hey,
recalculating time and money constraints, a turbo setup is not economical for me at the moment, so im going to go NA for a while
(please dont say dont and save, coz its not just for a few weeks or months, looking at 2009-2010 till it will be good for me, and even then i may just upgrade to the new RA)

so anyways, what i, looking at doing is RPW's 4-1 41mm headers, HFC and Catback exhaust(custom 2.25") and a piggy

im looking at RRM's piggy b/c it seems most economical for my situation

what i need help on is:
do i get the headers-exhaust first then PB
or PB first then Headers
(note these may be installed a month or more apart)
or just wait till i have then all at once

also with the RRM PB, IIRC it doesnt need to be tuned?

umm i think that is it for now, ill add if i forgot n e thing
also current mods are: SRI, UDP


ALSO @ MITVRX, IIRC the headers throw a code, so ill prolly get cel elim for RRM at the same time, did u want in(and any other AUSSIES?)

thanks
-Steven

 

You prolly won't like this idea, but in my mind it is the thing to do. Take any money you've got saved up and over the next couple years save up money and invest or just leave it in the bank to collect interest. Give it a few years and you give yourself three solid options; mod your RA, sell your RA and get a little more expensive car with the money saved [evo, etc...], or keep your RA and you've got money saved up for other stuff; rent, mortgage, food, vacation, buying a kangaroo... just playing. good luck either way and anyways i'm only 18 what do i know.

 

^ yeah i know what u mean, but i just got a bit back from the tax office and want a lil more out of the DD, im gonna keep all the stock parts, and should get a fair bit back when i part out, just want more now
im only 19 btw, and already have 4 kangaroos so i think that is enuf

 

I was thinking of getting the CEL Eliminator. The CEL is starting to annoy me. Especially if a cop pulls up besides me and sees my CEL light on. Uh oh..

Probably look at getting a whole new Header and full CBE. PM me if you're interested.

 

yeah, get the electronic simulator though, or you are wasting your time.

stevo, you should always have the piggyback tuned to your mods, for power and safety. it doesn't matter what order you do it in either, so long as you don't mind losing a little of your gains by not having the vehicle untuned for a bit. buying the piggyback and having your car tuned will produce immediate results, so will the headers. do you want to tune twice though...


you don't want to buy my kit? 1600USD, I am sure we can work something out on shipping. PM me or post in my thread, this is your thread /end shameless plug.

 

yeah ur kit is nice, but still there is more reliability in NA for me ATM
turbo would be awesome, but i dont have the time or money if something were to go wrong

with the RRM piggy, i thought it learnt itself, thats why it didnt need a tune?
(i thought for eg, that stock we run rich by 5%, and the piggy alters the signals to lower fuel input by 5%(just an example/theory))
or does it still need to be dynoed. if so i may just get a local shop to set me up with one of there systems

MIT- pm on the way

 

yes, you should contact someone local then. All fuel controllers using a MAF signal require tuning.

Edit: all fuel controllers not using a wideband sensor input (lamda tuning) for both closed loop and open loop ECU operation will require tuning.

 

Leave the piggy for last and save some dough for tuning it when you finally install it...dont do like me, just installing it and going my merry way...that was a 15 hp cost

Tune it and intead of a 15 hp loss you can have a 10 to 15 hp gain...but what do I know, I dont have mine anymore

 

exactly.

Installing a piggyback with a "base" tune is a bad idea. there are too many variables to account for when creating a base tune, and your conditions may be so different from the tuners intentions that you create an unsafe condition for your engine to operate under. in that case, the ECU will do whatever it can to compensate, which potentially could cause a loss of power or even a blown engine.

a base tune is precisely that, a base to build upon. you don't lay the foundation to the house and move right in, you need to build upon the base before it is usable. if the RRM piggy didn't come with a base tune your final tuning would take quite a bit longer, and therefor cost quite a bit more. I would estimate at least an hour of additional dyno time. stay off the inertia dyno for tuning, they are for reference numbers or research only. no load on the dyno means when you get out on the street and actually load the engine you will not have the same results. eddy current dynos FTW