact and connected correctly

 

could you explain that in more detail plz

 

when you disconnect the battery and then reconnect it you are in some small way re setting the factory ECU so when you reconnect the factory ECU reverts back to a stock setting which is why you are able to get the car started again for a short amount of time possibly only 15 minutes worth of running depending on what the main problem is... this is why you can start the car after reconnecting it...


sorry plenum chamber = intake manifold... check that behind the manifold all the rubber hoses are all connected correctly

also did you mess around with the butterfly on the throttle body this could be too lose or too tight and is not able to open and close as it should - but this I doubt if this is the problem

check in the fuse box in the engine bay for the alternator fuse and see if it is ok

 

well some of the earlier posts in this thread make reference to the battery and ECU reset but in the removal/install of the IM there are a hell of a lot of sensors to to be plugged out some of which were:
-MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR
-KNOCK SENSOR CONNECTOR
-EVAPORATIVE EMISSION PURGE SOLENOID VALVE CONNECTOR


also would the replacement of a ground cable cause any trouble in this situation

edit: by replacement i mean moving it from the original place to another

 

Yes it could. Did you tested if there was good groung in the new location??? is the CEL on??if it is Autozone will scan it for you or you can ring me, i have one. glitv have my cel number. BTW how did it go in the track???

 

Nope didn't test the ground but I got the alternator check and it was fine. They scan it and found that there was low circuit on the maf sernsor or vaf sensor. some relieve but not relieve at all cuz i don't know how much is it but it should be expensive. and thet dealer that i go to is full and they can't help me until friday or next week.